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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well my Ford Muscle spec c4 managed to live a rugged 4 days before I lost all forward gears and reverse during a wot 1-2 shift when something "let go". Tear down showed my PA hardened input shaft to still be in perfect condition, and my forward drum splines completely stripped and cracked to all the jelly bean holes. I imagine it cracked, expanded, and then stripped the splines.

Just want to put this out there and advise any people building their's now to spring for the solid forward drum! Don't believe the hype of 8 second cars using stock drums and not having problems. Some people might get away with it but it isn't worth the risk....unless you like pulling trannies. My drum was a low mileage c5 drum that I had carefully inspected for cracks and fit nice and tight on the input shaft.

So, has anyone used the TCI "Reinforced" forward drum with the steel insert? (about 3/4's of the way down)

http://www.tciauto.com/ford/ford_c4_c6.htm

Also, has anyone gernaded a welded/brazed solid forward drum?

On a similiar note, Dynamic's fully rollerized 6 gear planetary is a few bucks less than PA's stock thrust washered 6 gear planetary.

Troy
 

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Mmm that drum looks interesting.I'd like to see a pic.Maybe they machine the holes off and press a slleve.Sounds a good idea.

I have heard that any time a aftermarket input shaft is fitted that the drum becomes the weak link but in saying that there has been plenty of evidence that these drums and aftermarket shafts work ok too.
Every C4 i have done with an aftermarket input i have mig welded and machined.Never had a failure yet.I have used several PA shafts and planet sets also. I haven't heard of any failures of welded drums.
 

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Got to agree with you Greg. The welding of the holes appears to really help the drums....shrinks the metal and gets the spline tight on the shaft as well.
Though you do hear of afew with stripped splines (mainly using short output and stripping the planetary splines), once welded the forward drums don't appear to be a major issue but I guess when you are getting into the upper hp region....the reinforced drum may be needed.
 

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Mine just cracked and stripped out this weekend. What did you do to resolve your problem? Did you get the TCI drum and how many clutches does this hold?
 

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If anyone needs a welded up and machined C4 drum with torrington bearings I have a few extra . $90 plus exchange of your old drum. Includes both races and needle bearing set, peanuts welded and machined to spec, hole drilled through for oiling and relieved for the bearing lube. ready to run with your cltuches and internals .

Sorry to post this on the forum and not the for sale board but it seemed like somebody might need one. I have one C5 drum too if anyone needs one. I hear you can fit extra clutches in those. I use the c4 and get 6 in the easy. Could probably go to 7 with thinner steels.

[email protected]

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438 inch Dart block Windsor, AFR 225 heads, 271/[email protected]" on 106 solid roller, 13:1 compression, Super Victor, crank trigger, 950 HP carb, external wet sump oiling, reverse manual C4, 4000 stall, 4.10 Dana 60, Nitrous. Street '68 Cougar. 315/60/15 MT's

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: chipmechanic on 6/20/06 11:41am ]</font>
 

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Hey that sounds a good deal.Any pics?? I can post them if you like if so.

Question time.What bearing are you using and how do you get 6 clutches in there without thin steels??
 

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The needle bearing and cage set is a mcmaster carr item #5909K42. I dont have the part number on the races though . I get them from a local bearing place called applied industrial but theyre just standard .126" thick 1 3/4" ID and 2 1/2" wide flat races . We have a lot of heavy industry close by in the town I live in and the bearing stores have just about everything under the sun.

heres a couple of pics. Pretty standard stuff. I preheat to 450 degrees and MIG weld with stainless wire in an argon purged weld box. The slot for the oil lube to the needle bearing is cut in the side with a keyway cutter and isnt visible in the picture . I put a few together and maybe I am not charging enough but I figured I already got paid to make them since technically I was on the clock while I was building them
. Like I said if anyone wants one let me know. I had originally put a few aside for future use but I got a little obsessed with doing them and some other parts I was working on like the #9 roller sets and the parking sets along with roller everything else and have a whole bin full now. Lots of spare time at work waiting for equipment to break .


http://users.adelphia.net/~mikeandnatasha/drum.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~mikeandnatasha/drum2.jpg

As far as the 6 clutches I use rear drum red non waffled clutches with standard steels. Occasionally I'll have to cut the top hat on the lathe for a relief to raise it up for clearance but the thin eagle clutches seem to fit 6 in a drum without a lot of hassle. Ive never tried the C5 drum although I guess the wide bottom groove makes it a pain to fit more clutches.



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438 inch Dart block Windsor, AFR 225 heads, 271/[email protected]" on 106 solid roller, 13:1 compression, Super Victor, crank trigger, 950 HP carb, external wet sump oiling, reverse manual C4, 4000 stall, 4.10 Dana 60, Nitrous. Street '68 Cougar. 315/60/15 MT's

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: chipmechanic on 6/20/06 3:20pm ]</font>
 

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Well add me to the list of stripped forward drums..


Always said i would know when i was making power when i started to break stuff.. lol geese
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"Mine just cracked and stripped out this weekend. What did you do to resolve your problem? Did you get the TCI drum and how many clutches does this hold?"

I ended up going with a dynamic brazed drum, and decided to get there top of the line fully rollerized 6 gear planet while I had everything apart. Hopefully now I won't have any more hard part failures.

I threw up some pics for anyone who is curious:

http://199.86.17.107/

I got my tranny back together and it is working better than ever with the tractor fluid. This stuff is really grabby...

Also, fyi, I used my old c5 piston and lip seal (all I had) with the new brazed c4 fwd drum and it seems to be working fine.

Troy

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 79Sleeper on 6/25/06 1:37am ]</font>
 

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Looks just like mine, cracked same way.
I am gonna try Broader Performance drum.


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1966 Stang Coupe Org. 6 cyl. 351w,Sealed Power Hypers, ARP bolts,Total Seal rings,Eagle H-beams rods,Balanced,Hedman long tubes, Pro Comp 2.05/1.60 Heads, Shaft roller Rockers, Victor Jr intake, Holley 750 DP, Ed Nix Custom .600/.600 254/258 @.050 Solid Cam, Crane solid roller lifters,Richmond 4.11, Strange mini spool, Modified C4, 3500 stall, ******* Transbrake, B&M Hammer shifter, Shelby lowered, Pro Comp 6Al system. Mickey Thompson 275/50 Et Street Drag radials.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: forthman on 6/27/06 8:27am ]</font>
 
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