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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In one of my other old cars I neglected for couple years. Despite having Stabil, I pulled a couple gallons of putrid black molasses like crap out of the gas tank, so now I need to clean out the tank and lines, what do you recommend? One friend says lacquer thinner, one says vinegar will work, what are your thoughts? I noticed one spot of rubber fuel line leaking this molasses stinky mixture and the line looks "soft", I guess the new ethanol blends (besides going rancid quicker) also eat the rubber?
 

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We had to deal with just the very problem for the gas tank. Had gas that sat for decade+ and it turned into really thick tar. We tried burning it but it wouldn't go.

The best thing we did was soak it in over cleaner and then power wash it out.
 

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You might want to test a sample with a few different things. Lacquer thinner might work or B12 carb cleaner would be my first choice. You can get it in gallon cans I think. I'm not sure gasoline will do it but it might. See what kind of concoction mixing stuff with it makes it into. It could become chunky, gummy, gooey or it might thin it out into something you can pour out. Your gas tank may have rusted inside now too so you need to look in there.

From what I have read, ethanol dries the aromatics out of rubber which is what causes it to crack and the formic acid eats aluminum and other things. You will need to take your carb apart if it is carburated and see what sort of damage it did.

This is what untreated e10 gas did to my lawn mower carb in several months. All those white spec's on the concrete are bits of aluminum powder that came out of the inside. It is destroyed now. It had absolutely no affect on the float but the rubber carb gasket is dried out and cracked.


Stabilizers will let you keep gas for up to a year so they say but I wouldn't push it past 6 months anymore with this gas we have now.
 

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Most radiator shops can clean a fuel tank.
 

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Most radiator shops can clean a fuel tank.

Not quite a truthful situation anymore.

Call a couple and find out. If you remember back to when I first came aboard FM I was working at a radiator repair shop.

The expensive caustic crap we use to clean radiators doesn't effect fuel varnish for crap. It cleans the crap out of the dirt and grime and most of the paint, but it's harmless to fuel deposits...
 

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You might want to test a sample with a few different things. Lacquer thinner might work or B12 carb cleaner would be my first choice. You can get it in gallon cans I think. I'm not sure gasoline will do it but it might. See what kind of concoction mixing stuff with it makes it into. It could become chunky, gummy, gooey or it might thin it out into something you can pour out. Your gas tank may have rusted inside now too so you need to look in there.

From what I have read, ethanol dries the aromatics out of rubber which is what causes it to crack and the formic acid eats aluminum and other things. You will need to take your carb apart if it is carburated and see what sort of damage it did.

This is what untreated e10 gas did to my lawn mower carb in several months. All those white spec's on the concrete are bits of aluminum powder that came out of the inside. It is destroyed now. It had absolutely no affect on the float but the rubber carb gasket is dried out and cracked.


Stabilizers will let you keep gas for up to a year so they say but I wouldn't push it past 6 months anymore with this gas we have now.

A gallon of gas is still far cheaper than a $26 dollar Gallon of Thinner or a $18 dollar gallon of Chem 12.... And it's JUST as effective....
 

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I ran a whole can of carb spray through my fuel line then blew it out with air. The first couple of runs of spray were nasty, but it got better as kept going.
I was trying to clean out my tank but in the end it had pinholes once I had the rancid gas goo out.
Mike
 

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Not quite a truthful situation anymore.

Call a couple and find out. If you remember back to when I first came aboard FM I was working at a radiator repair shop.

The expensive caustic crap we use to clean radiators doesn't effect fuel varnish for crap. It cleans the crap out of the dirt and grime and most of the paint, but it's harmless to fuel deposits...
Truthful? Good choice of words.

Simply put, if the tank cannot be professionally cleaned (immersed in tank), then it should either have a bladder installed or be discarded.

While one may think a manual flush would be successful, any minute amount left inside the tank will be dissolved by the ethanol and reintroduced into your newly cleaned fuel system.
 

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No Kul, I suppose I wasn't clear. Submersing the tank in the Radiator cleaning solution even the heated tank style will not touch the gasoline deposits. I did it personally, this is not some hear say.

That's what the effect of the EPA is having on your business and hobby of Old cars. THE Rad Tank Caustic mess is mild enough to bathe in in California, and in most other states it's barely sufficient to do the job on a radiator. It simply isn't good on Fuel varnish, and would avail you anon if you take one there with varnish that needs removed.

Remember the TV clothing washing commercial ERA? It takes Protein to remove Protein? Same concept her. It takes gas to remove gas....

And it's MANY times CHEAPER than any chemical in a gallon bucket.

But once again this thread is pointless because the guy has HOLES in his fuel tank. HE now needs to either Clean it and then Install a Urethane tank liner or get a new tank...
 

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That's what the effect of the EPA is having on your business and hobby of Old cars. THE Rad Tank Caustic mess is mild enough to bathe in in California, and in most other states it's barely sufficient to do the job on a radiator.
Hey Gary,
Remember here a while back, Lorrie Van Haul's Gas Tank needed cleaning? Went to see my friend Ben Nettles at Nettles' Radiator Shop in Livingston and asked him if he could boil out a Gas Tank. He said that they no longer had a Radiator Tank because of the EPA Regulations being such a hassle. He said that they have gone to "ultrasound" for cleaning Radiators.

JC
 

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...Ben Nettles at Nettles' Radiator Shop in Livingston and asked him if he could boil out a Gas Tank. He said that they no longer had a Radiator Tank because of the EPA Regulations being such a hassle. He said that they have gone to "ultrasound" for cleaning Radiators.

JC
Thanx JC!

You just brought me up to current tech on the subject.
 

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Thanx JC!
Hey Mr. K,
You are, of course, welcome.

You just brought me up to current tech on the subject.
The Nettles Radiator Shop in Livingston, Texas is run by a guy who is a "closet" FE Specialist. He has a ratty, run-down looking Radiator Shop that is but the front for one of the spiffiest Machine Shops I've ever seen. And when I showed up there with Lorrie Van Haul's Radiator, he was quite "taken" with Ms. American. He showed me his Machine Shop where he had a couple of "hopped up" FEs. VERY impressive looking Engines. From what I gathered, he like to build these Big Blocks, and then put them in ratty looking PickUp Trucks and then go out and surprise Chevrolets and Dodges. This guy is SERIOUS!

So how have you been? You were one of the first (after Danv) to respond to my first posts about Ms. American being a "hard-top convertible" way back when. Remember?

Ms. American is sitting patiently awaiting the attention that she is scheduled to start getting as soon as the weather gets to be a little more tolerable here.

Immediately though, she needs some attention to her Roll-Up Windows. Three of them have ceased functioning altogether.

Am going to be taking off the Arm Rests, Crank Handles, and Door Panels to see what the heck is going on in there.

The two rear Windows get STUCK about half way down, and the Driver's Side Front Window's Crank somehow just won't engage the Gear. The Crank just turns in both directions without any resistance. Am hoping that they are going to need readjusting, and lubrication.

As you may or may not know, Lorrie Van Haul, the 1967 Dodge P200 Postal Van, and the 3.14's Chase Truck is Up&Running after a two year and ten month renovation, and has become the daily driver here making it possible to start giving Ms. American some well deserved attention, the most compelling of which will be the rebuilding of the Steering Linkage.

Anyway, it's nice to see you back posting here at FMF.

Take care.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for everyone's thoughts, my situation isn't due to rusty tank as I installed it about 7-8 years ago and ran the car periodically but got caught up in life's events of being a single Dad and helpful to elderly parents (rebuilding a house for them in all my spare time at no charge) while trying to juggle my fleet of antique cars and this one sat 2-3 years with ethanol (mixed properly with Stabil) in the tank as I lost track of time. And now I have to pay for that 2-3 years of sitting by removing all the molasses like stinky goo from everything and replacing all the rubber lines.
I had a local radiator shop tell me several years ago, their solution had gotten so mild (due to EPA guidelines), I was as well off to buy some spray cans of engine cleaner and go to the local car wash to clean out radiators and gas tanks. I think that was when I had them flush my 67 LTD radiator and I wound up having to buy a new one as it was rotten.
 

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Like I said about 3 times now. Don't waste your money on that pricey crap. Simply get a gallon or two of regular unleaded and shake the schitt out of your tank and pout ir out.

Total cost $6 bucks and change. NO worries no problems. I'm not a total phuknut, I do know what I'm doing.
Another quality that seems to not run in your family that being vanity. You seem to have inherited most of that.. :frown:
 
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