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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read 10,000 articles on this. I don’t have a $10,000 budget. I have a t-top, power windows ect. I should be able to use some weight to my advantage. I have removed quad shocks, welded torque boxes, welded body seams, KB shock relocation brackets, decent KYB shocks and struts (not drag specific ). Subframe connectors ( they will be full length before spring time). Ford Motorsport Springs. The basic stuff. Currently on BFG Drags, road radials on front. I plan on flat meats and skinny’s this season.
the t-top,ect makes it heavy. Any ideas for doors. I plan on fiberglass hood and lift gate. Possibly doors.
430 hp 400 tor 302. 5 speed. 4.11 rowers.
 

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So what cid motor are you running?
Your post is not at all clear about this!
I guess I may need to fire up my crystal ball to figure this out for now.😊
88 mustang 302 block. Factory stock pistons. 66 iron heads stock valve size. Victor jr and a 650 dp for now.Fresh rebuilt by the best in the northwest. Matter of fact I am picking it up today. I am in the process of relocating battery. Adding fuel system,ignition system,full length subs, finish seam welding along with torque boxes, ect.
 

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It's going to take some very serious RPM's (8K+) to get even close to seeing 430 HP out of a 302 with stock pistons and factory cast iron heads with stock valves . . . . .
 

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83 mustang t-top.I don’t know as of now, Factory around 3,000lbs.I have removed the Air conditioning, power brakes, power steering, cruise control. All the little things that don’t matter. I have not had it on a scale.
Personally if this is for drag racing only, no street stuff. you're starting with the wrong car. 83 Mustang is heavy from the start. I used a 82 Mercury Zephyr (Fairmont) that I owned and from the start, factory everything in it, including floor mats and spare tire, 2750#s. Even with a 500HP, cast iron 460, C-6, 9" rearend, it still only weighed in at 3100#s. Hatch backs and T tops were some of the heaviest, especially power windows, etc. Weight is HP/TQ to get down the road. I ran 11.03s @123mph. Alum heads would have easily put me down around 10.80s due to weight loss and HP/TQ gain from them.
Now that being said, if you still want to use it. Get rid of the radio/speakers, power window motors and lock the windows up, except the driver one. Remove the heater assembly and wiper assembly, put in tubar front crossmember, and a-arms with a strut/coil over setup. Get rid of everything inside the car except a seat to set in.
 

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88 mustang 302 block. Factory stock pistons. 66 iron heads stock valve size. Victor jr and a 650 dp for now.Fresh rebuilt by the best in the northwest. Matter of fact I am picking it up today. I am in the process of relocating battery. Adding fuel system,ignition system,full length subs, finish seam welding along with torque boxes, ect.
You might have to be happy with low 13s at best. You just won't be making enough power to move that weight very fast.
 

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88 mustang 302 block. Factory stock pistons. 66 iron heads stock valve size. Victor jr and a 650 dp for now.Fresh rebuilt by the best in the northwest. Matter of fact I am picking it up today. I am in the process of relocating battery. Adding fuel system,ignition system,full length subs, finish seam welding along with torque boxes, ect.
Was the motor on a dyno? I don't see 430HP with 66 heads.

FYI, my 85 Mustang GT, stock heads ported on the exhaust side,mild cam,intake/carb,T5,411 gears ran 13.30s.
 

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You will find your greatest 60' gains will be with chassis tuning (whatever you have, flywheel to tread) and driver training. Get your rig together, and make friends with someone at the track that knows what they're doing with chassis reaction. Make their time worthwhile however you can. Parts are expensive, but knowledge and skills are priceless.
 
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