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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am looking at getting some parts:

-Frame rail tie kit (possibly with x bar and driveshaft hoop)

-8.8 rear end (I will be getting a LSD to put in unless it comes with one) (I guess they are out of an explorer, not sure which year though)

-Floor pans: I'd really prefer the closest fit and or strongest made (being its a track/street car)

-And I'm debating on going to a front big brake kit or a complete rotor conversion but Not sure if that's over kill.

I'd like to build as if the chassis is for 10's but I'm only aiming for high 11's/ low 12's I do however wish for decent cornering.

Any thing to steer clear of or aim for? Price is an object but quality/ performance speaks loudly. Thanks in advance for advice folks
 

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Sorry I dont have most of the answers for you - I actually have the some of the same questions. A few years back I did put an 8.8 in my 69 mustang coupe. I think it was from a 94 mustang GT. Mostly and easy install. Just cut off the original mounts and welded on some spring perches. Get the correct pinion angle and yr good to go. I used 99 mustang GT wheels and the rears fit great. The front wheels I had to use wheel spacers.
 

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I used frame connectors from Global West. They don't have an x brace but they fit well and you could always fab something up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I was debating on making a set, I found instructions on how to make a set "Daze Cars, Home Made Mustang sub-frame connectors" they work on 64.5 to 73 coupe or fastback. I assume these would work on my 65 falcon. But then again, buying is so much more time saving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry I dont have most of the answers for you - I actually have the some of the same questions. A few years back I did put an 8.8 in my 69 mustang coupe. I think it was from a 94 mustang GT. Mostly and easy install. Just cut off the original mounts and welded on some spring perches. Get the correct pinion angle and yr good to go. I used 99 mustang GT wheels and the rears fit great. The front wheels I had to use wheel spacers.
Yea it seems the front wheels are sunk in way too far I was figuring spacers also.
 

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I also have Global West sub-frame connectors on my car. We welded them in different than they were designed for and it worked way better. I'm not sure if you can see here but the racecar shop welded them on the opposite side and reversed front to rear if that makes since. This way the bend goes inward instead of outwards so the tubes actually butt up against the frame extension as well as the front/rear mounting points giving a lot more weld-up area along the frame. Basically three points of connection.


I noticed an immediate improvement in ride and feel. The car has no twisting when going up driveways, etc. I've recently added their front 1" sway bar and that was alos a big improvement.

If you're going for a 10.0 certified car you're going to need a lot more than the stuff you mentioned including a full roll cage and so on.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you're going for a 10.0 certified car you're going to need a lot more than the stuff you mentioned including a full roll cage and so on.

John
I meant more so on just being a sturdy set up for that kinda of power not so much track legality wise :)

BTW THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP!
 

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Sub frame connectors are pretty easy to make if you have a welder and cut off saw. I made some for my 65 Falcon out of 1.5" x 1.5" x .25" wall box tubing. Pretty much anything you do will make an improvement on these cars.

There are some good pics of a nice custom set going on a 65 falcon here:

• View topic - TN 65 Hard Top street rod? dragster? Not sure yet.

Pierre
 

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worth it to log in there - the whole sites is just falcons and has tons of pics/info.
 
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