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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
edelbrock heads, edelbrock performer intake. felpro gaskets on both. So I started her up and was doing the flat tappet cam break in and everything was going great. Ran like a TOP.
160 temp, 58 oil psi. 2000 rpms

well all of a sudden I seen smoke and smelled oil. started looking and she was Spraying oil out of the back of the intake, where it meets the block.
Shut it down, and checked the oil, and sure enough it had water in the oil.

No oil in the water. I didn't have time to check for bubbles in the radiator. Very sluggish to turn over now.

I just threw a tarp over her and walked away. Could it be the wrong intake gaskets, head gasket blown? Head cracked even though she never got over 160 and only ran for 10 minutes or so.

I am SICK, LOST, AND FRUSTRAITED. But I am not about to give up on her. She was making some nice power before she got the water in the oil.

Any Ideas would be great. I hope to put the intake tomorrow and see what I can see.

Also the odd thing was one time I tried to start her up. It squirted oil out of the back of the intake almost like an oil pump. 3 good squirts pretty fast.

Praying its an intake gasket but with my luck I know its the head
 

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you are making me very nervous. in a couple of days i will be starting my home rebuild up for the very first time, also in my galaxie. everything possible has gone wrong already. now im even more scared haha
 

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OK dammit, I am going to ASSUME that the motor in question is the 390 in your signature.

There is NOTHING in the Valley (that area between the lifter valley and the intake) that will SPURT out oil when the engine is running. NOTHING at all.

There IS an oil passage in the head gasket. But in order to squirt that oil out the end gasket it would have to be about 13 quarts over full....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it is the 390, and its not only the squirting of the oil, its the water mixed in the oil. Its only got about 6 quarts in it. just a tad over the full mark on the dipstick.

This cars real name is christene, she has been a nightmare. I am stumped but hope to e pulling the intake this afternoon.
 

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I had the recommended head gasket's fail on my RPM heads and the thing smoked like crazy!!! Embarrasing to say the least but I went back to the stock ones with metal in them. Probably lose a little in performance but I don't think they'll blow out. Run a little nitrous every once in a while and I wanted to be able to handle the extra pressures.

A side note, on start up and break in the same motor ate cam and lifters. Totally f'd the hole smile on my face. Started up and sounded like a race car....shut it down after 15 minutes and thought it was a diesel. Ripped out the cam and associated parts. pumped diesel fuel throuth the oil passages for about 30 minutes. Installed full rollers after that. Never do anything other than rollers from now on. Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So heres what I have found, the intake gaskets looked fine. no blow outs or anything of that nature, so the next thing in line is take the heads off and pray I find a blown gasket. The passenger side valve cover had a ton more water in it than the drivers side! no water in the pistons so far.

One great thing I found is in the 15 minutes at 2000 rpm my cam and lifters look perfect.

Can anyone tell me the BEST and CORRECT head gaskets and Intakes gaskets on the market. I have called Mr Barry to get the correct ones from him but can not seem to get him. I don't want to just order them and they be wrong.

He once emailed me that I needed the CORRECT intake gaskets but i didn't need any at the time.

Should I go commetic, felpro, edelbrock, on the gaskets. I am lost





also here are the plugs, I only had one on the #6 cylinder really dark, its on the blue towel



 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
also I realized it didn't have the oil tray in the oil valley galley. Do I need to put my old one back in there when I put her back together
 

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I feel your PAIN .Back in 07/2010, I cranked up the freshly rebuilt 352 bored 40 over with a RV cam. She was ROARING swell and but there was no oil getting to the rocker arms. I shut her down dropped the pan , pulled the oil pump (LOCKED UP),the shaft looked like a swizzle stick. I was sick as well. I posted on here about it . Everyone was talking about the cam break in . THAT MADE ME SICKER.. Put in another oil pump and shaft. She is still doing GREAT..
Maybe your problem will be MINOR..GOOD LUCK!!
If it came with a oil tray I'd put it back ,That's just me,
FE will know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info and insight gents, I will be pulling the heads in the am. and hoping to visually see the problem there. Yall Pray for me its not the block or heads. I may still have the heads checked out just for insurance. Pictures will be posted as well.

Also after the symptoms she had I am thinking its a blown head gasket that was pressurizing the oil system and it just found the weakest link. It almost seemed to be squirting with each stroke of a piston.

Or I can also be like my father and swear its a cracked block. I pray not but what are the chances of the block cracking only bored 30 over and never getting over 160 170 degrees. I almost want to say I even saw some bubbles in the radiator while the cap was off and I know it didn't blow the seal until I put the radiator cap on!!!!
 

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With only the intake off, you still have the opportunity to do a leak-down test to possibly determine the nasties. It's too late to do a cooling system check to find where the water came from. If you're lucky, a leak-down will back-blow to show the water source if it wasn't the manifold. You could also have run the oil pump with a drill motor to pressurize the oil system to find that leak source. I hope visual inspection goes well tomorrow. :tup:

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
would the rings have had time to seat in 15 minutes of running?? The reason I ask is when I was replacing the valve springs the rings were not seated and it lost air pressure quickly enough to make my small compressor stay on. If they did not have time to seat the leak down would be null and void, correct me if I am wrong please!!!

and once again what head gaskets and intake gaskets does everyone use, It had the felpro 1020 on them and felpro intake as well. 1247.

What do yall use?
 

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Leak-down is still valid, with compensation for any known leaks. If you used moly rings, they are already seated. Plain cast rings or chromed rings will not seat until you either have grand kids, or you run it hard. Ignoring any leaks you have around unseated rings - valve leaks, gaskets, head or block cracks can all still be found with testing.

David
 

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Also after the symptoms she had I am thinking its a blown head gasket that was pressurizing the oil system and it just found the weakest link. It almost seemed to be squirting with each stroke of a piston.
No part of the oil system normally could spray oil out back of the intake no matter how much pressure you had, are you sure it was oil and not coolant spraying out? sounds to me like it was not sealed will on the water passages at the back of the heads and intake manifold and it let go as FE said there is nothing that could spray oil out of the back of the manifold.
Also I would clean the gasket sealer out of the intake ports of the heads that could come back to bit you later on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yes the plug is in the rear oil galley, well Bad news I couldn't find much of anything wrong but heres what I have found. The head bolts on the passenger side were torqued well over 90 pounds. Like I had to use a breaker bar and really put on them, on the other hand I found the drivers side was pretty easy to break. It was like two different people torqued each head at different specs.

The other thing I found is there was some minor surface rust on the deck and on the head gasket on the looser head, look at the pictures. I can't truly find a problem anywhere.

I am beginning to think it may have been the intake gasket in the rear that could have came loose. It was a little loose after inspection but I thought it was from me taking the intake off. I believe it may have something to do with the fact that i used a engine leveler and used those bolt holes in the rear of the intake to mount it, I also had the trans on and went back in the car with the whole thing. The weight of the trans prob didn't help.

Consensus is to get new gaskets, put her back together, find out the correct torque method on the edelbrock heads from yall, and turn the key and pray.











 

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Is the plug in the rear oil gallery ?
It appears they are, but following your idea, I can see when zoomed-in that there was little to zero rear manifold seal across a large area. Squirting coolant and blown oil at 2k rpm may be the actual. If there was oil out the back, it certainly would be most likely to happen at 2k rpm, with extra crankcase pressure from unseated rings. If the rear manifold fit is that wide, it could just be a crossover leak for the coolant. I'm not saying this is it, but it's possible it's only a rear crossover coolant leak and oil out the unsealed end. I would look for signs of leakage and check for warping or excess head milling with misalignment. I know pics are deceiving, but that looks like a pretty big end gap there.

David

Zoom of the plug and rear manifold area:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
One thing I also noticed about the rear seal bead was that it looked to have already been dried on the block before the intake was installed. It never had any adhesion to the intake at all when I pull it off.

I am going back with felpro 1020 gaskets
can anyone tell me the correct intake gaskets with edel. intake and heads. my intake is the performer. There are just so many out there I am lost.
 
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