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Discussion Starter #1
1963.5 Galaxie 390.. trying to remove front springs. Jacked up car put on jack stands, removed tire, removed torsion bar attachment, slacked the lower ball joint castle nut and have been beating on spindle trying to get ball joint to drop.

I can’t get it to budge, I’ve tried with jack under a arm, under brake, tried to leave floating and no luck. What’s the truck? I don’t want to use a ball joint forks, I don’t want mess up ball joint boots. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks.
 

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Where are you hitting the spindle?

Here's how I do it...

First...
Important!
Remove shock absorber!

Disconnect sway bar link.

Wheels off, chassis on jack stands,suspension hanging, lower ball joint nut loosened (but NOT removed).

There is now spring tension trying to pull the lower ball joint stud "out" from the spindle....

I now smack the SIDE of the spindle with a BFH right where the ball joint stud goes thru.

This distorts the hole and releases the stud from said hole.
There is usually a pretty big bang when it lets go, that's why you don't completely remove the nut.
All that spring tension is dangerous.

Once ball joint is loose, put a jack under the control arm, raise it up a bit and remove the nut.

Now you can lower the jack and ease the spring tension to get it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That’s what I’ve been doing, right at lower ball joint. I do have shock removed also. Do I need to have tie rod off? Castle nut is still on threads 3/4 of the nut deep, I have about 1/2”-3/4” threads showing above spindle hole.. still can’t get it budge?
 

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That’s what I’ve been doing, right at lower ball joint. I do have shock removed also. Do I need to have tie rod off? Castle nut is still on threads 3/4 of the nut deep, I have about 1/2”-3/4” threads showing above spindle hole.. still can’t get it budge?
Sure, remove the tie rod and that will allow you to turn the spindle and get a straight shot at the inner curved part of the spindle where the ball joint stud goes thru.

Probably better to hit it there instead of on the side.

Use a BFH and really whack that thing!
 

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I don't know about the earlier cars, but for my 1965 Galaxie the shop manual shows a tool that is used for this. I made one out of some bolts, washers, and a coupling nut. It basically goes between the upper and lower ball joint studs and pushes them both. It worked fine, but I pulled the springs out first.

I can't find any pics of mine in use but I can probably dig it up and take some photos if it will help.

- John
 

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Here's what I used on my '65 Ranchero; I'm pretty sure this is what gearheadct is talking about. I found the idea on the mustangsteve.com site, but I used round head bolts, which were "captured" better by the castle nuts so they didn't tend to slip off.

164514
164515
 

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Brewboy, that's it! I countersunk the bolt heads on mine to keep them in place. Your idea would have been much easier! I wish I had thought of that.

I tried tools similar to what Jiffy posted, but couldn't get them to fit on my '65. Might be different on the earlier suspension.

- John
 

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As an aside, I have heard others talk about the success they've had simultaneously hitting BOTH sides of the spindle where the ball-joint passes through - apparently more likely to get the distortion if you hit both sides.

I'm pretty unco-ordinated so I haven't tried it, but you can buy a new boot for the ball-joint I think.... Go with the fork...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the info, gonna try and find the bolt thing as I have beat the sh$$$ out of my spindle and won’t budge. I dropped the tie rod and it made it a lot easier to get a good stroke on it and still won’t pop. Guess I’ll try and get something like the bolt above and try it. Also like the ball joint thing that slides under boot may try that also.. thanks again for help and when I get some progress I’ll be back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So after beating and prying and wedging and jacking I can’t get the fuc$$$$ ball joint to drop and even with spring compressor loaner tool can’t get out. Guess I’ll just ride it around as is.

Has anyone cut off bottom coil while spring is in car? I rigged up spring compressor top and the all thread to top of my jack and have spring tensions off of bottom coil. Just not sure if I cut it if it will be able to be removed or pinned under coil? Thoughts?
Was thinking if I could cut it in place I could do same to other side since the ball joints won’t drop. I don’t want to replace ball joint because they are working fine and they are 150$ per side in the lower a arm. Thanks for replies..
 

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you know that knuckel doesnt look like it has been beaten . when i get through, there are marks all over it
 

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It looks like the sway bar is still connected...disconnect the sway bar. Remove the spring compressor, loosen up the ball joint nut and get a bigger hammer.
 

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I have used this for many years and it never fails. Get it as tight as you can and if it wont pop, wait 10 minutes and it will.
 

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The jack looks to be holding tension. Lower the jack first then whack it with a club head hammer It’ll pop right down.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
FINALLY!!! in the end it was a BFH and a 12” bolt on top of the ball joint crown nut. POP! And it dropped. Thanks for all the help and pointers. Going to cut 1 coil and reinstall. Looking for about 2” and gonna do drop blocks in rear. Is sawzall gonna cut this fat ass spring or what?? Guess we’ll see ;-))
 

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