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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed the 2nd hand Holley Street Avenger and the car wouldn't start. So I hit it with ether and it started, then dies. So I hit it with ether again, and it runs several seconds and then dies. So I think no fuel. Puzzling. So I disconnect the fuel line and crank it over and fuel is all over the place, not only that but it starts running. I remove the center-hung-fuel-bowl-plugs and crank it and fuel runs all over the place indicating high float level. So there is fuel but the float level or needle seat is stuck or something. I have some assembles around, new and used, and I'm not sure but think I can just remove them without taking the carb off of the engine, and put other ones in. But where do I preset the float level/needle seat level too? All the way down I imagine. I guess I loosen the nut and tighten the screw down against it and then tighten the nut down as an assembly. Anybody know?




 

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I installed the 2nd hand Holley Street Avenger and the car wouldn't start.
Hey 70XL,
I installed a rebuilt Autolite 4100, and the car wouldn't start.

fuel runs all over the place indicating high float level.
Same thing happened to the 4100

Anybody know?
Before you go any further, CHECK the pressure coming out of your Fuel Pump.

Ms. American got a NEW NAPA Fuel Pump. Supposed to put out 6.5 PSI. Was putting out almost 9 PSI. That's called an "overly aggressive" Fuel Pump.

Started a fire in the Engine Compartment. Took about three weeks to get it all back to where it was before the fire.

Got a NEW Fuel Pump that is putting out 6.5 PSI, and a Pressure Regulator that is set at 5.5 PSI.

What you have may NOT be an overly aggressive Fuel Pump, but it's better to check it than taking a chance of burning your Engine.

JC
 

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You are posting this BEFORE YOU EVEN have the carb fully assembled?

Why does your pictures have NO float level screws?
I used that particular picture since a picture says 1000 words. But I am trying to determine, which I may have answered my own question, is how do you install the screw and needle and valve into the hole? I just read there is approximately +/- 1/4 turn of adjustment to the screw or there abouts, but that is from the factory installed location. I wanted to install new ones into an already assembled but malfunctioning carb.
 

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Theres not much of a way to pre-set the adjustment. Just screw the needle assembly in until the flats on the seat assb. are flush with the nut, then lock the srew. BE CAREFUL..the threads in the bowl are kinda fragile...DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Pull the coil wire so the engine doesn't start for right now.

Remove the sight plug.

Crank engine a half dozen turns and check for gas right at the bottom of the site plug threads.

Raise the assb. a little at a time and re-crank the motor untill you see gas at the bottom of the sight plug hole.
 

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notice that the adj. is with the 5/8 nut, not the screw. it is a lock. turning the nut in lowers the float level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
notice that the adj. is with the 5/8 nut, not the screw. it is a lock. turning the nut in lowers the float level.
So turning the nut tighten/down/lower also lowers the fuel level? I think I tried that and still had overflow. I think it ran though with the plugs out. It's stressful with all that fuel running all over the place, on the ground and under the car and onto the manifold. That's slowing me down. Plus I'm kinda busy working 63 hours a week as a cnc machinist. It's the busy season here again.
 
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