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I have owned my 65 FORD Galaxie since I was 17 , I quit driving it a few years ago but I kept it started pulled forward & beck, a coupe years ago fuel starting overflowing out of the top of the carb, a 4100, I had it rebuilt &also a 60 Holley, when I put either one on, the cars runs but over flows top of card, I bought a new rebuild carb, I couldn`t get one for the 390 , But over the years I`ve used a carb off a 71 Mark III Lincoln , and it worked fine, So I got that in a rebuild, But as with the others it ran a while then over flowed . I can`t figure it out,I`ve NEVER had anything like this with this car ever , An suggestions ?, P.s. I have a 50 FORD custom it`s all stock carburetor & it runs great !
 

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The only things I can think of is the fuel pump (too high a pressure, forcing past the needle and seat), gas cap or vent problem (pressure building in the tank, same result), or fuel percolation from the carb getting too hot. This is more of a problem with modern ethanol fuels which boil at a lower temperature.


If you have a vacuum gauge, see if it is also a fuel pressure gauge. Many are. If so, unhook the line to the carb and connect it to the gauge instead. You can start and run the car just on the fuel in the carb, and read the pressure on the gauge. Should be 4-5 PSI.



Good luck,


Pat
 

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Thank You Pat, I was thinking the same thing, May try a fuel pressure regulator on the next carb, I don`t think it`s a boiling situation as I have a 50 FORD flat head with a 2 brrll holly carb that after the motor temp gets up to mid way on the temp gauge it will Buck & shut off, ( Vapor Lock) So I have to use NON alcohol fuel in it at 3.45 gal. so I don`t have to fool with that anymore, But it will fire back up, when it does that, This does this within a few seconds after first start up.not enough time to boil, * it`s a vented gas tank so not building up pressure, . All I can do is try the pressure regulator I guess, Thank you again !!
 

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Also check the carb's float to make sure it's set correctly, along with an inspection of the needle to make sure it's not damaged and not closing off with the float.
 

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Also check the carb's float to make sure it's set correctly, along with an inspection of the needle to make sure it's not damaged and not closing off with the float.
^^^^ this. It is the float's job to close the needle. One other opportunity for failure especially after a carb rebuild: the front and rear floats get switched. When that happens, 4100s overflow.

Fuel pump-wise I don't see how a pump can suddenly get stronger. Maybe you swapped it out?
 
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