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I have a new Ford crate 351 that I'm in the process of converting to EFI for installation into a 96 mustang. I'm pretty new to the 351 (the mustang had a 4.6) so I'm learning as I go.

The motor came set up for carb, with a 1 piece eccentric for the mechanical fuel pump. I'm installing the Explorer timing cover (because I'm using the 94-95 mustang short water pump) and the timing cover doesn't clear the eccentric (the eccentric is about 1/2" to tall). This wasn't really a surprise. Here's the questions:

Can I remove the eccentric without worrying about it causing a balance/vibration problem with the cam? Is there some sort of eccentric washer I should be replacing this with? If so, I can get it where?

The dowel pin for the timing gear and eccentric is 1.5" (not 1.375" like I would have expected from what I've read). It sticks out .25" from the timing gear, so if I remove the eccentric, I either need a large .25" thick spacer washer that I can drill a hole into to replace the eccentric's thickness, or I need to cut .25" off the dowel pin. I've checked the bolt, and it will go in far enough to snug the timing gear down properly without the eccentric - although I think I need a larger washer to properly hold the timing gear so it won't shear the dowel someday. If I go the shorter dowel pin route, I'd prefer to hang on to my original, and get a 1.375" and cut it. I've looked and can't find anywhere that sells just the pin. Anyone have a source?

Any other ideas on best to deal with this are welcome.
 

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Removing it is not a balance issue. Have some one spin it and cut the eccentric off? Cams usually come with both pins so a lot of them have been tossed. Ford dealer may be the easiest to just get the FI parts.
 

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Tossed my mechanical fuel pump eccentric when I went with an electric pump.
 

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well there's a couple ways to eliminate the eccentric. The right way would be to get a shorter pin. The "other" way would be to grind a section out of the washer that goes behind the bolt. There's normally a thick washer under the bolt head. I just usually grind a part of it back so that it fits over the pin. Doesn't hurt a thing as long as the cam bolt is tightened correctly. I figure that if it were a problem, I'd have had an issue with it by now...especially considering that I'm still using a 3/8" bolt (most solid roller cams now use a 7/16" bolt) and close to 310 lbs of spring pressure on the seat and 720 open.
 
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