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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just wanted to give a write up on how I installed my 3G alternator into my 1964 Galaxie to replace the generator. Should work for multiple model years. I spent a lot of time googling old threads, and while I did eventually get what I needed the road was windy. Lots of mixed information between 1G to 3G swaps much of it contradictory. So I make this in hope that someone in the future may land in this and get what they need faster. I’ll provide links to parts and everything. The whole job took me about 2 hours.

I’m not saying this is the only way. All I’m saying is that THIS WILL WORK.

To start I had an earlier 61-62 block with no alternator hole. So if you have that hole you will use different braketry but can get it from the same place.

Catalog

Here are the brackets you need. Made by C.R.A.P. I bought the set for earlier blocks. I bought off their Ebay store. Shipped promptly. Bolted up easily. Looks great. Not the cheapest but it’s painless.

The brackets are made for a 1G alternator. The mount holes are 7” apart. This is important to note when buying your 3G replacement.

Most 3g units are made for a serpentine system. So if you buy one of those you will have to source an alternator pulley for a V belt. There are large and small cases with different mounting point widths. YOU NEED TO BUY A 7”. I think there are even small cases fitted with 8.25 ears. I think I read in my travels that even with the correct mount spacing the large cases might impact the head.

To make life easier I stumbled not upon a small case 95 amp unit that comes with a dual V belt pulley already installed. These are off early 90s Ford industrial trucks and busses.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081SBWDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Odd choice maybe but it’s bolted right in, and already has a V belt pulley installed. I only used a single belt, but many 3 g swaps reported they needed to use dual belts to stop it from squealing. That said most others used the 130 amp or even higher amp aftermarket units. This was part of the reason I opted to search out a 95 amp alternator. The clocking isn’t optimal on this unit, but you can reclock it if you want or just live with it like I did. It’s totally workable, but you could reclock it and it would Ben better.

Wiring. I swear I looked at a million wiring diagrams. So many contradictions. In the end the attached file was the most useful but it still wasn’t perfect. So here goes. Removing the generator, there are three wires connected. Two small black or mostly black wires and a large yellow with black stripe wire. The two small ones I taped over and tucked away. The large yellow wire we will return to.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RPWWZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GIVMJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a pigtail for a 3 g alternator and the stator plug off Amazon. Like $10 total. Made life easier. Wired the a wire to the big terminal on the back of the alternator, wired the S wire to the stator plug. And then a 10g power wire to the big terminal. At this point i installed the alternator to the brackets with the previously installed wires dangling. After your installed hook your new power wire to the starter solenoid post that has your battery terminal on it. Lastly take the I wire and however you want splice to that yellow/black wire from earlier.

At first it tried to ignore the I wire as some said you could. The alternator didn’t seem to charge. Apparently with this setup the I wire hooked up to your gen light/ignition switch acts to excite the fields. After I hooked it up to said yellow wire I got 14v of charge.

I left the voltage regulator in. As I said I’m sure you can do this multiple ways. If you wanted to perform major surgery to your harness you could open the tape, pull out the wires that I just taped back and probably eliminate the VR. A can of worms I wasn’t interested in.

Random notes. You will have to remove the fan and WP pulley to replace your brackets. In my case the belt was a teensie bit too big. I took it to autozone and grabbed one that was two sizes smaller. It does belt chirp a tiny bit on first start. Why only on start? I don’t know. But no more after. You can make use of the second belt slot on the alternator listed to eliminate this or it may be mandatory with a 130 unit.


I now have 14 volts, the ability to upgrade to things like EFI, or electric fans. And if it dies on a road trip I can replace it with autozone parts.


Hope this helps some random person in the future. It was a long post. I’m sure there are typos. So don’t judge me.
 

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Good job! Now you have to think about moving your high draw items over to a relay so your draw is directly from the battery instead of drawing through the headlight switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right now everything is factory. I didn’t think my generator was working right. I could slowly see the bolt gauge creep down over time. If I needed to replace it anyway I wanted to just move to an alternator. And if I was swapping anyway, I wanted an internal regulator.

But that’s a good idea. If I do switch in something like electric fans in the future the relay is an idea I will revisit. Right now it has a 6 blade fixed fan. I would like to switch to a large clutch fan. Those fixed setups eat horsepower.

Side note. I’m still not sure my GENERATOR idiot light works right. It always comes on when I turn on the headlights, but it did that with the generator installed too. The car is far from a virgin so who knows what somebody did in the past that could effect its functionality. It came with an aftermarket volt gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I’ll check in the morning. I never took pictures because I just haven’t got around to making the wiring pretty.

I think the excite wire that I ended up splicing with the thick yellow/black wire was green.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did confirm, I have the Green/red wire going to the large like 10g yellow/black wire. Yours might be different though if it came with an alternator to start with.
 

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Today I ordered the truck alternator listed above along with a pigtail for it. I'll order the proper bracket for it tomorrow for the install on my 63 Galaxie. I'll get some pictures as I install the unit and follow up with a brief description although the above description seems very thorough! Thanks for the info Jeremy!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Today I ordered the truck alternator listed above along with a pigtail for it. I'll order the proper bracket for it tomorrow for the install on my 63 Galaxie. I'll get some pictures as I install the unit and follow up with a brief description although the above description seems very thorough! Thanks for the info Jeremy!
NP. I will add one thing. With a cheap over the counter parts store belt I was getting some belt squeal on start when using only a single belt. So I upgraded to a Gates Super HC belt that was advertised to be able to carry more power to pulleys. Did the trick. On the expensive side for a belt, but that still only makes it like $16.

Gates 3V425 V-Belt Is the one I used. One size bigger might still work and make install easier. That one is on the tight side.
 

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Well I did my generator to 3G alternator conversion yesterday. It took a grand total of 2 hours! The only issue with the installation is that my "GEN" light is now on all the time. I'll either wire it to work as designed or just pull the lamp if it doesn't impact any other system. VERY straight forward installation using the CRAP brackets and 95A alternator listed above. You have to pull the factory shroud, fan, spacer and water pump pulley to access one bolt and you have to use the provided button head socket head screw they provide with a little dab of loctite on the threads. In my case there wasn't enough clearance to use a lock washer. I have CVF pulleys so a factory pulley may offer more clearance. The loctite shouldn't be an issue since the tensioner arm is the correct geometry to allow adjusting belt tension without the arm having to move.


The crap brackets and spacers worked perfectly with the listed alternator and by purchasing the correct pigtails for the alternator it made wiring a snap using the method listed above. One thing you'll want to add is a mega fuse holder for the mega fuse between the positive side of the starter solenoid and the terminal on the back of the alternator.



Now for the porn:


Installation of the crap bracket; the hole down and to the right will be behind the water pump pulley and require the button head socket head screw with a dab of loctite on it. The spacer for the top middle hole is included along with all other needed installation hardware.




This next photo is the completed installation. Ultimately I will add the second belt but I am not having any belt squeal issues as outlined in the original post. I was able to reuse the belt I had and I always use Gates so perhaps I just got lucky.





14.52 volts at all rpm's idle to 4k with and without all electrical items operating.






I tried to get more "in process" photos but it went so smoothly AND my phone died that I couldn't provide any more. In their stead I submit this and hope that in some small way it suffices to fill the void left by the omission of the other "in process" photos.




Without getting me in TOO much trouble with the mods!



 

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You need a diode on the GEN light line and the light will go out when the alternator is rotating. The light will come on when the alternator is not rotating. Get the diode at MADelectric.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That’s great. I’m glad it worked out for someone else too. I do remember I had to remove the fan too.

Did you reclock your alternator? I feel like your plug is in a better position than mine is. But I haven’t looked at it im a while. I still need to go out and do some trimming to the wiring of mine.
 

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That’s great. I’m glad it worked out for someone else too. I do remember I had to remove the fan too.

Did you reclock your alternator? I feel like your plug is in a better position than mine is. But I haven’t looked at it im a while. I still need to go out and do some trimming to the wiring of mine.

I'll look into the diode Voodiliquist thanks! Jeremy it's clocked the way it came out of the box. My install isn't pretty either, right now my focus is on getting the car reliable then I'll worry about pretty. I believe my next step is to replace the driver side front floor pan, mine is very thin overall and is missing a spot the size of an 8 track tape right under the driver's heel. The GF is pushing the floor pan so we can start getting the interior back together.
 

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I just wanted to give a write up on how I installed my 3G alternator into my 1964 Galaxie to replace the generator. Should work for multiple model years. I spent a lot of time googling old threads, and while I did eventually get what I needed the road was windy. Lots of mixed information between 1G to 3G swaps much of it contradictory. So I make this in hope that someone in the future may land in this and get what they need faster. I’ll provide links to parts and everything. The whole job took me about 2 hours.

I’m not saying this is the only way. All I’m saying is that THIS WILL WORK.

To start I had an earlier 61-62 block with no alternator hole. So if you have that hole you will use different braketry but can get it from the same place.

Catalog

Here are the brackets you need. Made by C.R.A.P. I bought the set for earlier blocks. I bought off their Ebay store. Shipped promptly. Bolted up easily. Looks great. Not the cheapest but it’s painless.

The brackets are made for a 1G alternator. The mount holes are 7” apart. This is important to note when buying your 3G replacement.

Most 3g units are made for a serpentine system. So if you buy one of those you will have to source an alternator pulley for a V belt. There are large and small cases with different mounting point widths. YOU NEED TO BUY A 7”. I think there are even small cases fitted with 8.25 ears. I think I read in my travels that even with the correct mount spacing the large cases might impact the head.

To make life easier I stumbled not upon a small case 95 amp unit that comes with a dual V belt pulley already installed. These are off early 90s Ford industrial trucks and busses.

Amazon.com: DB Electrical AFD0025 Alternator Compatible With/Replacement For Ford F600 F700 F800 F900 Hd Truck 19901999, L6000 L7000 L8000 L9000 1989-1999, B600 B700 B800 Heavy Duty 1990-1999 334-2005 334-2239: Automotive

Odd choice maybe but it’s bolted right in, and already has a V belt pulley installed. I only used a single belt, but many 3 g swaps reported they needed to use dual belts to stop it from squealing. That said most others used the 130 amp or even higher amp aftermarket units. This was part of the reason I opted to search out a 95 amp alternator. The clocking isn’t optimal on this unit, but you can reclock it if you want or just live with it like I did. It’s totally workable, but you could reclock it and it would Ben better.

Wiring. I swear I looked at a million wiring diagrams. So many contradictions. In the end the attached file was the most useful but it still wasn’t perfect. So here goes. Removing the generator, there are three wires connected. Two small black or mostly black wires and a large yellow with black stripe wire. The two small ones I taped over and tucked away. The large yellow wire we will return to.

Amazon.com: Pico 5747PT Ford Alternator Pigtail Connector Wiring Harness Regulatr 94+: Automotive

Amazon.com: Ford 2G 3G 4G Alternator Harness Voltage Regulator Connector plug 3 Wire Pigtail: Automotive

I bought a pigtail for a 3 g alternator and the stator plug off Amazon. Like $10 total. Made life easier. Wired the a wire to the big terminal on the back of the alternator, wired the S wire to the stator plug. And then a 10g power wire to the big terminal. At this point i installed the alternator to the brackets with the previously installed wires dangling. After your installed hook your new power wire to the starter solenoid post that has your battery terminal on it. Lastly take the I wire and however you want splice to that yellow/black wire from earlier.

At first it tried to ignore the I wire as some said you could. The alternator didn’t seem to charge. Apparently with this setup the I wire hooked up to your gen light/ignition switch acts to excite the fields. After I hooked it up to said yellow wire I got 14v of charge.

I left the voltage regulator in. As I said I’m sure you can do this multiple ways. If you wanted to perform major surgery to your harness you could open the tape, pull out the wires that I just taped back and probably eliminate the VR. A can of worms I wasn’t interested in.

Random notes. You will have to remove the fan and WP pulley to replace your brackets. In my case the belt was a teensie bit too big. I took it to autozone and grabbed one that was two sizes smaller. It does belt chirp a tiny bit on first start. Why only on start? I don’t know. But no more after. You can make use of the second belt slot on the alternator listed to eliminate this or it may be mandatory with a 130 unit.


I now have 14 volts, the ability to upgrade to things like EFI, or electric fans. And if it dies on a road trip I can replace it with autozone parts.


Hope this helps some random person in the future. It was a long post. I’m sure there are typos. So don’t judge me.
I am doing this conversion right now- thank you so much for posting your experience. You mentioned you left the external VR in the vehicle...does that hinder anything - given the alternator has an Internal VR. If not I am just going to follow in your foot steps and wire it the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am doing this conversion right now- thank you so much for posting your experience. You mentioned you left the external VR in the vehicle...does that hinder anything - given the alternator has an Internal VR. If not I am just going to follow in your foot steps and wire it the same.
Glad its being used. Ive had mine in for like 2 years now with no problems. My gen light doesnt work, but I just dont really care.

And No. Its just me being lazy. It would be cleaner if you pull out the regulator and remove unnecessary wires. I just capped them and taped them out of the way. If you yank the VR you may find that this thing or another doesnt work, Im not sure what runs through it. You would then have to sort that out.

In my Firebird pretty much the entire electrical system runs through the stupid horn relay.
 
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