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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I had aspired to begin replacing parts and going upgrades on my 67 Galaxie 500 with a 390 this weekend and have hit a road block before I even began. I've been pouring over threads on here and keep taking steps from this and that (like this one http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/ignition-articles/485095-troubleshooting-your-ignition-system.html) Story is, last week it drove to work and parked fine, then wouldn't start and couldn't be jumped (although there were interior lights on). Got a new battery and it started right up, gauges and lights acted normal.

Then yesterday I went to start it and nothing. Opened the door and had interior lights, clicked ignition to on and the lights were still on, clicked forward again to start and nothing... lights out, no clicks, no noises, no nothing.

We've replaced a lot in the ignition system since rescuing this one and I'm trying my best to troubleshoot but need to call you guys in for some help on this one. Battery is new and multimeter says it's got a good charge. All battery cables and starter cable are brand new with good connections. New volt regulator as well. I replaced the solenoid this morning figuring that was the typical issue fix for this but no, still no lights or starting up. I got the Duralast Gold 3 year warranty solenoid. Multimeter is showing a charge at/from the solenoid, NSS red/blue wire looks damn near new so I think the NSS has been replaced at some point in the car's life. But I have not traveled the wire to find where it is actually located in the system and to check that connection. I'm still confused a bit with some wiring diagrams, just part of the learning curve I suppose.

Multimeter is NOT showing any current at the ignition coil, but it's very possible I'm not testing right. I tried each stud on it separately along with a body ground, zero current reading. Then moved on to checking the fuse box, all is well there. Took the dash apart thinking maybe something was loose with the ignition switch, all looks well there though, wires look newer like maybe it's been replaced before. Is there any way to check the current here?

The wire harness that hooks into what comes out of the firewall and then into the ignition coil look bad to me. There are 2 wires that have been bent a few too many times and the plastic has cracked and is showing wire. The only parts store I know that has this harness is closed on Saturdays... so that won't help me now. But aside from that, why wouldn't the interior lights be on? Car was running perfectly fine before its sudden death. It has brand new plugs and plug wires, just did the timing, distributor cap looked ok, and we ran some seafoam through to clean out some carbon buildup it seemed to have (which fixed a dieseling issue that had started). Purring like a kitten after that. Gas is brand new, just filled up on premium since she seems to run better on that. Currently has a 2bbl with electric choke.

What stupid thing am I missing? Any other points you'd suggest I check with the multimeter? If there are some please let me know where I should touch for the checks and what the readings should be, my green-self just hasn't learned some of these things yet so please forgive me. I was really trying to exhaust all search avenues and even throwing on new parts before asking for help, and I appreciate any suggestions to help me get this fixed. Starter? Condenser? Ignition switch? NSS? Just time for new wires all over? I was pretty excited to change out by 2bbl for a 4bbl and new intake manifold today, but that does me no good if she doesn't start lol
 

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Hmm nothing from the starter. Car might be in gear. Also the NSS might prevent starting. Sometimes you just need to bypass that thing!

You can bypass the starter relay with a screwdriver. Ignition on, jump from the hot (passenger) side to the "S" terminal on top (also passenger side).

But really I am thinking bad grounds, in particular from and including the negative battery to the block and from the block to the firewall. Also where the relay screws into the fender needs to be a good metal contact.

That's all I got, probably more! good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So looks like the solenoid was the issue... for some reason the old one was rewired and the +/- was swapped. So when I reconnected everything as was, it was wrong lol Now she starts right up and runs, but now I have something smoking in the dash that I need to find :( Should be easy to locate as the glove box, dash and radio are all apart right now.
 

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Smoke from the dash area is never good, keep us informed, and glad you got it sorted out on the starting issue.
 

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always monkey around moving shifter in and out of neutral and so forth in case you're having neutral safety switch issues, have had lots of issues with mine on my '67...if it's the NSS keeping you front cranking on mind you hear a funny boing type sound (like a cartoon character type sound, it's very peculiar).
 

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Smoke from the dash area is never good, keep us informed, and glad you got it sorted out on the starting issue.
Make sure the lighter is not pressed in. I never allowed tobacco use in my cars.
 

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Below is why I never bothered to reply to this thread...
GALAXIE SUDDENLY WON'T START....


Then yesterday I went to start it and nothing. Opened the door and had interior lights, clicked ignition to on and the lights were still on, clicked forward again to start and nothing... lights out, no clicks, no noises, no nothing.
I am sure that you are finally aware of how silly that seems after you read your own statement below...

So looks like the solenoid was the issue... for some reason the old one was rewired and the +/- was swapped. So when I reconnected everything as was, it was wrong lol Now she starts right up and runs, but now I have something smoking in the dash that I need to find :( Should be easy to locate as the glove box, dash and radio are all apart right now.
Something was DONE to cause the engine to NOT be allright, and that's the switched wires on the solenoid, which is technically and logically not a "all of the sudden occurrence"

See where I'm coming from?

Story is, last week it drove to work and parked fine, then wouldn't start and couldn't be jumped (although there were interior lights on). Got a new battery and it started right up, gauges and lights acted normal.
How does a car go from being Drove fine---- to ---- Suddenly won't start----- to---- the solenoid was wired up backwards-----??

OK what you forgot to do was know that everything you do needs to be remembered. That way you can back track and un-do what needs undone and make your threads easier to absorb and easier for us to help you.

You did nothing stupid, you simply went about your task in an odd manner....
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Smoke was from some wires that got super hot. Cleaned up some connections and replaced some older electrical tape. I checked the negative battery cable and it didn't look good at the post connection so I replaced that again. Headlights and other lights had been seeming a little dim to me but I thought maybe it was just the car. But now with that new negative cable everything is brighter.

The only thing 'done' to my engine between running OK and not starting was that the solenoid went out, and rather suddenly as opposed to being temperamental before going. Lat thing I did was new plugs and wires several hundred miles back. I have no idea how long it had been in the car before I got it. I still don't get how it turned out the posts were backwards on the new one vs the old one? It doesn't make any sense to me at all. I specifically unplugged/unscrewed each section one at a time to be sure I was moving things to the right place on the new one. I've found a few odd electrical setups the last owner(s?) left, like a random wire put on a fuse in the fuse box, ran back into the inside of the dash, and then cut off at the end just hanging out the bottom of the dash. I've found 9 or 10 similar wire oddities they left me, so far lol

I'm sorry if any of my statements seem 'silly' but I'm new here and not up on all the lingo/terms/typical troubleshooting methodologies. I believe the only silly question is one not asked and just tried to give what I knew of the situation the best I could. I tried to not leave anything out since sometimes the smallest detail is the real problem. My apologies to anyone who read my post and shook their head at me for wasting their time reading it, I'll try to be better and more thorough in a non-odd way next time. I do value all the suggestions received as I'm still learning the in's and out's of this car that is new to me. I find it helpful to have a lot of 'what about..'s in the memory bank.
 

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I still don't get how it turned out the posts were backwards on the new one vs the old one? It doesn't make any sense to me at all. I specifically unplugged/unscrewed each section one at a time to be sure I was moving things to the right place on the new one...

Probably your best work is not after happy hour. Happens to the best of us, not much anybody can do about it.
 

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I didn't shake my head and the only bad question is one not asked. I just saw that SOMETHING had been done to the car, otherwise the solenoid would not have been backwards...

Ya see, if it would run hooked up backwards, it would have RAN, but it did NOT until you reversed what had been done backwards.

I simply want you to remember the steps you take, take notes or pictures if you're unsure, just do it before hand so it actually helps it going back together.

Myself and Shotrod and Ggran are fairly close to you in case you ever get in a bind.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sad thing was it happened before happy hour lol Need more sleep the night before projects I suppose. I'll definitely be taking lots of photos through steps from now on, I didn't do that this time since I thought it to be 'simple' lol Lesson learned. But once that was squared away we did get the intake manifold off and the carb rebuilt, new Edelbrock Performance RPM intake manifold is back on now and just need a couple things to get the carb on. Need a new throttle shaft with the kickdown extension with this Holley 650 double pumper. I took some before and mid work shots so I'll definitely share once done! Glad to know there are some folks close by that could help in a bind :)
 

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So if it makes a boing type sound is NSS bad?

always monkey around moving shifter in and out of neutral and so forth in case you're having neutral safety switch issues, have had lots of issues with mine on my '67...if it's the NSS keeping you front cranking on mind you hear a funny boing type sound (like a cartoon character type sound, it's very peculiar).
 

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So if it makes a boing type sound is NSS bad?
you won't hear any particular sound when NSS is bad...
except engine will not crank over

not sure what banjo67 talking about..:confused:
 
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