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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I party people, I've been reading a lot of stuff that you guys discuss and have found it to be very helpfull, thanks to all of you.
I recently bought a 65 Galaxie 2dr hard top, it has a 352 4v, the thing sat for 10 year so I'm told, I did get engine running but ran into problems with the old varnish thats in the tank. I'm trying to remove the gas tank. Is there something I'm doing wrong for removing the filler neck from tank? I have pulled and pryed on the neck and it will not slip out of tank. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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The tank / neck connection is actually a "slip fit". It has an "O" ring inside the tank collar that seals against the neck where it enters the tank.

It is made of some kind asphalt mix, hard to replace and difficult to take out...especially after being in there for all these years. It is still soft and sealing, as I said, because the gas sloshing around keep it flexible... not hi-tech, but those guys back then did know a little something.

The best way to to remove the screws that hold the filler neck to the body. Open the gas door, take out (and save) all the screws, remove the collar that keeps it attached to the inside of the quarter, then drop the tank by loosening the straps. The car should be jacked up as high as you can get it.

It'll go easier if you have two guys working on it...but it isn't necessary, I was able to do it by myself. Once the tank is on the ground you will see what I am talking about...its not soldered, its just that gummy O-ring that is holding it in. Its just difficult to get any "wiggle - room" in that tight space. If you haven't done it before, its a fine dance between wiggling it out and bending the tank.

Good luck.

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"Your role may be thankless, but if you are willing to give it your all ... You just may bring happiness to those that outlast you."-- Sacrifice

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 5/2/06 1:25am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input, I have been spraying wd40 on the seal area hoping it will help slide out, just haven't had any luck seperating the two pieces. I will try today after work again.
Thanks again!
 

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There are 4 screws that hold the filler on. Once those are out the whole filler tube will slide on out! I know all about this one.
There is also another shield in the wheel well which if removed may aid in removing the filler tube.

disconnect the sender and fuel line and plug it.
Then place a jack or support under the tank loosen the 2 nuts holding the tank straps and lower it. An extra set (or two) of hands will be required if its got alot of gas in it.
 

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...give the man, some credit.

No one would try to drop a gas tank which has more than swill in the bottom.

A good floorjack and some wood blocks is enough to get it in and out in a pinch ... then there is my favorite, a few cinder blocks and a stack of cut off pieces of scrap 2X4's ... when you are poor, stubborn and deperate ... you get creative.
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Now that I have a garage and a real concrete floor to work on, I have started to get lazy and particular. I think I liked working on cars more when it was me, in the dirt and only half as many tools as I really needed. 'Course I would not want to go back to those days unless I really had to.
_________________
"Your role may be thankless, but if you are willing to give it your all ... You just may bring happiness to those that outlast you."-- Sacrifice

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 5/2/06 5:27am ]</font>
 

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On 2006-05-01 14:22, Beoweolf wrote:
...give the man, some credit.

No one would try to drop a gas tank which has more than swill in the bottom.

A good floorjack and some wood blocks is enough to get it in and out in a pinch ... then there is my favorite, a few cinder blocks and a stack of cut off pieces of scrap 2X4's ... when you are poor, stubborn and deperate ... you get creative.
.


Now that I have a garage and a real concrete floor to work on, I have started to get lazy and particular. I think I liked working on cars more when it was me, in the dirt and only half as many tools as I really needed. 'Course I would not want to go back to those days unless I really had to.
_________________
"Your role may be thankless, but if you are willing to give it your all ... You just may bring happiness to those that outlast you."-- Sacrifice

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 5/2/06 5:27am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, I finaly got the tank out, I had to spray plenty of penetrating oil and working it back and forth, side to side, the neck finaly slide out. I was really dissapointed when I looked inside the tank. There is lots of rust and even some tar like stuff in there. I'm not sure if it will be easier to try and replace or try and save it. I think I'm going to replace the sending unit. I dont see a direct replacement tank for a 65, I would assume that a 66 and 67 would be the same?
I've looked into some tank repair kits, any comments good or bad?
 

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If you intend to drive your car much, I'd suggest a '66 Galaxie tank, which holds 25 gallons, or a '67-8 tank which holds 24.5 gallons. They're a perfect fit. Be sure to use the heavier, longer tank straps original to the donor tank. The '65 straps aren't long enough for the '66-8 tanks.

Also, I put a 5/16" viewable filter inline between the fuel tank and the fuel pump to keep gas tank crud out of the fuel pump and carb. I installed mine in the rubber line at the fuel pump so I can change it quickly and easily from above. Really works well, but be prepared to change it often at first if your tank isn't new or boiled out. I've changed it 10 times or so.
 

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I love it when somebody responds who has no idea what they are talking about. I also had a terrible time getting the fill pipe free from my '65 tank. Twisting that o-ring free that has been in place for 41 years can be tough.
If your tank isn't rusted through you might try taking it to a radiator shop. They might be able to boil it out.
Putting a fuel filter on the suction side of your fuel pump can cause problems, particularly in hot weather.
 

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there is a "strainer" on the end of the factory sender unit. Some might call it a filter...the factory one was bonded to the end of the intake tube inside the tank. On some of the aftermarket ones they use a nylon "sock". It might not be thought of as a filter in the sense that is a required maintenance item, easy to replace or made of folded paper media, but filter/strainer, what ever you call it...its purpose is to keep crap out of the tube.

_________________
"Your role may be thankless, but if you are willing to give it your all ... You just may bring happiness to those that outlast you."-- Sacrifice

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 5/5/06 11:01am ]</font>
 

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the tanmk on my 65 was replaced about the time my neighbor put it in storage- and he did not keep the tank filled, so temp swings caused venting air in/out, rusted solid...looked like it was filled with cinnamon powder- like a coffeee can full. as tank was still solid/leak free, I flushed it out with phosphoric acid(metalprep) rinsed all the rust out, and coated with POR15 tank sealer- after pouring it out, brushed the poured out stuff on the outside too, looks new inside and out. my sender wasnt working, cleaned it up really well(they do come apart with patience) and the inlet tube was plugged solid- reamed it all out, put a new strainer on inlet, and put it back in- so far so good. The POR15 tank sealer really dries nice and thick- looked like should never be a problem again- but I also keep the tank near full when parked- keeps tank drier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the input! I'm in the process of getting the rust and tar out it, my brother inlaw has some of that Por15 tank repair so Im going to try it. I do have a few small holes I have to repair first.
 
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