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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As the owners of the newer vehicles with electronic controlled everything the modified car presents some issues come emissions testing time.
When we as owners mod these cars by adding CAI (Cold Air Intakes) or the numerous other mods we can do it requires us to change the programming of our PCM (Power Control Modules) or as they are also called by many as the ECM.
Most CAI's will be provided with a new "Tune" to take advantage of the increased airflow with them. If they do not then the engine will run lean due to the fuel tables programmed in the PCM are for the restrictive stock intake.
These Tunes must be programmed into the PCM using such products as the Diablo Predator, or SCT Xcal series handheld tuners to mention the most popular.
You can also get highly modified tunes for the track (Off Road Use Only) from companies for even increased performance out of the engine. Bamachips, and Brenspeed are two very popular companies that provide these.
Now we have modified our cars and love the new found power and torque.
But we have also created a problem.
Emissions Testing is going to be a problem.
With the modified tune in virtually every case the rear O2 sensors are turned off. This is done because the rear O2s are turned off in 99% of aftermarket tunes because the light will trip under load because of the increased amount of air flow through the sensors.
But this will also give you the dreaded Not Ready at the emissions test.
So the fix is simple. An Emissions tune is required.
This tune will allow you to use your CAI and Pass emissions testing when you are not at the track.
Simple?
Your not done yet.
Installing the E-Tune is simple enough with your programmer.
But now all the tests that give you the Ready for testing at the emissions station need to be completed first.
This is done by completing the "Drive Cycle".
The DC is a series of ways to drive the vehical to invoke the different tests that check the emissions components of your engine.
Here is a link to the Ford OBD drive cycle tests procedure:
http://ratstangrestoration.com/drive-cycle.pdf

Now verifiying these tests are completed requires another piece of equipment. The OBD reader.
The Handheld unit you installed your tune with will not tell you if these tests have been completed.
At least none of the ones I am aware of.
So another reader will be required.
We use this one:

But any good code reader should have this capability also.
You can also do the drive cycle tests and go to your local parts store and borrow theirs to see if you completed all the tests.
I would suggest you just buy your own. They are handy to have around and relatively inexpensive.

Here is what you are looking for:

The available Monitors will be shown for your vehicle (Monitor Tests).
The Failure codes if any (Failure Code).
And the ready or not for Emissions Tests (Ready Light).
Most readers have this setup also.
If a test has not completed the round Monitor ball will flash for that test.
If the Ready Light is red you have a failure.
If Yellow then all tests have not completed.
And Green means you are ready and all tests have completed.

Follow the Drive Cycle to the tee to make these happen.
The EVAP is the hardest to complete.
Here is a quick and dirty procedure which is a little confusing in the procedure pdf file I linked too.

The EVAP test must be completed within the first 30 minutes of operation or it will not invoke.
Starting with a COLD engine and ambient temp above 40F (40 to 100F) with 1/2 to 3/4 tank of fuel.
Load your Emissions Tune with your XC2 or Diablo, or whatever you use.
Plug in the Reader.
Turn Key ON without starting the engine.
Clear any codes and this will also reset your emission monitors to clear.
Turn Key OFF.
Turn Key ON and start the engine.
Idle 15 seconds before you do anything else.
Then go drive on a level as possible road at 40 to 55 mph for about 10 minutes avoiding sharp turns or hills that will slosh the fuel around.
A little pre-planning of your route helps here.
Use an even and slow throttle depressions to accelerate and decel.
Monitor the reader for the EVAP ball to go steady.
May take a few attempts to get this one but if you can get by EVAP the other tests are easy to get done by just popping on the freeway and driving around town.
When you have the green light and no codes your ready for emissions testing.

Hope this helps ya all out getting through it.

Rich Sr.
 

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The rear O2s don't modify the A/F at all. They are simply their to test to see if the cats are working or not. So, unless you don't have cats, no need to turn them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The rear O2s don't modify the A/F at all. They are simply their to test to see if the cats are working or not. So, unless you don't have cats, no need to turn them off.
You are correct. The reason they because the rear O2s are turned off in 99% of aftermarket tunes because the light will trip under load because of the increased amount of air flow through the sensors.

I will fix that in the post.
Thanks Bassman for keeping me spot on.

Rich Sr.
 
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