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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
According to these spec's, what is my potential ¼ mile run when it’s completely tuned?

1968 Fairlane Conv 3250lbs
347 / C4 / 9" - 4.11:1

CAMSHAFT: Comp Cams - Mech roller
RPM Range: 3,000-7,200 RPM
Int Dur @ 050 inch Lift: 248
Ex Dur @ 050 inch Lift: 254
Dur @ 050 inch Lift: 248 int./254 exh.
Adv In Dur: 286
Adv Ex Dur: 292
Adv Dur: 286 in / 292 ex
Int Lift: 0.614 in.
Ex Lift: 0.621 in.
Lobe Separation: 110

HEADS:
AFR – 210cc INT - Manley 2.05/1.6 – 58cc Comb Chamber
Slight porting, polishing, and port matching

PISTONS:
KB 709 FORGED FLAT-TOP
2 VALVE RELIEF –4.8cc

STALL – 3400 B&M
ROCKERS – CRANE 1.6
LIFTERS - CROWER
INTAKE – HURRICANE
CARB – DEAMON 750DP
HEADERS – 1 5/8 TUNED HOOKER
MUFFLERS – 3” FLOWMASTER 10 SERIES DELTA FORCE

NOS – 150HP SNIPPER

Compression ratio target: 10.9 – 11.0
Block decked to .005 above piston
Head gasket .039 compressed
The crank and rods are rated to be able to handle 600HP
 

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Low 12's, maybe break into the 11's if you can get traction, off the bottle. Cam seems a little small for those heads, but maybe it's just me. With those heads, its going to want to shift at 6500-7000 RPM to make max power with that size displacement. Those heads would be more at home on a 408. (EDIT: I think I see you planning on shifting at 7200, at least by the cam, so you should be good)

On the bottle, probably lower 11's

Just a WAG. Stout combo though.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thekingofazle on 10/17/06 7:08am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One thing I forgot;
12" wide MT slicks - 28" tall

As for the heads, this is the only thing that I haven't purchased which will be placed on order in 2-4 weeks.
I’m open for any recommendations…
 

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On 2006-10-16 17:28, GregP wrote:
That Fairlane only weighs 3250? Man that's mighty light.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing,especially a convertible..?Sounds like its going to be a screamer.You may need a lower rear end gear with the 28 inch tall tires.

_________________

J-code 306 [email protected] build underway

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: frdnut on 10/17/06 9:13am ]</font>
 

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I hope you are not using DMV weight. Rags are heavy you should find some scales and weigh it. how much do you weigh. Maa---aan weight is the enemy.
 

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at that weight, your definately in the 11's.

I know a guy that has ran an 11.3 with a similar combo (347, C4-4000stall, ported Vic Jnr's, mech flat tappet 600lift max), and his car weighs 3450lbs.

Just make sure you get the convertor and gears correct.
 

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I stand corrected I wouldnt think it was that light. Get ready for a run in with tech. convert. rule is 13.49 without a roll bar. Unless you got one in it already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is one of the greatest things that I was afraid of. The last thing I wanted to do is start hacking up the interior and limit the space even more. It would be nice if I can remove it for those days with the top down.

I was thinking of purchasing some 3" PVC and painting it black


One of the nicest things about my location is that I’m in the middle of 3 drag strips. I know one of them is pretty liberal. I guess I’ll really put it to the test next year.
 

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You start running that fast they will take notice or another driver will blow you in. I was going to see if I could run the bar with forward kickers and make it bolt together.
 

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Theres always exhaust tubing, but roll bars are generally required for a reason.

You may be able to bolt one in and take it out. With a vert that wouldn't be too terrible if it were done tastefully.
 

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RJ45lanman,
Very stout combination. I think your rear gear may be a little off with those 28 inch tires. If you had a 5 speed you would be going through the traps in 4th about 5700, below your power peak. With a C4 it's going to be getting converter slip so you will trap more then 5700 but maybe not up at your power peak. Anybody know how much a C4 converter slips?? Depending on the converter slip you might do better with a 4.30 or 4.56 rear gear. Just a thought. Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks everyone for your input.

bprigge - Instead of purchasing the new spool, I've been toying with the idea of purchasing a complete center section and set a 4.56 in it to swap at the track.
 

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RJ45lanman,
I would work the numbers out before I bought a 4.56. To do that you have to know how much your converter is slipping. A 4.30 might be a better choice depending on how much it slips. Have you had the car or motor on a dyno to find out where your power peak is at? With that cam it's gotta be way up there. A desk top dyno run would be better then no dyno run. Maybe one of the C4 experts will drop in and tell us how much those converters slip. I'm going to a 4.56 myself this winter but I run a 5 speed and know I want to trap pretty close to 6250
at 115 mph. Bruce

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: bprigge on 10/17/06 2:07pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bruce, the engine isn’t running yet. In fact, I don’t have everything to complete it yet. I’m still missing the head$, carb, and spool. If everything goes well, I’ll be taking the block in this Saturday to have the deck cut.
That is a good point, maybe I should wait to see what the actual slip is like before deciding the gear ratio.

It would be great if someone had a desktop dyno to help me out in this field.
 

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if you do the roll bar right & make the cross bar removeable/bolt-in, loss of space will be minimal. much safer to keep the bar in at all times. seen too many converts on the roof & driver messed up. not necessarily their fauly; other drivers do stupid things you cant avoid sometimes. i didnt like mine, at first, on the street, but started to realize it was smart to have it.
 

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Headers are a little on the small side, convertor is a little tight and gears a little light to. It will work but your leaving alot on the table. probably mid / upper 11's on the juice the way you have it shown (with traction) low 12's w/o

1 3/4" headers, 4000-4500 convertor (have someone build it don't buy on off the shelf) and some 4.30 or 4.56's. Maybe high 10's on the juice with the right parts....... IMO
 

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I am having a VERY hard time believing that 3250 weight figure. One thing to do is get the car together and have it weighed on a different scale.

Still, that's a strong engine, and the ride should be pretty wild! Is there any street use in the car's future?

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
dfree383
Are you recommending that I use the 1 3/4 headers, 4k stall...?

Greg
I did a little search last night because of the reactions of my weight. I found the weight averaging 3,600 - 3,900. When I get it all together, I'll take it to another a local truck stop.
As for street driving, It'll be a car to take to the local car shows and once in a while to the local drag strips. Although, at the beginning of next year, my wife and kids already know that I'm going to be living at the strip every Sunday trying to dial it in.

At one time, I may drive it 20 miles on back roads and/or 20 miles on the Interstate. I can just hear that engine purring at 60mph with a 4.56 sucking down the premium gas....
One other thing I may do if my 150HP NOS desn’t do the job is step up to the 250HP. Throughout the year though, I don't see myself going more then 20 times to the track in one summer.

If you or anyone reading this hasn’t read my posts in the past, this drive and motivation in building this engine is to race and beat my good friends 03 Vette. He used to own my Fairlane about 8 years ago. All he thinks is that I’m rebuilding my 302cid and putting a set of headers on it. I haven’t told him, but he’ll see it the day when we meet at the track, I just purchased my vanity plate that says “8A VETTE”.
 
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