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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

Is this wear considered excessive? Does this wear look normal, or is this the result of some previous owner putting the wrong starter on the car for a period of time? When last it ran, the starter made no grinding noises when starting the engine.

The picture shows the main area of wear on the flexplate, 12 teeth, ranging from 10% wear on the ends to about 40% wear for the three teeth in the middle. Oreilly's has a Pioneer brand flexplate for $50, but my concern is I might be better off trying to get 365 more starts out of this worn American-made flexplate, rather than putting in a cheap Chinese flexplate.

Is there a "sweet spot" for flexplates, maybe something made in the USA, that stores actually have in stock, that isn't made for racing, and doesn't cost $300? Thanks.
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That is borderline for my comfort zone.
Personally I'd replace it.

Don't know what's out there for decent flexplates.
I have not needed one for a long time....
 

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That is borderline for my comfort zone.
Personally I'd replace it.

Don't know what's out there for decent flexplates.
I have not needed one for a long time....
That and the starter. Old starter will chew the new flexplate up. Pioneer my not be the best of the best, but anything is better then that one.
 

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i found that pioneer listed a heavy duty one for my 289 and got it as a replacement and it looks like a quality part to me
 

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i found that pioneer listed a heavy duty one for my 289 and got it as a replacement and it looks like a quality part to me
Big difference. Try CJ Pony and some of the Mustang parts people. For standard street use, Pioneer is good stuff. Wouldn't go racing to much with it.
 

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that could be and most likely the previous owner had too much advance, and when they tried to start it would fire and come to a stop and the starter keeps going that's what happens, and that's what it looks like, my 545 blower car did that very thing to two flex plates, I had just too much motor to start normally I had to put the coil on a toggle and wait till the motor was spinning good and flip the switch never have tore one up since
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Big difference. Try CJ Pony and some of the Mustang parts people. For standard street use, Pioneer is good stuff. Wouldn't go racing to much with it.
that could be and most likely the previous owner had too much advance, and when they tried to start it would fire and come to a stop and the starter keeps going that's what happens, and that's what it looks like, my 545 blower car did that very thing to two flex plates, I had just too much motor to start normally I had to put the coil on a toggle and wait till the motor was spinning good and flip the switch never have tore one up since
Update...I went with the Pioneer, it looked and "felt" close enough to the removed flexplate, that it didn't cause me concern. It actually appears overwelded compared to the Ford, with the welds sticking out a little bit more, hopefully they won't rub on anything. If they do, I figured I could just grind them down a little bit. Good to know about that timing/flexplate issue. When I reset the timing, I'm planning on going with basic/stock settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update...I went with the Pioneer, it looked and "felt" close enough to the removed flexplate, that it didn't cause me concern. It actually appears overwelded compared to the Ford, with the welds sticking out a little bit more, hopefully they won't rub on anything. If they do, I figured I could just grind them down a little bit. Good to know about that timing/flexplate issue. When I reset the timing, I'm planning on going with basic/stock settings.
Update...Here are pictures of the old Ford, and new Pioneer/Mexico/China flexplate. The Ford had 10 spot welds, the Pioneer has 12 bead welds. Overkill, weight balancing? I used a micrometer and the Ford gear ring was .385/1000ths thick, and the top of the highest weld was .420, so it stands .035 thousands above.

The Pioneer gear ring was .395 thick, and the top of the highest weld was .495, so 100/1000ths, or 1/10th of an inch above, will this be a problem and rub or hit something?

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that's starter torque from it skipping when the motor fires it wants to kick back i ate 4 flex plates with a 3 hp power master starter on my 545 I ended up wiring the ground side of the ignition coil to a toggle never ate another plate
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
that's starter torque from it skipping when the motor fires it wants to kick back i ate 4 flex plates with a 3 hp power master starter on my 545 I ended up wiring the ground side of the ignition coil to a toggle never ate another plate
Hi, and thanks for the diagnosis. The engine/trans are back in the car, and I put the starter in last night, but nothing is wired up yet, and won't be for a while. However, I'm not sure what the purpose of the toggle switch would be...would you flip the toggle to on, turn the key, and then quickly flip the toggle to off, which cuts all electricity and forces the gear back out where it is fully disengaged? Isn't that built in, or is that the part which is failing in the starter/ignition?

For the record, I heard zero grinding noises during starts before I pulled the engine, and this starter was obviously old, but they tested it, it passed all tests, so I painted it, and put it back in the car. But that doesn't mean this starter is the one which ate up the flexplate, its teeth only showed slight wear. Isn't it possible that the original starter caused the damage when it went bad, and the previous owner just pulled an old starter from a scrapyard, and kept the flexplate because it still worked, to keep the car going? So I may be trying to fix a problem I don't even have?

Is there any way to test this, short of just starting the engine, which is weeks away at best. And when I do start it, it will be using a remote starter switch. Also, I've left the inspection plate off the transmission to have a look-see after the first start.
 

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Hi, and thanks for the diagnosis. The engine/trans are back in the car, and I put the starter in last night, but nothing is wired up yet, and won't be for a while. However, I'm not sure what the purpose of the toggle switch would be...would you flip the toggle to on, turn the key, and then quickly flip the toggle to off, which cuts all electricity and forces the gear back out where it is fully disengaged? Isn't that built in, or is that the part which is failing in the starter/ignition?

For the record, I heard zero grinding noises during starts before I pulled the engine, and this starter was obviously old, but they tested it, it passed all tests, so I painted it, and put it back in the car. But that doesn't mean this starter is the one which ate up the flexplate, its teeth only showed slight wear. Isn't it possible that the original starter caused the damage when it went bad, and the previous owner just pulled an old starter from a scrapyard, and kept the flexplate because it still worked, to keep the car going? So I may be trying to fix a problem I don't even have?

Is there any way to test this, short of just starting the engine, which is weeks away at best. And when I do start it, it will be using a remote starter switch. Also, I've left the inspection plate off the transmission to have a look-see after the first start.
The toggle switch is to turn the ignition OFF, but still allow the engine to crank over.

Flip the toggle to PREVENT the engine from starting, then after the starter has the engine cranking for a few seconds,
Flip the toggle ON, and it fires right up with less chance of "kickback" that can damage the starter and flywheel/flexplate teeth.
 

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The toggle switch is to turn the ignition OFF, but still allow the engine to crank over.

Flip the toggle to PREVENT the engine from starting, then after the starter has the engine cranking for a few seconds,
Flip the toggle ON, and it fires right up with less chance of "kickback" that can damage the starter and flywheel/flexplate teeth.
This. But in my experience, mainly only necessary with high compression and/or initial timing way advanced (e.g. locked).

Pat
 

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try a compression test and see what pressure you have (wet) then check your TRUE timing at -0- degrees one of these is you issue id almost put money on it, you dont half to have locked timing either lets say you vac/mech dizzy is curved with 20 deg of advance and you balancer is off 5 degrees when you set initial at 10 you are actually at 15 deg that's now 25 total distributor, i believe so when the advance comes in at 2800-3000 and you turn the dizz to 36 total guess where you are at idle not 16 your at 21 forgive me it my compupa calcula addy is wrong but you get the idea of too much advance
set true tdc
with a piston stop for the spark plug hole rotate to the right mark the balancer, rotate to the left mark the balancer, measure that distance on the balancer and divide it in half. that mark is true tdc -0- degrees and should be the same as the balancer -0- degrees if not the balancer is off and the dizzy is way advanced giving you the kick back or flywheel drag, and if your static wet compression is over 175-200 pre-ignition all you need to do is remark the balancer with a msd timing tape.
 
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