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I was thinking about running Hard Block in the engine I'll be putting in the mustang this summer...

It's just a 302 (Mexican block), and will be spinning around 7200 rpm on the bottle. My current engine was stressing the block to it's limits, so any way to strengthen it would help. The last engine was not filled, and did not have a girdle... just ARP main studs and a prayer, to help the stock block, crank and rods stay intact and in their places.

I'm not sure if the main girdles are just a gimmick, or if they are actually effective... I was thinking about going with one, along with a partial fill.

Any advice or opinions on a girdle?

As for the fill, I was going to clean the water passages with Muratic acid and scrub it really well, then torque the mains and heads while it cured... and do it all before the machine work on the block was done.

As for the filling, should I let the block sit in it's regular position while it's being filled, or rotate the block to get each deck level with the ground before filling? I guess this way, you'd have to do one side, let it set up, then do the other...

Is an oil cooler really going to be needed if good synthetic oil is used, and it only sees street and strip duty?

Thanks!
 

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One of the latest Mopar magazines has an article on block filling. You should try to find it and read up on the subject. I believe it will answer all of your questions.
 

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Here's a dumb question: if you fill the water passages with filler, I understand how that strengthens the block, but how do you then cool the block? How else is the engine getting cooled if you're not running water through the passages? I've never understood that.
 

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you don't fill all the way.only 1/4 to 1/3.
main girdles work well.i'm getting a 333(.040 over)done now.i'm hardblocking as above and using a DSS girdle. i used this girdle on a 306 (no block fill) with stock crank , rods,srp's([email protected] n/a )plus a 300 big shot.i ran @ 20 bottles through it B4 i blew a head gasket.when i tore it down...the wrist pins and pistons were paperweights...but big ends of the rods and crank and mains were a ok.i'm using JE,eagle forged rods and crank this time.i'm shooting for 380-400 RWHP on motor on this one with a NX gemini 2 stage for later. oh, and praying my quest for HP doesn't split the block in half. there are a few guys using a hard blocked motor on the street around here and are not really having any/many cooling issues.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: noslofoord on 4/24/02 11:18pm ]</font>
 

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The HardBlock is a good idea(may help block from splitting down the middle) and to the bottom of the water pump holes with each deck surface level with ground. Do one side, let setup and tilt the block to the other side(deck parallel to ground). Vibrate the hell out of the block after pouring it in to make the filler settle into all the tiny nooks and crannies. An air hammer with large diameter blunt tip to contact the block but not damage woks perfect. The bores will distort once the filler has set up and let sit for at least 25-30 days before having any machine work done. By then it has shifted and expanded all it's going to. Main guirdle I think make more of a difference on a 289/302 than a 351 or larger from the fragile little block they are and those small caps and main bolt size. I would say definitely use the main guirdle and you should have one stout shortblock able to handle the power aside from the small main caps but nothing you can do there that's cheap. An oil cooler is not needed especially with the synthetic oils which can tolerate more heat. Oil coolers are a restriction and some more than others. They might help to lower overall water temps if you water temp is high but only a little.

Use the guirdle, fill each side of block with decks level to the ground with block fill to the bottom of water pump holes or just below, and think twice about getting an unnecessary oil cooler.
 
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