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Discussion Starter #1
Do I need a special installer to put on the harmonic dampener on my 289?

Or is there another way?
 

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It can take quite a bit of force to install a damper on the crank and get it to fully seat.

Small block Chevy's have a really small 3/8" or 7/16" shank bolt, where small block Fords have a huge 5/8" shank bolt.

Damper installation tools were originally designed for the Chevy, because the bolt would often break when trying to get the damper to fully seat against the crank. You can purchase installers for Fords as well, but I've never had a problem seating the damper with that big 5/8" bolt.

If the threads in the crank or the bolt itselt are in bad shape or rusty, you might want to consider one, but otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. To be extra safe, I do run a tap through the crank to clean its threads and then brush off the bolt's threads before installation. I also lube up the crank snout and the inside of the damper with oil. If it sticks really bad for any reason, stop and see what the problem is.

I'm sure the factory just slams them on with an air wrench.


Good Luck!
 

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My stock balancers have gone on with the bolt method just fine. My fluid filled balancer didn't have the end honed out larger to slide it on by hand. I had to go out and by the tool.
 

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I know YOU won't, but somebody might read this thread, and just assume.
NEVER, as in NEVER install them with a block of wood and hammer/maul.
 

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I'm keeping a tight grip on my zipper so I don't get into a pissing match here........Don't know how they do it around where you are, but only the hacks around here that claim to be mechanics use the hammer/beat it on/trash thrust bearing method!!!!
 

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Tap the threads if needed ... Coat the snout with "antiseize" (moly)... Impact wrench it on until properly seated ... Done deal



_________________

Larry Madsen
Las Vegas Nevada



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: monstermach on 1/11/02 10:10am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: monstermach on 1/11/02 10:11am ]</font>
 

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I helps to put the balancer in boiling water and coat the crank snout with antiseize. The balancer will go on much easier if heated up first and tightening the bolt to seat it is very easy. The heated balancer inside diameter enlarges a little making it much easier to install.
 

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If none of the above methods work and this is a one time install, consider renting an installation tool. Most of the Autozones and other parts stores have these for rent.
 

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I have to do this!!! lol:
Here is what you need to install the balancer. (1) 4x4 piece if pressure treated lumber approximatley 12" long.(Size does matter!)Must be green so it will not split!! (1) 5lb. hammer with short handle. (1) friend to hold the block of wood. Place block on end of balancer. Swing hammer with enought force to seat it with one swing. Hit it again to make sure it is seated. Install bolt, you are done.
This procedure works well if you initally do not have enought crankshaft end play!!!
:
 

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Don't use the piece of wood. It's way more fun if you just beat on the balancer and mushroom the raised part around the center so you can't get the pulleys on
 

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Isn't it easier to grind the snout of the crank instead of Hone the damper?

Oh ... if you don't use the little keyway alignment insert ... The damper will go on easier too ... Won't need to bother aligning anything


Hmmm ... Where did the good advice end??
 

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"Paw used ta let tha mule kick it on" I guess ya kinda had to grow up where I did to hear that one.
 

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Just beat the "living snot" out of it with a F-n big hammer!


If it doesnt go on just do what Greg Cooks banner says "if it doesnt go dont force it,get a bigger hammer!"

Just kidding,dont beat on it at all,it will mess up the thrust bearing play.


When I used to rebuild engines at a shop,we would heat up the dampeners in a oven a little bit then they would slide right on.
 
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