Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
definately good info but just not for me at this time on this car anyway. if i had a mint car with an isolated rust issue, and more money than metal...

my roof was destroyed all the way to the headliner, the inner structure was crumbled as bad or worse than the outside. if i hadn't cut into it and found that, the roof woulda separated itself at the factory seams after the paint job

cool technology though, who'da thunk it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,299 Posts
Yeah, even with plasma spray, supports and sub-panels must still be there and working. It's not total magic. The process is expensive in itself, but generally much cheaper overall, especially if you're having to pay for bodywork after patching to blend it all together. Also note that cars or panels having more than a few holes filled here and there are generally dipped first, removing all rust, paint, undercoating, and dirt from everywhere on the car, so the metal is already prepped everywhere for repair using whatever method.

If looking in your area, you can search for plasma spray or plasma metal repair.

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
thanks FE&>$, this is just a beer can & shingle resto... matter of fact i did use a smashed down aluminum can as a backup when i welded up the holes for the FORD chrome across the header, & some PO used shingles for sound deadener on the floors

i been hackin on the fenders today, darn hot out there too.
turns out what i thought was identical metal is a little different, the arc of the hood at the fender line is flatter in 79 than it was in 72. i don't think i ever realized that the 77-9's were so much wider either but that's not gonna be a problem, i'm only using 1" of 79 fender to adhere to. thinkin about trimmin it down to 3/4" or a 1/2". when it's done someday it'll be what it is, i think i'm gonna rename it from 'the Turd' to 'Patches'


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #25


i fought with a few stubborn bolts today, and i found rust in the cowl too

so the next step is gonna be to strip the firewall, column supports, brake booster/master, heat box, wiper motor & linkage... i might have to cut the cowl open? wouldn't be fun otherwise i guess

then when it goes back together i'll put in my manual steering box, clutch pedal & floor shift steering column supports & maybe just a manual master cylinder the way it was in the other car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
more rust to fix all around the firewall, floors & cowl. no way around it, everything's gotta come out





i found the mystery piece that i pulled from my 72 Q code Torino with manual brakes. i wonder if the pedal supports are manual/power brake specific?



i guess all the firewalls were punched for a power booster, the cast adapter fills the gap, & the pedal rod is part of the master

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
i made the new hat from a 6" dovetail vent take-off, it almost fit perfect but i had to add a small piece. then i did some rust treatment & started laying down some fiberglass

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
time to get this phase done already!

after building up some low areas to smooth the drainage flow, i sprayed black paint on top of a wet fiberglass resin 'wash' in hopes that the paint won't ever peel

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
thanks, just tryin to keep it around a little longer... without my feet getting wet!

the inside of the cover is now rust treated, rust & extra holes including a couple that take oval rubber plugs are closed up, and it's got a couple coats of Black Epoxy paint on it, i hit the bare metal around the edges on the cowl with Weld Through Coating, ready to tack back on i guess?

 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top