Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 67 custom 62b and it has a 545 blown fuel injected motor and custom trans, I have a tds 6061 (' with 31"x 17.5 tires ladder bars coil overs has anyone tubbed one of these galaxies and if so can you provide some guidance
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I have a 67 custom 62b and it has a 545 blown fuel injected motor and custom trans, I have a tds 6061 (' with 31"x 17.5 tires ladder bars coil overs has anyone tubbed one of these galaxies and if so can you provide some guidance
You're going to need to back-half the car for that size tire. Notching the frame won't get you there. Just bite the bullet and cut the whole frame off at the torque boxes and install a 2 x 4 back-half kit. If you've already got the 4 link, you're half way there!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I purchased a Alston rear ladder bar frame clip or section 24" wide, I picked up two sheets of .040 4 x 10 sheet metal, I ordered two 34" wheel tubs I all ready have the rear coil overs and 32" ladder bars. and I picked up the extra roll bar tubing to go to the main hoop back to the rear rails I have new ladder bar brackets and new set of coil over brackets and I have the complete t6061 ford 9" I ever have a new rivet gun new air shears new nibbler and a laser tape I literally believe I have everything to this I am just edgy on cutting the whole back section of the flooring out clear back to the tail light panel I know once I start doing this I am burning bridges
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
i started to do the back half on the custom 500, so I fired up the plasma cutter and went to work, it was relatively easy cutting it up and making all the required cuts from the paper work from Alston the kit could have been made out of thicker materiel but we will see how it goes I have the cross member tacked in place and I have the main rails cut and set into place, but they are however a bit short "custom fab to fit kit" so instead of going all the way to the tail light panel I am having to keep a small section of both right and left rear frame rails to install a crossmember on and weld the ladder bar frame rails to that, I have ot cut the rails out yet because I am trying to maintain some rigidity of the body, once I have the main crossmember and the rails done I will cut out the old rails, there will be more to come this is just where I ended up today.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
okat day two,, I finished the install of the main frame section, how ever with this this kit from hiedts, the Alston AL-102113 the direction and blue prints have a couple errors I found so far, first in the description it says the rails on the inside should be 22 inches and the blue print shows 24 inches, all the cross members measure 24 so I called and they were surprised to see I was right, so we decided with the cross members being 24 to go with the 24 inches, second in the description again it says to measure 34 inches forward from the axle center line and the real face of the cross member with line up with that mark, okay did all that, then I came to the part where it is calling for the ladder bar brackets to be welded in at the rear face of the cross member to the outside of the rear rail, but I could not get them to fit snugly to the area so I broke out the measuring tape again and blue prints and on the blue prints it shows the cross member rear face at 32 inches so in order to get the ladder bar brackets to line up at 32 inches from the axle center line I had to move them 2 inches not a big deal but if I didn't catch it my axle would be 2 inches to far forward, also the " universal kit" does not fit the length of the rear part of a full size car, its about 10 inches short, so I cant weld it to the rear tail light panel, I will be leaving in about 2 feet of the trunk frame rails to install a cross member to connect the rear frame section to the panel, again not a big deal but more fab work and more welding, I haven't went and cleaned any welds yet or anything, I did burn up my last plasma cutter tips so I will be waiting on those to show before I cut the old rails out, I will try to keep as much as the rear outer fender wells as possible, just will depend on the wheel tubs, also I may half to get rid of my trunk hinges, and I will half to figure out what to do with the deck lid at that point, but below is some pictures for everyone to beat me up with lol.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Looking good so far! I'm interested to see what you end up doing with the trunk lid and how you tie into your existing roll cage. Keep it up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
well today I put in the rear bars from the main hoop but I put them on there own cross member because I didn't want to cut out the rear speaker deck, leaving it will just help keep the body stiff, right now the main hoop and the rear bars make 6 points . the main hoop is welded to the cars frame, the ladder bar cross member is welded to the frame . the floor will be welded to the cross member it is very ridged now, I took some measurements and let the back of the car down and set it on stands to check the drive shaft articulation and nothing flexed, I still half to install the non competition door bars from the main hoop to the frame, I did half to go buy a new welder my old Chicago 151 dual gun broke and for another 120 buck I could get a welder so I got a 171 and im trying to dial it in to as I go, I will venture to say from what I estimate some measurement at my axle lengths are going to be about 20 inches longs, as for the sheet metal I bought 2 8 x 10 galvanized 40 thousands sheets and I picked up some grey seam sealer for the wheel tubs, below is a couple of photos of today we didn't do much but as I go I will post.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
and as for the trunk hinges you did ask about that , I will remove my gas struts and of course there are no springs in the hinges and I will just leave them as a free no resistance hinge and come up with a prop rod system, right now with the gas struts on there they flex about 1/2 inch and over time that will break something and this particular car is a 62b they only made I believe from the sheet I read was 19k in the u.s. and 19k in Canada, making this model kind of rare (lol and I'm cutin it up ..nice lol) it is VERY hard to get body and glass for it, for instance I searched for 3 months till I found 1 windshield out west glass alone was 500.00 but that's it for now ill be doing more work on it tomorrow as we are all at stay at home orders for the corona virus and i am in the rural part of TN and a hour to anywhere this will keep me buisy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
okay today we were finally able to install the front ladder bar brackets and again the Alston instruction and blue prints are off by 2 inches there also,, wth is with the 2" difference everywhere,,, but we found where they should go to put the axle center line we marked on the car before we started, now I did call Louie at speakeasy parts and the axle pinion is off set by 2 5/8, tonight I will get my wheel width from back of rim to back of rim, and he will get me all the measurements to cut the rear axle tubes so the pinion will be at center I only expect this 9" to be around 40" wide but we will see below are some pics of the ladder bars they are jegs 32" bars.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
okay today we put in the front non competition door bars, those were pretty straight forward didn't take long, I also spoke with Loui at speakeasy garage and he gave me my rear end width, it will be from axle face to axle face 45 inches also these are the big axles 35 spline going into a 6 gear tuque worm carrier in a 6061 billet center section with the extended 6061 billet Daytona pinion support, now with the pinion being off set 2 5/8 my passenger side axle will be 24" and the driver side 19 7/8 then you have the brake spacing of 2 1/2 per side lugs are 1/2 1/4 20 tires are 31x17.5 mickeys on 15 x 15 rims I think tomorrow we will work on putting the seats back in and carpet to where we need to be to start the flooring and after that we will half to see where to go next ,I'm thinking wheel tubs, they are the jegs brand or may finish up the rear axle depending on f the axles show up by then, below is the non competition door bars.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
hello, today we did a little sheet metal work the jegs wheel tubs didn't work out to well so we made some out of 40 thousands galvanized sheet, we also did the rear part of the trunk floor, we used 3/16 pop rivets for every thing, we will go back and do all the seams with seam sealer or fiber glass we will probably glass all the seams and paint it all black.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
okay today we did a few hrs on it, I am at a point where we need to finish the axle up and install it, once that is done then we can get the coil over mounts in the shocks, we also half to wait on the trans cooler, I cant do the floor on the inside because I need access to the rear axle, so we installed the 25 gal fuel cell both primary and secondary 5 psi lift pumps, everything is riveted in except the cell it can be unbolted, the floor did get some fiberglass on the seams and the rest we used the jegs sheet metal seam sealer, probably wont be much in next few day axles aren't due to show till Tuesday 14th then we can start narrowing the tubes and building up the axles and get it in the car :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
today we narrowed or started narrowing the rear end, there rear is a 6061 billet piece except for the tubes they are steel bolt on and press in with a O-ring, the ends are the big ford Torino style from strange and the gear is a 4;30 on a 6 helical gear 35 spline torque worm 6 helical gear unit , now from flange face to face is 40" and after the axles are installed you add 2.5 inch per side that's 45" wide, the wheel back space is 5 1/8 minus 2.5 per side then add back the neg off set from the side wall to wheel face that is 12" put my whole assy with a centered pinion from side wall to side wall 60" that mathematically puts my side wall about 2" inside the fender lip, once I gave speak easy my wheel face width they gave me all the measurements on where and what to do my right side axle will be 24" the driver side will be 19 7/8 we will see once the axles show and I get them built and installed I can bolt the wheels to it and see where every thing is so till next time happy Easter be safe
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
okay today we finished up narrowing the rear axle, and put brakes on it as stated before the axle is a speed master tds piece, it has a 6061 carrier steel tubes with a 430 gear, and a 6 helical worm gear posi true trac with a billet Daytona pinion support, the axles are forged steel 35 spline axles, the drivers side is about 19" and the passenger is around 24, over all the axle is 45 inches wide, it has jegs disc 11" brakes, it is a new style big ford bearing 3.150 tube end, so this should be very durable for what I a will use the car for, next we will put brake lines on it and start working under the car with it to get the ladder bars, and coil over stuff lined out, so here is some pics of the finished axle and I will give updates as we get stuff done thanks be safe,.,.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Reading and following this post gives me such feelings of incompetency (on my end not yours!)!!!
I'm busting my noggin' worrying about a heater box backer board. This guy gets more done in an hour than I do in a year.

This is a wild project. I've got a 66 Custom 500 2 door. I'm pretty sure it'll never look like that!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
thanks lol, im 52 and been playing with cars, trucks, heavy trucks, bikes, and aircraft, my whole life it all started when I was 10 or 12 just watching and listening to my piers, and accumulating the tools and equipment ,its just what I love to do, I always like to help people out best I can and do post like this because if we don't this art may die, so if we put it on the innerweb it will be there for who ever seeks it out, plus I'm retired and we are all on lock down for the covid 19 so it keeps me busy, but as far as your back board I believe you are talking about behind the heater box if its just a backing and if its smooth (im not sure exactly what it is) but use sheet metal and make one up. and I never intend for any of my projects to get this wild but they usually do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,738 Posts
Reading and following this post gives me such feelings of incompetency (on my end not yours!)!!!
I'm busting my noggin' worrying about a heater box backer board. This guy gets more done in an hour than I do in a year.

Everyone is at different levels. If you accomplish something new you will always be better than you were ?
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top