Did the fluid drain out od the tube and hose or from the case?
If the fluid came from the vacuum line then you need to replace your modulator. If fluid came out of the case or the case side of the modulator you are ok.
Yep! anytime. That case has tranny fluid everywhere and it is going to run out when you pull the modulator or a servo cover or any part that exposes the inside oil to the outside world. If it is leaking at the hose or hose end of the modulator - THAT is when you need a new modulator.
Glad to save you the cost of a modulator.
How is the modulator adjusted i know with the screw but wich way does what?... and i was thinking of gettin a new one because when i got the tranny the lil rod that goes from the modulator was bent but i straightened it dunno why it was bent. Tranny just doesnt seem to wanna shift feels like im in one gear all the time i really dont know wats wrong with it.
I adjusted the modulator today and i had the car on jack stands.. yea i know dangerous but its not tagged so i had to test it out sumhow. Put it in drive i could feel it shift one time but not again, put it in 1st bumped it to 2nd nothing bumped it to drive and it shifted im lost on this thing lol can sumone help, or try to. Im not too smart on tearing into trannys.
On stands your transmission will shift into second almost as fast as it turns a tire - there is no load so it shifts early.
To make the car shift later you screw the adjustment clock-wise like you are tightening a screw. DO NOT turn the screw any more than four turns in either directions from the center point. You can only change the part throttle shift points by about 8 mph with the modulator. It is better to let your tranny shift early at part throttle and let the governor handle those full throttle shifts at 4400 to 5800 rpm.
Before you make any adjustments make sure that your downshift linkage is properly adjusted and that you are getting wide open throttle when you push the gas pedal to the floor. (check these with the engine off while sombody pushes the gas pedal to the floor and see if the throttle plates on the carb go wide open. Then check the down-shift linkage for .060" free-play at the adjusting screw with the throttle held open and the kick-down rod fully depressed.
If these are adjusted correctly then you can play with the modulator adjustment. if they are out of adjustment playing with the modulator is just not going to solve the problem. Tests of changes have to be done with the car on the road - not on the stands.
My car a 69 Mustang 302 has a hotter cam. The shift point is original from 2-3 about at 4000 rpm. The Engine has potentzial for moore power. How can I change the shift points for higher rpm`s shift points ?
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