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Discussion Starter #1
I am sure someone on here has experience. :) I'm still compiling parts for my 390 stroker build and am wondering which route to go. Should I get these:

Edelbrock # 60069 Ford FE 390-428 Performer RPM Aluminum Cylinder Head 72CC

Or a different one? OR... should I even bother to spend the time and money on my factory C8AE heads?

I welcome your knowledge.

The cam will be around .656 in, .676 exh at the valve. Dual quads on an Edelbrock air-gap RPM in take and Harland-Sharp needle bearing rocker set-up, hydraulic roller lifters - probably as it MAY be a daily driver or may not; but not opposed to solid rollers. It will depend on my mood. Rollers either way. Scat stroker kit (431 cid unless I change my mind to get the 445 instead - hard decision)

So..as you can see, I will need to flow some decent numbers. What do I need to get and have done to allow this?
 

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How much money do you have?

If I was you I would get into a set of the edelbrocks slightly beefed from survival or the like with a bigger valve and bowl work. They pick up quite a bit. I would have custom ground cam cut. End support stands for the rockers. And maybe an intake offering from dove.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I want to run dual quads, I just really like the look of them. I am not opposed to other options as far as manufacturer. I am in no real hurry so money , depending on amount, is of no big issue. What I cannot afford now, I can save for while I chug away at the rest of the car. I do need the fuel delivery system to sit comfortably below a stock hood though. The harland sharp set I am getting is the best they have with needle bearings instead of bushings and come with better shaft and new stands and end caps/stands as well. the rocker assembly set is around $1700.

H&M dual quad medium riser for $725. Doesn't have their logo on it. Wondering why though.

Can I fit the tunnel-wedge dual quad set-up under my stock hood? I don't see any height specs.
http://www.carlsfordparts.com/main.html
 

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Can you give all your cam specs? That sounds like a serious cam for a street FE using only lift numbers

Also, what brand of headers do you plan to run? Headers from a C8AE-H head will not seal against a CJ style head like the Edelbrocks. They will bolt up, but the port is in a different location

The needle bearing Harland Sharps could be overkill, but they are good, need to get a good idea on the whole build.

Also, compression, bore, stroke, etc. I have done a few of these at this point and will try to help all I can.

BTW, who are you using for a machine shop? I lived in Yorktown for 3 years and did not like Apple Machine's work, I used Dunkums in Hampton for my 489 and they really do nice work. I didnt use them for assembly, but every bit of machine work was spot on and I am very fussy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you give all your cam specs? That sounds like a serious cam for a street FE using only lift numbers

Also, what brand of headers do you plan to run? Headers from a C8AE-H head will not seal against a CJ style head like the Edelbrocks. They will bolt up, but the port is in a different location

The needle bearing Harland Sharps could be overkill, but they are good, need to get a good idea on the whole build.

Also, compression, bore, stroke, etc. I have done a few of these at this point and will try to help all I can.

BTW, who are you using for a machine shop? I lived in Yorktown for 3 years and did not like Apple Machine's work, I used Dunkums in Hampton for my 489 and they really do nice work. I didnt use them for assembly, but every bit of machine work was spot on and I am very fussy
I planned on Dunkum's. I actually used to live near them for a while, as I work at the shipyard. I am looking at either the 431 or 445 stroker kit. Here are the links to both.
Ford Engine Kit - Ford FE Stroker Kit, 390 FE, 428 FE, 416, 428, 431, 442, 445, 455, Stroker

HR- 234/354- 2S- 12 camshaft - Fd. FE 352- 428 V8 63- 76

I will drive it on the street. daily driver IF I happen to feel like it. BUT, I will at some point track it for fun. I am not sure how often though.

Headers are undetermined currently. I am open to aftermarket heads,. I have a complete extra 390 to build and will probably save my original engine for a just in case and/or restoration purposes should I ever go that route.
 

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After doing a few of these, I see no reason to go anything less than a 445. There is absolutely no downside to the longer stroke, an FE has tons of room and the rod/piston combo is pretty light

Does the Coast High kit come balanced? If not I'd consider buying from Survival, he does a lot more of these and recently he has had pistons made with more efficient ring packs as well as selling them balanced.

Just remember, buy the headers after you choose a head, or pick a header and buy after market or rebuild yours to match. Flanges are different as well as port locations, some guys think its just a bolt pattern thing, its more than that, 67-up heads, except for CJs have a port that is .250 lower. Using the wrong headers will bring header leaks that are unfixable without modifying the headers.
 

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Talk to Barry at Survival, he can set you up with a good combo for what you are doing with the car. His new heads are showing great numbers as well. He has built alot of these motors in every configuration you can imagine and knows what works and what doesn't. I would also recommend something different that the Edelbrock intake, as then you are limited to running edelbrock carbs and can't run any ford 2x4 air cleaners.
 

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Clegg has the stroker kit for $1700, flat top pistons to match your cam's CR requirements and internally balanced. FORD FE - 9000 CAST CRANK - 390 MAIN (431CI) - I-BEAM RODS - STREET & STRIP - FE Ford | Cast Crank - Ford - Stroker Kits. I have done business with Clegg and they were straight up. Did not get a stroker kit but like others here, that does not stop me from making a recommendation :)

Can't help you with your question on heads though.
Not bad pricing there if their balancing is good. I buy my stuff directly from multiple sources and my recent 445 was 1450 before balancing, with Probe dished pistons for 9.8:1, Scat I beam crank and rods, and Mahle rings, but I am including the gasket set as well.

I didn't see a 4.25 crank listed, just want to reiterate, VERY few guys go with the short stroke, go 4.25, extra cubes are extra power and unlike some other engines, the FE has lots of room for stroke

I think I had a little more in the Mustang, but it was almost 7 years ago and I run H-beam with custom sized Diamond pistons/low tension rings in that motor, so the individual pieces were a bit more
 

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Now I heard that the stroker kit sellers bought those Scat cranks already internally balanced from Scat, then just add the rods and pistons with matching weights to finish the balance and call it good.

The image of a crank with the rods and pistons attached and spinning around (measuring centrifugal force?) is for the Datona 500 builders, not the balance you get for $150. Probably still worth $150 though because if you weigh it yourself you can't just swap out a heavy rod with a lighter one from inventory, you gotta grind..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a set of Edelbrock 60069 heads with about 100 hours on them that someone has offered for $1000. Would these do what I am looking to do? If so, I am considering the purchase for sure, considering that the price is low compared to new.

Also, whichever stroker kit I go with, I am leaning toward all internally balanced components. The first kit I listed has and additional internal balancing fee. I am surely not opposed to bigger cubes. I will be running a 4 core 3/8 - 5/8" tube down flow radiator (cosmetically stock - my original tanks). I figure between $1600-1900 for the kit.
 

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Just because a Crank is internally pre-balanced does NOT mean it is going to be balanced with 8 connecting rods and pistons connected to it, that's why the ENTIRE rotating Assy (rods-pistons-flywheel-crank-clutch assy) goes to the balance guy, I even have a local guy that is going to start balancing all my Cam Shafts also. I want a sewing machine for a motor :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can you give all your cam specs? That sounds like a serious cam for a street FE using only lift numbers
The needle bearing Harland Sharps could be overkill, but they are good, need to get a good idea on the whole build.
I guess my whole goal is to build this strong and pretty much as bullet-proof as I can---THE FIRST TIME. Thus- the Harland sharps Needle bearing set. Now worries and as little friction as possible on the Valve train. I do like to rev things pretty high from time to time. That is what prompted my head choice question. My cam choice will require a good flow rate and strong characteristics to enable me to make it worth while in the build. Will those edebrock heads enable me to do this?

FE- That makes total sense to me. I do want this to be as smooth as it can be and have a decent amount of life as well.
 

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on another note, the heads I offered you have the valves they came with (I think they are good to .600?).
If you are going to be running that kind lift you'll need valves that'll suit the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Pick your CAM profile according to the intake flow capability, and port your heads to work for it :)
See, that makes sense. I guess the point I am trying to convey is that I am reverse engineering this to where I have selected the cam and am seeing what I need to do to support that. Kind of backwards, I know. I want WOT power as well as a nasty curb idle lobe and and I would rather have a bigger cam than I want - so to speak, than build it and be disappointed and either tear it back down or just have to settle. End result - I want over 500hp and well over 500 ft/lbs at the crank. Funny yes, just my goal. So - All that being mentioned, will the heads I mentioned flow what I would have to flow to support the lift and duration without cutting it short of supply? I can get other valves, but what is involved in that - to reworked an aluminum head for larger/shorter valves? Should I just get a different one? Need some direction on this my fellow FE friends.
 

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IMO Its well worth buying jay's FE book and also barry's book .... You can see almost every combo of parts and what they dyno at . You can see what gaskets to use ,what headers do what ect ... Its VERY good information. I wish I would have got them sooner....

500hp with a Fe stroker and eddy 60069 heads is easy.. Just need a big wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks so much for the info. Seems as though it is a must have for my build.
 

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just having the book can get you 50-100hp just by not making a combo mistake. I was lucky and asked alot of questions and read every internet post for weeks before. I still made some small errors.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
don't you have the 431? How satisfied are you with the outcome? Have you had it dynoed yet?
 
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