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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to reseal my lower head studs on the drivers side. I was going to loosen all of the studs and remove the lower ones one by one and add a bunch od thread sealant.

The big question - do I need to pull the intake?

The small question - what sealer should I use? The stuff I used during assembly didn't work too well.
 

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Don't do it like that.

Reply with what engine and which gaskets were used when it was assembled. Then tell me how long it's been running since re-build.

Look Paul/Pete/Penelope/Patrick/Perry/Peggy/Pablo/Pedro/Padme/Patti/Pamela/Pancho/Parker/Perry/Percival/Penrod or Peyton, whatever you may be called...
I HIGHLY recommend that you do it correctly bu removing the heads and running a nice tap into each hole then blowing them out clean, and start over by useing a decent head bolt thread sealer like Permatex, Loc-Tite, or even Indian Head Gasket Schellac (My favorite) but to keep the integrity of your build you should do it this way or you'll have the issue of getting more foreigh material down into each bolt hole and therefore acheiving an in-accurate torque setting for each bolt... (it may not be a LOT of diffrence but any diffrence is a lot to me...)

FE
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The engine has maybe 100 miles on it. The heads are Edelbrock Performer RPM and the block is a 96 5.0 bored .020 over built as a 331 stroker. The Head gaskets are Fel-Pro 1011.

I don't see how I will have torque setting issues since I have studs.
 

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If it were me, I would remove one stud at a time, reseal with indian head sealer which is what I use, and retorque each stud when it is reinstalled. If they still leak then you can remove the heads and do the tap deal.

I would not remove the heads unless it's absolutely necessary; doing so will mean all new gaskets and lots more work. Just do the studs one at a time, you might want to drain the radiator as well and make sure the threads are dry. I like to coat the bolt with the sealer, then run it into the block and pull it back out and recoat it again, just to make sure you are getting the threads in the block coated as well.

As far as worrying about accurate torque values, I would not lose any sleep over it. My father has done headgaskets many times, in fact just last week he replaced the head on a 96 f150. He doesn't use any type of lube on bolts and torques everything with an ancient harbor freight $20 torque wrench. I try to tell him but he has that attitude that it's not really important. Not surprisingly, he's never seem to have had any problems.
 

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Your idea is correct. I would do one stud at a time. I prefer ARP stud sealant, which is pretty much just teflon pipe dope. Torque each one back to the original setting. Then once you're done, I would retorque the whole head, including the studs you didn't touch. You should be good to go.
 

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What are you trying to seal - the bolt holes should be blind in the block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On 2006-09-20 07:36, ckelly wrote:
What are you trying to seal - the bolt holes should be blind in the block.
The lower head bolts on a 5.0 block go into the water jacket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On 2006-09-20 01:58, mikemustang289 wrote:

you might want to drain the radiator as well and make sure the threads are dry. I like to coat the bolt with the sealer, then run it into the block and pull it back out and recoat it again, just to make sure you are getting the threads in the block coated as well.
That's a good tip.
 

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Interesting - because they don't on the eariler blocks.
 

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Definately need to drain the block!
 

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becareful when torqing th studs,i found hair line cracks in my block,i dont think i over torqed,but i dont know why the block cracked,it was the top head bolt holes
 

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Aren't the studs suppose to go in hand tight? The torque is applied to the nut which then clamps down on the head. I don't think you would torque the studs down to specs and then tighten the nut also to specs, that's wrong.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Tony,

You are correct. The studs are just hand tight and the nuts are torqued.
 

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3M weatherstrip adhesive is the shizznit for sealing studs in the block. Used it many, many times...not a leaker in the bunch. It'll even seal 'em up after the engine's had coolant put in it (or has for me).

Red loctite works too for fresh installs (dry threads). Or was it green loctit? Can't remember which one.

Monkey snot works best (3m weatherstrip glue).
 

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On 2006-09-19 22:42, FEandGoingBroke wrote:

Look Paul/Pete/Penelope/Patrick/Perry/Peggy/Pablo/Pedro/Padme/Patti/Pamela/Pancho/Parker/Perry/Percival/Penrod or Peyton, whatever you may be called...
LOL...my guess would be Patrick....
 
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