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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got busy with the header work, re routing the tube that was hard hitting the driver tie rod, with the suspension loaded or unloaded. The wheels wouldn’t turn but one turn to the left.

I made this little holder clamp out of a couple hose clamps and strips of sheet metal.



Need to tweak it a bit more, then weld it up.
Also picked up this rear end housing, starting to gather the stuff to follow Dennis in the mini tub quest for traction. This rear came out of a 60s full size sedan. The tubes were not uniform diameter the whole way. But, where I will have to have it cut to shorten, it will put it back into the meaty tubes.
Only concern I have, when I was cutting the brackets off, I did burn through in one spot, will need to weld that up.
I am thinking, I can go an inch shorter on both ends than what I have now (already shortened to 47 inches, but I only have about an inch between the springs and the back plate. Depends on how much spline I have on my axles. The 47 is plenty for me I think, but if I can go shorter I will. I’m going to move the springs in 3 inches with the Crites kit. Basically copy Dennis, who has been a huge help and source of info.



 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Eyeballing this spring location and mini tub, possibly shortening another houseing or my existing one.

Did some detailed measurements of my rear in the car, its already 48 1/4 from back plate to back plate, using the countour of the brake backer.

Housing flange to flange is 51 1/8 and the axle face to axle face is 55.5.

So its about an inch bigger than Dennis rear end. Thinking I may just start out mini tubing and relocating the springs..

One concern I had is where the housing necks down , ill have ubolts on big and small tube, and probably would have to get new Calverts spring/bar mounts?

May have the same issue with this other housing I picked up. Its got the 3 inch tubes, but it gets bigger, like 3 1/4. Good new is both mounts would be on the bigger tube, and uniform, but would still have to buy new spring mounts from Calverts?
 

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Eyeballing this spring location and mini tub, possibly shortening another houseing or my existing one.

Did some detailed measurements of my rear in the car, its already 48 1/4 from back plate to back plate, using the countour of the brake backer.

Housing flange to flange is 51 1/8 and the axle face to axle face is 55.5.

So its about an inch bigger than Dennis rear end. Thinking I may just start out mini tubing and relocating the springs..

One concern I had is where the housing necks down , ill have ubolts on big and small tube, and probably would have to get new Calverts spring/bar mounts?

May have the same issue with this other housing I picked up. Its got the 3 inch tubes, but it gets bigger, like 3 1/4. Good new is both mounts would be on the bigger tube, and uniform, but would still have to buy new spring mounts from Calverts?
I believe that the spring mounts are slotted and should accept the larger spread U-bolts without much problem. Although the 2 sets I had were individually for different cars that normally had 8"ers, the mounts fit my three inch diameter 9" as well. If you have a problem, it is no problem to get different spring mounts. Calvert wanted $50 a pair when I replaced mine for the stud mount shocks. I am sure that you could mod your existing mount if needed, probably by fishing another 1/4" plate on the top and relocating the spring stud higher.

You will need new U bolts and "maybe" there is a larger spring perches available to better fit the diameter of the housing. Otherwise, some grinding of the perches will be needed to open them up. Be sure to box the perches in while your at it. Calvert has beefy perches available too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, with the dimensions on the rear, may just use the one in the car. If I have enuff meat on the axles to shorten it another inch, then I may go ahead and have this other housing cut down and use it.

What do you think this housing is out of, stout! Big tubes, and the center section extends way down the tubes.

Mean to ask, how thick was your frame rail, looking at mine if I go the notching route, only 1.5 outside rail to rail. If I notch it by half that doesnt seem to leave very much for strength.

Good news, frame connectors attach to the torque box right where the new front mounts would be butting up too. About an inch short, be easily tied together after instal.
 

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Mean to ask, how thick was your frame rail, looking at mine if I go the notching route, only 1.5 outside rail to rail. If I notch it by half that doesnt seem to leave very much for strength.

Good news, frame connectors attach to the torque box right where the new front mounts would be butting up too. About an inch short, be easily tied together after install.
My framerail is also 1 1/2" wide. The new frame adapter will be 3 or 3 1/2" wide and it would be best to somewhat center it on the notched frame, or better yet, offset them inboard a little for proper spring spacing. You are talking about 3/4" or so overhang away from the frame rail. The frame is thin (.030" ??), but remember that you will also make a firm attachment to the torque box. The torque box is the strongest area of the whole car and its metal is much thicker than the frame-you shouldn't blow through it easily with the mig. That is also where the factory rear frame and the outer spring attaching point is mounted. Just be sure to make a good physical connection there. It can easily handle the shock load from the front spring eye.

The rest of the 1/8" thick frame adapter gets attached to the frame and it will prevent sideways and up and down flex of the frame-the spring has virtually no effect on it if you have made a straight frame cut and have a good mechanical connection before welding. If you were concerned with your welding, you could also add a small angle bracket fished to the frame above the previously welded frame adapter. I didn't do that, but from a recent inspection I know that my welds have held up fine the last couple of years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks, more I think about it, the less I am worried about the welding. I just sweat things too much. I have to remind myself, I have burned three roles of wire on the project, two being 13lbs. That includes putting the front clip under my neighbors CJ7 (maybe he should be sweating it) and building a utility trailder. I managed to notch my towers and splice my front frame repair nicely, need to cut myself some slack.

When you notched your rail for slick clearance, how far did you cut into the rail before you folded the old over to create the narrowed rail? 1.5 inch rail doesnt leave you much meat?

Got a J tube from Jegs, going to re work that header a bit more, want it to come more forward of the tie rod, then curve back and under - vice straight down and under. Clears now, but barely.

FE will get a kick out of this, I used to sweat my body work, affraid I would dump the clutch and patches would fall off. Now, the whole darn front and rear end may go with the mud:eek:
 

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When you notched your rail for slick clearance, how far did you cut into the rail before you folded the old over to create the narrowed rail? 1.5 inch rail doesnt leave you much meat?
This step should be considered optional, but for my needs on the 65' it was a necessity since it was the closest place that the tire could rub during the mini-tub. After going at it a second time, I am at the limit of the tire touching other parts of the frame and the front frame adapter too. Basically the next step for me would be to back half the car to eliminate the factory frame or do as Lou did and move the whole frame inboard.

The second closest place for tire rub is at the front of the inner wheel well--it got opened up with a pie cut to make the wheel well a bit wider there.

My rear frame rail is probably 1" at the thinnest point-and that is only a small pointed area. For the whole rear frame mod the frame has been completely plated on 3 sides with 1/8" steel for maybe 16". It is scabbed on solidly to the front (near the crossover) and rear frame, plus it is stitched (in most places) to the original double over flaps of the frame where it meets the trunk floor. The pieces used attach at different distances on the frame so that all welds do not join the frame on the same plane at the same place. I can only make a judgement call, but I feel that it is every bit as strong as the thin metal factory frame. It certainly can resist the up and down flexing.

I would probably have second thoughts doing any of the frame mods if my decided hobby was drifting instead of steet/strip . . . . . .
 

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This is from the TFFN forum and it's on a Falcon or a Comet. But it's a option. These pics are pre mini tub and frame notching.
Maybe google, 4 day mini-tub tffn, and you can see the full thread. He did some nice work on this car.
I wish I had seen it before doing my mini-tub. I didn't notch my rails. Wish I had now. 275's are just not enough. LOL

Jet

We fabricated supports for the insides of frame rails out of 1" X 2" X 1/8" sq. tubing to maintain strength after the frame rails are cut/notched. We made some mini pie cuts to follow the curvature of the frame rails.
Attachment:

Mini-tub 013 web.jpeg [ 41.83 KiB | Viewed 1674 times ]



Attachment:

Mini-tub 014 web.jpeg [ 43.89 KiB | Viewed 1674 times ]



Frame supports fully welded to the inside of the frame rails and the rear cross member. We taketh from the inside and gaveth to the outside, effectively maintaining the same width throughout.
Attachment:

Mini-tub 015 web.jpeg [ 61.87 KiB | Viewed 1674 times ]



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That is an option for the Mustang, but it would be rather hard to pull off on the inner driver's side. The contours used for the offset of the trunk mounted fuel tank are pushed very, very near to the frame. Its tight at the front even without adding additional material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys, I think with the 67 I am starting with a bit more room than the 65/66 likr Dennis notes, and probably will not need this. I am just eyeballing contingency plans - the what if.

But Dennis hits it, I thought about scabbing a piece much like Jetfixr shows, but with the fuel cell and moving the springs in 3 inches, it wont be working, at least not that big.

If I was going with a four link, it would be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got my spring relocation kits from Crites yesterday. Surprised they came that quick, dont even have the rear out of the car yet.
 
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