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Discussion Starter #1
I am getting back, to mocking up the eng/headers.
I bought MPG headers and mounts, because I didnt want to wait for Crites to fab them. I run notched towers and stock suspension. The # 7 tube comes nearly straight down along the tower, behind the rear upper and lower control arms, then bends back and parallels 7, both run under the tie rod.

With the suspension unloaded (e.g. launches) the tie rod hits the 6 tube hard (I couldnt even get the tie rod fully bolted in with the tube in place) . Also the radius at the turn back was so shallow, I couldnt turn the wheel without the tie rod binding on the turn.

MPG of course said its "my car" the tube is fine. He said he jigged it, and even "put it on his car and it was fine". Right. But looking at pictures of others and his, I can see the tube is not correct.

So I got tired of the shinning customer support and decided to just fix it myself.

Found a couple of things, the 7 tube had some back angle on it, was way too short, and the freaking collectors (possibly what they mock up the build on) had a freakishly up or wierd angle that pushed the whole mess into the tie rod.

So I cut the tube off before the turn back. Cut a slit in it with a cuttoff wheel and ground a little extra from the kerf just past the turn down from the head. This allowed me to push the tube foreward and tuck it up into the notch of the tower and frame (MPG says you have to grind a radius in this for the header to fit, I didnt, it bolted on without it, thus my first inidcation the tube was not right). Now it fits nicley into the radius of the tower and frame and it clears the tie rod and allows a straight drop.

I ordered some U bends from Jegs, and will fab up the turn back.

I put my old Crites collectors on and it made for a much better angle and run, also they are so much easier to use and longer too. The MPG collectors you have to notch your trans crossmember mounts or they will hit. (the Crites collectors are far superior to MPG, those are crap).

My question in all of this, aside from my rail on MPG, I will need to angle the 7 tube out of the collector a tad more down ward to clear the unloaded tie rods. I am thinking the easy button will be another kerf and bend - just before he collector vice trying to cut radiuses to get it down, then back to level run. Does this kerf and tack create that much more flow problems than mandrel bent radii?

Wish i had waited and bought Crites now.:mad:
 

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I ordered some U bends from Jegs, and will fab up the turn back.

My question in all of this, aside from my rail on MPG, I will need to angle the 7 tube out of the collector a tad more down ward to clear the unloaded tie rods. I am thinking the easy button will be another kerf and bend - just before he collector vice trying to cut radiuses to get it down, then back to level run. Does this kerf and tack create that much more flow problems than mandrel bent radii?
Chris, I can't visualize what you are wanting to do with the info given. Perhaps a photo or a drawing will help?

As far as buying bends, the next time I suggest itemizing out what you need and them give MBS near Baltimore a call:

Results for Mandrel Bends:Aluminized Steel

Cheap cost true mandrel bends in heavy pipe, including custom angles. Good customer service. They sell lots of this stuff here on the east coast. Good price on bands and such too, although a few things might be over the top. I've used them a couple of times (both in-shop and mail order) with the last being my home done tailpipe build. The 33 degree custom bends I ordered were the same price then ($10) as the off the shelf 45's and 90's.





Those are my welds, not theirs . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Dennis, I will post some pics of this.
Your tail pipe article is what inspired me to take this on, vice buying another set of headers.

Its only one pipe and one bend, I though about going with your guys, but for this project.

My dilema, I dont own a band saw and making straight cuts will be tough. Have to go with my old method of mark, or tape, cut big and grind flush.

In my ramble, the big question was that 1/8th kerff cut to pull the pipe down a tad, shouldnt hurt flow to bad>

Side note, got another housing, 1970s 9 inch, big tubes, 75 bucks!
My chasis guy had one, he wanted 175 for it, add the `150 to shorten and weld the perches, I was getting close to ordering a fabbed one from ebay for 295.

You had to shorten your axles and re spline? Since I am going through the bother of this, maybe, while I am getting it shortened, I wonder if I can get those Mark Williams shortened an inch or so, and re splined.
 

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My dilema, I dont own a band saw and making straight cuts will be tough. Have to go with my old method of mark, or tape, cut big and grind flush.

In my ramble, the big question was that 1/8th kerff cut to pull the pipe down a tad, shouldnt hurt flow to bad>

Side note, got another housing, 1970s 9 inch, big tubes, 75 bucks!
My chasis guy had one, he wanted 175 for it, add the `150 to shorten and weld the perches, I was getting close to ordering a fabbed one from ebay for 295.

You had to shorten your axles and re spline? Since I am going through the bother of this, maybe, while I am getting it shortened, I wonder if I can get those Mark Williams shortened an inch or so, and re splined.
I doubt if the kerf is going to hurt anything.

All I use for exhaust work (and the roll bar) was a saws-all and an angle grinder. For a square/straight cut I wrap a dollar bill around the tube and adjust it until the sides meet. Then I scribe around it with a marker and start cutting just a little shy of the mark. Grind to fit.

Good deal on the housing!

As far as the axle shortening, some aftermarket axles can be resplined and some can't. It depends on how hard the axle is. Some have spent the $$ sending their axles back to the manufacturer only to discover that they were too hard and ended up needing to buy new axles anyways. Moser sells custom length axles with wheelbearings and studs installed for around $450.

Something that may help though is that most aftermarket axles are often made with more than enough spline, considering that the 9" only needs about 1 1/4" to be fully engaged and maybe 1/16" more to keep the splines from bottoming out. My Moser's had a full 3" of spline on them and I knew that the wear pattern was near the end. I was able to safely take 1 1/4" off of both of them the first time that I had the rear narrowed.

I suggest pulling both axles and looking for the wear engagement pattern location on the spline to determine the length of the unused spline. Then you will know how much the axles can be narrowed without resplining.

Don't forget that rim backspacing could be used as an alternative.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Talked to my chasis guy and he said the same thing, depending on how much I had. I recall I had a plenty, so I probaby will shorten it as much as I can/need since I am going through all this.

Been researching bearings, regardless of the small bearing and the larger Truck'/Torino. Looks like the ID of the axle bearng is the same for at least 35, 31 and 28 splines?
 

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Been researching bearings, regardless of the small bearing and the larger Truck'/Torino. Looks like the ID of the axle bearng is the same for at least 35, 31 and 28 splines?
The bearing location on your aftermarket axles are likely a larger diameter than what was used on the stock Mustang axle. I would suspect that Mark Williams can fix you up with the correct bearings to adapt your axles to your new housing. (I checked Moser online and they have suitable big/small swap bearings for their axles.)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Finally got the # 7 header modified to clear the tie rod when its un sprung or relaxed. Before I couldn’t get the tie rod to tighten due to the tube being to short and swept back. This was the steering centered, turn the wheels and the tie rod closed it up even more.

Before

After - now it clears at max turn and unloaded. The after may not be the prettiest, but it works which is more than I can say for the fine product that MPG supplied to me. Of course my car was the problem, and not the tube. I am back to dealing with Crites for my stuff.
 

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Still looks like a very close fit. By chance did you allow for engine torque too?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still looks like a very close fit. By chance did you allow for engine torque too?
Still has a bit of room, keep in mind the new pics are at full droop with the wheel turned to the closest contact with the tie rod. With the wheels centered it has inches.

I hope I wont be doing wheel stands with the wheel locked to the left:eek:
 
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