Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, I'm installing the headliner in a 64 galaxie today. I see headliner questions pop up a lot but I see very few posts of actual installs with photos.

I'm not going to claim that my way is the "right way", I'll get that out of the way first off, lol. But here's how I'm going about this particular install. I'm using the front and rear glue/tack strips to attach the headliner material but I believe I will borrow techniques utilized in gen 1 stang headliners for attaching the sides.

I installed the bows in the correct order, I think anybody can handle that much without photos. I then installed the bows and attached the rear bow wire links.



After the rear links were attached I pulled the center of the front edge tight and popped a couple of 1/4" staples in to hold it in place. Then I repeated the same at the rear edge to rear tack strip.



Next I trimmed back the bow sleeves at the ends and pulled the sides tight and clamped with spring clamps at each bow seam.



I'll be back with more in a few minutes, I'm doing this right now and need to work within the window of my contact cement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
OK, where was I? Oh yes, front and rear center tight, edges temporarily drawn tight and clamped. I do this because it helps me finish the front and rear edges without wrinkles.

Next I applied contact cement to the front tack strip, also a bit to the roof structure forward of the tack strip, out to both A pillar corners and also to the back side of the headliner material where it will contact the front roof edge.



I happen to be using a DAP brand contact cement with a small brush attached to the cap. I actually prefer the dobber type to the brush for headliners because the dobbers are easier for overhead work.

Anyways, the contact cement has a 15 minute to one hour working window. Once the cement had been on for about 20 minutes, I started drawing the material snug, pressing it to the tack strip and placing a few staples as I went.



With the front edge glued/stapled in place I chose to use a clamp on each front corner while I moved to the back of the car to repeat the same process.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Moving to the back, I applied the contact cement the same as I did for the front. I like the attaching strip for the back edge, it goes further out in the corners.







Then you wait for the cement to tack up.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
As with the front, I start with the center and carefully pull the headliner material snug and press it into contact with the attaching strip as I work my way out to both back corners. I place a few staples as I go.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I did also bring the front edge around and up into the windshield gasket area, since the windshield is out. This brings up the old "does the glass have to be out to replace the headliner in my 64 galaxie?" Question, answer is no. You don't have to have the front and rear glass out. But if you do have the glass out and a headliner is on your list, do the headliner before you put the glass back in.





Now I'm moving on to the sides.

With one side dry clamped and untrimmed:



I go to the other side and pull somewhat tight as I trim leaving a 1/2" to 3/4" material past the outside of the metal edge. This gets into what I mentioned earlier with my 1st gen mustang reference. I'm going to glue to the outside edge here, it works for other cars, I believe it will work well for this one too. The roof rail stainless and trim will conceal this after final assembly.



I'll be back in a bit to update. If I don't come back, it means I f'cked it all up and I've changed my name and gone into hiding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Pinch weld edge and edge of trimmed fabric are both coated with contact cement.



Now I just need to wait, its important to not try to join these too soon, it will slip on you if you don't let the glue tack up enough. So.......

More of this.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
When the glue is ready, I start with the bow seams, I pull them tight, wrap the edge up and around, press them firmly to the outside of the pinch weld.



Next I pull the material between bow seams, carefully watching inside for wrinkles, I corrected several wrinkle areas while pulling these areas, wrapping and adhering again to the outside of the roof rail pinch weld.



Once I'm happy with the edge, I put spring clamps on the bow seams, I find that if anything will pull loose while glue finishes drying it will be these seams.

Now its starting to look like a headliner.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
thanks.

I finished up the sail panel sections a bit ago.







I think it's going to be ok.

When the roof rail and inside window trim goes on things will be snugged just a little more.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, now for the sail panels....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
297 Posts
Very nice write up Dave, very informative and it looks great !Thanks for taking the time to do the pics also !!
You couldn't of timed this better,I'm going to install my headliner very soon.
Red
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
506 Posts
Really looks easy the way you write it up. It also looks great, better than factory. Reading all your posts made me wonder! What if we ask you to document some other work, let's just say a 66 convertible top install? I need to do mine maybe this year ( towards the fall) and I have everyone say pay someone to do it. But if you did it and documented it, I know I could do it too. You could start a list, based on popularity, well since I asked first, you get my drift dave? Lol. You might just turn into a writer and sell DIY books!!!!
JIM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Jim, actually it sounds like I may get to do my first convert this summer sometime. 69 GTO.

I truly am a ford guy at heart, but I love all brands on up to about 1970 to some extent.

A 66 Chev full sized is next on the operating floor, then a 69 mach 1, then I believe its a 1960 stude hawk, then I believe we have that 69 GTO, about 4 more 69-70 fast back Stang's (all for the same guy with the 69 mach, pretty sure there is a mid 20's model A, then a early 30's ford coupe, another 66 full size Chev.... And hopefully more after that.

:)

I need to fit my own stuff in after hours and on weekends, lol!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Did you have to replace any of the tack strip? If so where did you get it from? I removed my headliner tonight and the tack strip just fell apart.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
The only tack strip that I utilized in my install was the one across the front, the one across the back and the narrow tack strip at the too of sail panel area. Those were all on there pretty good, I had a lot of the side tack strips fall apart, I just pulled all that out and opted for the contact cement to pinch weld option for the sides.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
This is great. I’m about to replace my headliner that was removed by the panel-guy.

Because of this, I have no idea how it came out. Anyone have any photos of the springs that pull back on the rear bows? Where do the connect and where do they anchor?
Thanks in advance
Jeff
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,528 Posts
Springs? Of course I don't have a hardtop so have no idea how headliners are in them. Or are you talking of convertible top?



This is great. I’m about to replace my headliner that was removed by the panel-guy.

Because of this, I have no idea how it came out. Anyone have any photos of the springs that pull back on the rear bows? Where do the connect and where do they anchor?
Thanks in advance
Jeff
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top