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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my heater blower work fine two days ago. All speeds worked and warmed up the car and defrosted the windows as expected. Went to leave for work today and blower doesn't turn on. I got home from work too late to get out my circuit tester, so haven't really investigated this at all. So my question is where should I start? Does the heater have fuse? Thanks for the help in advance.
 

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He doesn't say what year of car, but my 67 does have a 20 amp fuse for the heater blower. I just wired off of the fuse block for a switched power source. The shop manual showes power from the fuse block direct to the blower motor, shipping ground through the dash switch and heater box resistor. What was strange was that nothing was wired to the fuse block 20 amp fuse, just the black yellow from the ign. switch. I removed the heater box and switch years ago so I can't really tell how it was originally wired. I can just say that the shop manual wiring diagram shows it the way I described.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So started investigating my problem. First place I checked fuse panel, 14amp glass fuse blown, awesome I thought easy fix. So I replaced fuse, still nothing but a slight hum from the motor. Went to the switch and resistor disconnected cleaned and reconnected and the blower started. But now when trying to start in lo or med speed just get a hum. If I go straight to hi speed it works perfectly and then from there med and lo speeds work fine. Anybody ever had this problem before? Would this be the switch or resistor problem?
 

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Sounds like its the motor shaft gummed up to me , pull it and clean it otherwise it will stop totally when you need it most
 

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If you pull the motor out, and the shaft wobbles, you should at least have the bearings replaced if you have an affordable auto electric specialist nearby. Otherwise sounds like new blower time. My F250 did the same thing, but blew fuses, and completely stalled once and fried some wiring before the fuse popped (slo-blow fuse). In my case the bearings were so shot the motors internal windings could short out.

Not something to wait on, the blower comes out easy enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So to take the blower out you have to take the whole heater unit box out right? Or is there an easier way? Also no auto electrician in my area. What is a good replacement? See a few used ones on eBay but don't want to be doing this all over in a few months? Have a Granier in my area think they could match one up? The three parts catologues I have don't have any new ones for a 63. I really seldom use the heater because I live in south louisiana and our winters are very short, but I don't want to risk burning anything up either.
 

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There's a cover screwed to the firewall that goes over the heater motor.

the bubble looking cover:


Behind it you'll find the motor screwed to the plenum.






 

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There are no bearings in the motor,.....at least not mine. Bronze bushings. But I did add a few drops of 3-in-One oil to free mine up. You have to take the motor apart, but fortunately the cover that you remove to add the oil doesn't hold the brushes or anything....it's just a cover. I think held on by two long screws and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No after cleaning all the contacts I haven't had any problems. Fortunately down here in the South Louisiana I don't need the heater often, but when I do drive it I turn it on to check and its seems to be working fine. There definitely is a fuse for the blower in the 63 not sure about the 64 check that first. Then I would just check all your electrical contacts.
 

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Thanks for the reply this all started in January i checked the fuse and it was blown, replaced it and nothing, car's been sitting the last month. Guess I'll start with the resistor and probably end up taking out the whole heater box, bad time to have no heat in Utah!
 
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