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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Ya all... The correct one is a Ready Aire 399011... Available is the 399021. This one is same size, but 1/2 inch thinner, and 1/2 the price.

399011
Core height...... 6 in.
Core Thickness. 2 1/2 In.
Core width....... 7 3/4 In.
In/out............. 5/8

399021
Core height...... 6 In.
Core Thickness. 2 In.
Core width....... 7 3/4 In
In/out 5/8...

Anyone use this one?. Have good results?. If so, what did you use for shims- spacer? Styra-foam?....

Thanks
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It should work as long as your In and Out pipes are in the correct position.
Use something to hold it in place.

Jet

yea, That's what I thought... I ordered one. 27.00 Advanced Auto. They tell me it comes with shimming rubber tape-kinda stuff for shimming. I'll let ya know how it works...

But, do you know the correct procedure to remove the heater cover to get to the core?. I seen screws, and one of them seems to be reversed in the fire wall.

Thanks
 

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On my 64 Fairlane and 65 Falcon, there are 4 studs that come thru the firewall with nuts on the engine compartment side.
There should be a rubber boot on top to connect the heater box to the vent hat.

That should be it, besides disconnecting your heater hoses.

The 62 may be different though.

Jet
 

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Its been about 7-8 yrs.since i replaced my heater core but, if i recall,
- disconnect heater hoses
-pull the heater box assembly from under the dash
- undo the core cover retaining screws that hold the core in the heater box,
- Rotate the 4 plastic heater core locks, 180 degrees, so they line up with grooves in box & pull it out the core
- Couldn;t find a replacement core back then, I took my old one to a rad shop & they made up a new one. 7-8 yrs & still working just fine
 

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forgot the shimming, my new made up core was a little bit shorter,
I shimmed with that foam insulation stuff, sticky on one side as a fix & just to hold the core in place
its not like you have to worry to much about shimming, tolerances for the core to hoses is not crtitical for operation
just to be clear, the 4 screws in cover, don;t hold core in place, just the cover
Those 4 heater core lock/stud things hold the core in correct position.
once you pull the under dash heater assembly,(stud/nuts on firewall side) you will see, its quite a simple procedure
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello everyone,
I removed the heater. It's the type that un bolts from the fire wall, under the hood. It all came out in one piece. I suppose I should remove the glove compartment cardboard when re-installing the heater right?. Is was a bit of a bear to remove.

The core slid right out. There was no little leavers. Just the nylon "sliders" for the core 4 of them.

The installation material is all wet. I suppose I should remove it, all the way from door to door and replace it using, I suppose, carpet fiber insulation.

The origional installation is breaking apart, and particles are air borne.. Maybe dry the fire wall, and this would be a good time to paint it before I put the heater back. Clean up the surface rust and paint it black.

Now, My new core hasen't arrived yet. Hopefully, there wasen't a problem with Advances invitory numbers. There was one left. Don't know where it's coming from.... I suppose, with the glove box cardboard removed, I will be able to get in there to duck tape the large hole vent, I suppose it's for the in coming air.

Now, on another note: Which one is the in?. Would it be the top? and is that the hose coming from the carb?. I have no idea why they passed the coolent through the carb except to help from keeping the gas from boiling????.... I should have marked the hoses, but I diden't.

What do you guys think?.
Thanks
HeaterBottom.jpg HeaterBottomWithCore.jpg
HeaterOutSide.jpg
 

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Top hose will be the inlet.

I would get a Heater box foam kit from Melvins or Autokrafters, otherwise you may have some heat leaking past the doors when you don't want heat. Just a thought.

I don't know about the hose to the carb though. Have never seen that before.

Jet
 

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If its the hose i think it is, it passes warm water through the base to help warm the fuel on start up, get your choke to open quickly,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Allright!. Got the new core today, after work the rain stopped, and I started to install it. Here's a picture of the fit. Fit nice, and blows some mean heat!. Sweet!!...

Reinstalled the heater, connected up all the lines and cables. Filled with this time, anti freeze. I'll check the rad in a few days, hopefully, the core isen't defective. There is nothing to indicate that now. But, bad new parts have happended...

Here's a picture of the fit in case anyone needs the core number for a referance. I kept my old one. Dosen't look like there are any visible outside corrusion, but, I will pressure test and re-solder in the future when I have nothing to do. Thanks guys...

NewHeatCore01.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
bump for good info ~ doin' this TODAY :D!!!
Hi-Ya,
I drive the car around for a bit last winter, and had good heat. Don't forget to use the foam type stuff that comes with the core. That will fill the space where the original core was thicker.

My 62 is still in the restoration process...
 

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Hi-Ya,
I drive the car around for a bit last winter, and had good heat. Don't forget to use the foam type stuff that comes with the core. That will fill the space where the original core was thicker.

My 62 is still in the restoration process...

13, they are always in the restoration process ;)!!!

hey, my new one was exactly the same as my old one - got it at O'Reilly's btw!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
13, they are always in the restoration process ;)!!!

hey, my new one was exactly the same as my old one - got it at O'Reilly's btw!!!
Mine was a 1/4 inch thinner. Got it from Advance Auto Parts. 26.00 (with a 10% discount)
 
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