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Discussion Starter #1
As most know, we finally got our 357C in and running. Our main problem is it gets real hot after about 10 minutes of driving. We do not know why it is doing this and are looking for any suggestions. The head gaskets lined up fine with the block and head when we put them on, so it is flowing through. The radiator is warm, but the heads and manifold are HOT! I am afraid to run it more than 10 minutes at a time, in fear that something will get cooked. We kept the radiator from the 302, did not get it cleaned or anything.
We were thinking about the following options that could solve our problem. Please let me know which one would make the most diference.
1. Have the radiator flushed and cleaned.
2. Get a fan with more blades. The one on there sits about an inch and a half away, with 5 blades.
3. get an electric fan (single or double..?)
4. Get a whole new radiator.
Money is now pretty tight. All avaiable funds went into the building of the engine, trans, ect and I do not have much left over.
All of the hoses are brand new, so there should not be a clog in them.
Please post and ideas!
Thanks!!
Matt
 

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I hope this is not the case, but back in the early 70's I had a guy do a valve job on my cleveland and he installed one of the head gaskets on backwards. If you look at it, it is possable to do. We tried everything we could think of but finally I took the heads off and there it was lookin back at me, a headgasket installed with the water hole on the wrong side.... Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bob-
I am pretty sure that is not the case....but if we run out of ideas than I guess that is the last resort.
Thanks
Matt
 

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Sounds like the head gasket, just like Bob said. Its quite common. Cleveland head gaskets have FRONT written on them. If thats not it, it could be a stuck closed thermostat. Check the thermostat out first tho.
 

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Well first step is to meaure the difference between the block temp (using the standard water temp gauge in the car)
and measuring the water in the radiator
if block temp is close to 100 degress celcius and the radaitors at 50 or so degrees
stuffed themostat staying closed
this will be the prob i hope
Good Luck
 

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I would check to make sure the restrictor (brass plate) is in place in the block under the thermostat. Very often in a Cleveland rebuild the brass plate is eaten away by the hot tank solution.
Second I have to agree that the head gaskets are installed incorrectly. The word "FRONT" has to be up and towards the front of the engine. Good luck.

Jim

_________________

67 Mustang Fastback w/351-C and 5 speed
34 Ford 3 window coupe 5.0 AOD



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: coupe3w on 1/17/02 5:40am ]</font>
 

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Along with the possible head gasket , a lean fuel mixture or advance timing can cause symptoms similar to this on a new motor , also some thermostats dont work well with high flow water pumps if your running one, use a high flow tstat, Just my .02

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Fomoco8 on 1/17/02 8:39pm ]</font>
 

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Make sure that your thermostat is specifically for a cleveland (unless you have an aftermarket high flow pump). 302/351W thermostats will cause overheating. Some aftermarket hi flow water pumps allow you to use the 302/351W thermostat because they don't have the passage that the brass restrictor ring is used for. Does it matter if the car is stationary or traveling down the road when it overheats. Are you using a shroud? Good luck. Tom
 

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get radiator rodded out first - not just flushed or maybe even new radiator -new thermostat or remove the old one - check for restrictor -fan clutch????-after all of these are checked then worry about the head gaskets -- saw bad water pump once- impeller was laying loose in the housing
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just an update....

After we got the exhaust system on, we started it up for about 2 mins and after it sat for about 5 mins, there was lots of water out of both pipes. We figured that we somehow had 2 bad head gaskets. Soooo we took off the heads. We are not sure if water actually was in the cylendar or not, because when the heads came off, come water splashed in. I don't think it had water in it, as Mr. Dark informed me that there would have been plums of white smoke and the bad cylendars would have a white powery build-up. So, is it possiable to have so much water build up so quickly? Anyway, the heads would have probable come off anyway to try and solve the heating up thing. It is all back together, and will start it up again tomorrow. We made sure this time that the gaskets were right (they were right before). If this does not cure the heat prob, then I have no idea what will.
Thanks for the read.
Matt
 

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With the car running and the radiator 3/4 full look down inside at the cores with a flashlite,you should see the water being pumped thru.If not,then as everyone said therm might be stuck,so remove therm and try this again.If still no water flow or weak flow than water pump is shot or to slow.Smaller crank pully will also slow the pump,are you running stock pulley sets?If flow looks good than go with big 3 core radiator/shroud-with stock fan tucked in tight, add single pusher electric. Had this problem with my 351c many years ago.Finally removed head gaskets for the 3rd time and opened the front water jackets on the head gaskets.This worked ,but I know it allowed more cooling to be diverted to the front half of the engine.I was a kid at the time I did this.Engine builder present day told me there must have been a blockage in one of the water passages in the block somewhere.
 

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Check those heads and the block for flatness before you reinstall them. James
 

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mine used to heat up, but not that fast. I was going to do the radiator thing, but bought a bigger fan (17 inch flex) no problems since. I think your problem is thermostat, that is if your heads arn't fried. did you have them milled?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, the heads were milled. I got a new thermostat today...will install it later. the one in ther enow is brand new, so...?
I will look into getting a new fan.
Thanks for all of the ideas.
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just another update....

We got it all put back together and started it up. The temp went all the way to hot, in about 2 mins. Checked the temp of the top of the radiator...it was 190. heads were about 212. Still too hot. Sooo we got a new thermostat (180 instead of the recomended 190 like we got originaly) And.......It works great! Ran it for nearly half an hour and the temp was right in the middle!! Woo Hoo!
Thanks to everyone who posted that idea. Should have tried that in the first place! Oh well!
Thanks again!
Matt
 
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