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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I don't know about you folks, but the lower front edge of my trunk pan behind the rear seat looked like Swiss cheese from all of the holes punched in it for fuel pumps and different tail pipe hangers over the years. Also, those big Flow Masters are heavy and tend to pull the metal out a lot.


I saw some cool exhaust hangers designed for the original dual exhaust cars, but figured I could make my own, a little better.
I took some left over sheet metal from my floor pan job, and cut it to fit the area around the rear seat belt holes and trunk pan/floor pan.
I drilled holes for the seat belt bolts to pass through, as well as a hole for a spot weld.


I then took some 1/8 X 1 ½ flat bar and measured and marked it against my tail pipe hangers, and drilled to corresponding holes. I put two bolts in the flat bar and welded the heads to the flat bar, now my hanger bolts won’t rotate when I tighten them down.




I tacked the backing plate over the floor board, then went under the car and re drilled the holes for my tail pipe hanger.




Then I slipped the hanger backer through the plate and floor pan. Now I can hang my pipes with confidence and not have to remove the back seat to hold the bolt heads.


The hangers fit right on the two studs, and I have duel backer plates to keep it all solid. Then just finish up by welding up the old holes and sealing it with seam sealer.


Be safe and have fun. Gydyup.
 

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Good write up.
I just used my seat belt bolts that were sticking through the floor. Threw a nut on them and pray they hold LOL! I may have to do something like this in the future though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its really nice not having to pull the back seat to get a wrench on the bolt! Thanks
Good write up.
I just used my seat belt bolts that were sticking through the floor. Threw a nut on them and pray they hold LOL! I may have to do something like this in the future though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For the rear loop? Yes I would think so, the front or main loop is a problem with the floor and seat bases. For the front, making the brakets on the frame rails so you can un bolt the loop work. Dennis11 did this and I think most of us are jumping onboard with that. I am working on a tubular rear loop now that will have a slip joint that will also allow you to unbolt the rear loop from the rear frame rail. If anyone is wondering why a rear loop, I have chunked drive shafts before at the pinion yoke, and it raised heck on my brake lines.
The same principle works real well for mounting the driveshaft loop also.:)
 
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