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Discussion Starter #1
So as everyone knows my car has had a numerous amount of problems, breakdowns, crashes etc......and its spent more time on a tow truck than the actual road

Lsat night was its first trial run and i have a few questions


So whenever i am at a dead stop n then go(stop lights etc) the car will hesitate and then pop(sounds like timing or carb) but then after it gets through it went fine, did this about 3 times in the 5 miles i took it

After this i had it outside of my garage listening to the idle trying to find an air leak or something
And out of nowhere the sound completely changes to this dying low rough idle and i immediatly jumped inside and i know exactly what the sound was
A sudden drop in oil pressure to like 10psi judging from the gauges.

now i checked the oil levels and i like mobil 1 full sythetic its normal a maple syrup color.....i didnt see any color at all on the dipstik but it had some fluid on it but clear........i dont wana say it, but what do you guys think?
 

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So whenever i am at a dead stop n then go(stop lights etc) the car will hesitate and then pop(sounds like timing or carb) but then after it gets through it went fine, did this about 3 times in the 5 miles i took it

And out of nowhere the sound completely changes to this dying low rough idle and i immediatly jumped inside and i know exactly what the sound was
A sudden drop in oil pressure to like 10psi judging from the gauges.

now i checked the oil levels and i like mobil 1 full sythetic its normal a maple syrup color.....i didnt see any color at all on the dipstik but it had some fluid on it but clear........i dont wana say it, but what do you guys think?
Sounds like you need a basic tune and carb kit. Clean (freshly changed) oil will appear clear on the stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like you need a basic tune and carb kit. Clean (freshly changed) oil will appear clear on the stick.

Well the carb is brand spankin new, well everything is brand spankin new. would that have changed the weird sounding almost dying idle that i heard near the end?
 

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what type of carb is on it..????
may just need to adjust accelerator pump to kick in a little sooner ...that will stop hesitation and popping of idle...
 

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Well the carb is brand spankin new, well everything is brand spankin new. would that have changed the weird sounding almost dying idle that i heard near the end?
In that case, and everything is within spec, you need to adjust the base idle of the car. Is this AT or MT? The low oil pressure you saw was as a result of the extremely low idle.

As mentioned, most tip-in problems are caused by the accelerator pump (component and/or adjustment), vacuum advance and/or lazy EGR, which you don't have.

Something is simply not within specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i will mess with the carb a little later tonight

Eeverything is brand spankin new fuel filters fuel pumps oil filters etc etc, literally the only old thind on the engine is the block itself

My carb is an electric single pump 4 Barrel edelbrock 750
Edelbrock 1411 - Edelbrock Performer Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Automatic Trans

Also it wont shift unless i let off the gas.......aggravating me
 

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What car/engine/trans combination do you have?
 

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Shift problem is due to mis-adjusted vacuum modulator.... W.A.G.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What car/engine/trans combination do you have?
Car is 1968 Ford Galaxie 500 Fastback
Engine is a 7.5L 460
Trans Automatic C6 4speed

Is the Shift Down lever fully functional or is it maladjusted?
Its Functional, now what i heard was put on it, because my car magically popped into revers, they put some sort of kickdown lever on it to lock it in place when its in park, not sure though

Shift problem is due to mis-adjusted vacuum modulator.... W.A.G.
Please Enlighten me on this W.A.G.

and i thank everyone for this help and there input its always very valuable to me to get help from "our" forum
 

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The Position of the Kickdown lever has absolutely ZERO to do with the position of the Shift levers being in park or in any location.

The kickdown rod attaches to your throttle linkage, the more you open the throttle the farther back and down the kickdown goes, thus making the car shift into a lower gear and overriding the vacuum modulator and allowing max rpm before shifting.

The car's ability to go and Stay in park is entirely up to the shift selector's condition in the floor or in the column wherever is should be located, and the adjustment's therein..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The Position of the Kickdown lever has absolutely ZERO to do with the position of the Shift levers being in park or in any location.

The kickdown rod attaches to your throttle linkage, the more you open the throttle the farther back and down the kickdown goes, thus making the car shift into a lower gear and overriding the vacuum modulator and allowing max rpm before shifting.

The car's ability to go and Stay in park is entirely up to the shift selector's condition in the floor or in the column wherever is should be located, and the adjustment's therein..
Thats exactly what i thought, but that was the BS story they were giving me when they said it magicall turned into Christine came alive and wanted to start wrecking things

i wasnt able to mess with the carb last night had to take my step brother to a soccer game, but tis fine alot of hot soccer moms to go along with that
 

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The Position of the Kickdown lever has absolutely ZERO to do with the position of the Shift levers being in park or in any location.

The kickdown rod attaches to your throttle linkage, the more you open the throttle the farther back and down the kickdown goes, thus making the car shift into a lower gear and overriding the vacuum modulator and allowing max rpm before shifting.

The car's ability to go and Stay in park is entirely up to the shift selector's condition in the floor or in the column wherever is should be located, and the adjustment's therein..
FE, if the kick-down linkage is mal-adjusted or inoperative(locked in rearward position), it will bypass the modulator valve and you may loose either 2nd or 3rd range.

OK... We have a C6. I was under the impression it was an FX.
 

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FE, if the kick-down linkage is mal-adjusted or inoperative(locked in rearward position), it will bypass the modulator valve and you may loose either 2nd or 3rd range.

OK... We have a C6. I was under the impression it was an FX.
I see what you're saying but not what's supposed to be happening. The detent being stuck down would indeed bypass the modulator, but you would STILL have all 3 gears, they would just be shifting at the peak of their rpm range.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I see what you're saying but not what's supposed to be happening. The detent being stuck down would indeed bypass the modulator, but you would STILL have all 3 gears, they would just be shifting at the peak of their rpm range.
would i be able to make these adjustments or take it somewhere
 

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I don't know if Bill of Bills Auto in Orange does much with transmissions but you might ask him about a place in the area. Orange isn't that far from Ontario is it? Can't remember and only been to the airport there once.
A lot of the SoCal club take their cars to him. He actually babysat my car for a week after it was wrecked.

Bill's Auto Repair
1523 W Struck Ave
Orange, CA 92867
(714) 639-3410
 

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You can do ALL of the adjustments necessary Simple.

Pull up kickdown rod until it's at the top of it's reach. press down a little and feel the Spring pressure pushing back. At the top of the spring is your rest position.

Adjustment is simple, you make sure the throttle is at full open, then you adjust the rod to be fully back and own at that point. If the rod stops B4 the throttle does you will not get full throttle.

That's your adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You can do ALL of the adjustments necessary Simple.

Pull up kickdown rod until it's at the top of it's reach. press down a little and feel the Spring pressure pushing back. At the top of the spring is your rest position.

Adjustment is simple, you make sure the throttle is at full open, then you adjust the rod to be fully back and own at that point. If the rod stops B4 the throttle does you will not get full throttle.

That's your adjustment.

thanks, i will do that tonight
 
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