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Discussion Starter #1
I just proved that the torque of my 408 is too much for the stock rubber cheapo mounts
and I cannot find a source for classic mustangs. I'd live to get a set that lowers the engine about 2 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I drilled out 5 holes and welded 5 studs into one end, then put the nuts on it to compress the rubber between the 2 pieces that came apart. Last night I broke the heads off all 5 studs. If I take the 1 inch rubber out, the mount will not fit anymore.

I want a strong piece that never needs replacing so I would rather not rely on my own welds. So far I have not proven to be good at it.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mustangzrule on 4/18/02 11:50pm ]</font>
 

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You need a torque strap running from the top front bolt in the driver's side cylinder head down to the sway bar mount.

This strap (chain, cable, turnbuckle) will keep the engine from rotating on the mounts so much while it's under power. I use one with the stock mounts with no problems.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since I already broke my stock mount, you still suggest I get another stock unit or should I opt for a solid mount? Obviously since I haven't found one yet, it might be difficult. I just want to be safe. When my engine turned, it bound my carb linkage and I had to shut the key off. Good thing my hood wasn't on.
 

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I'm not sure about your application, but I bought a set a Lakewood's "Muscle Mounts". They were $45 each through Summit. They are supposed to be a heavy duty upgrade from a stock unit, but still has the rubber isolator to keep the vibrations down.
 

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Definitely have to go with Mike on this one. Torque strap is the best and simplest solution. I run stock mounts on my 347 in a 65 FB and have for years, with the torque strap in place. Have never had problem one. Art Morrison sells a kit for about $35.00. comes with the sperical rod ends, the rods and even the mounts (which by the way you won't need if you do it as Mike suggested).

Ron
 

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The following does not read like a normal post because it's one paragraph from my 20 page narrative on my 351c 4V build ... but for what it's worth ... this is how I keep mine in place and keep the stress off the motor mounts.


Read on...

An engine tie-down to keeps "The Beast" in place without risk of breaking motor mounts. This tie down is a custom made piece that connects to the block via the rear bolt on the (driver’s side) motor mount. I fabricated a bracket (three sides of a box sort of configuration) with five links of chain welded to it. I cut the head off a stock intake manifold bolt then after cutting the end off the last link of chain I welded the bolt into that last link. This assembly dangles from the motor mount bolt directly down to the cross-member below. I fabricated a tab that is welded to the cross-member. The tab is drilled to accept the bolt at the end of the chain. With the bolt through the tab I then installed a hard rubber "shock bushing and washer" and a nylock nut. I tighten the nut to just pull the chain tight and slightly squish the rubber bushing. What this assembly gives me is an adjustable tie-down, which does not transfer engine vibration to the car frame and body, but still gives the needed support to keep a 500 HP engine safely in it’s saddle. And from the top of the car you can’t tell it’s even there
 

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Here's another tip that I've heard of. Take your mount and drill a hole down the center. Use a large bolt and washers and "bolt" the two pieces together. Don't bolt them tight. Leave about 3/8" of a space so that the mount has room to expand but will stop at a certain point (3/8" actually). Use a nylock nut so it won't come loose on it's own.
 
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