These must be California emission style heads that have the thermactor pump pipes on them. Stu
This is the pic I was talking about.....large round holes.On 2006-03-15 20:07, 67fastback wrote:
hmm, one thing I noticed about theses heads is that they have small oval shaped push rod holes.............
Geez man!...were you using a hand driven grinder or something? 5 weekends to port heads? Sorry for the rant, but I hoped they worked really good after that much time invested.On 2006-03-14 19:20, 71hotrodpinto wrote:
Hey there! Sorry to say that to run a solid cam in those heads, you will need to have the studs pulled out and some screw in studs put in. The spring pressures that are usually associated with a solid cam can be enough to pull the studs out slowly but surely over time. (read While your driving!)
Usally around $65 for the labor. Then around 40 for the ARP studs.
You can get away from the guide plates because of the slots but that is not a requirement to have the slots for a solid cam.
You just use a set of guide plates that fit under the studs when you dont have the slots.
SOOO having gone through getting my '68 302 iron heads done I have some experiance to share.
I bought my heads with over size valves and 'redone' for around 365 on ebay. Then I realized that I wanted better valves, $135. Then i wanted to port them. $25 cheap grinder and $65 worth of carbide cutters. Oh and another $10 for sanding rolls. I spent near 5 weeks and another 5 weeks finishing the intakes at my buddies head shop (weekends) porting just the exhaust. $Time$. Oh and the head rotating stands that i bought for $40. ARP .100 longer rocker studs $35 . Isky adjustable guide plates $50. I bought I set of cheap retainers for $30 then didnt like them and then bought a crane set for $35. Then I bought a set of crane beehive springs for the hydraulic roller Im running, $125(which also came with retainers-SIGH!!), then i realized that the rebuilt heads i was working with had 4 bad guides!! arrggg!!! So i then went and put in bronze sleeves in the guides. Cost free, but if i had to pay? $65 .Then after all's said and done theres the performance valve job Free BUT if i had to pay? $125
It took almost 6 months to piece together and pay for the "CHEAPER way to go"
So I spent near $915 on the heads trying to save money. Not including the cost of GAS driving to hell and gone every weekend to my buddies house for 5 weeks and then another 4 at my other buddies Head shop. (I dont want to think about that)
So the moral of this long and drawn out explanation??
BUY SOME AFTERMARKET HEADS.
I could have bought some ford motorsport heads (M-6049-Y303) for 800+tx
What a dope.
If you do get some pay attention to the combustion chamber as most aluminums have bigger chambers for the forced induction crowd. You can run slightly higher comp with aluminum heads.
Anyways hope youve benifited from my experiance
Geez man!...were you using a hand driven grinder or something? 5 weekends to port heads? Sorry for the rant, but I hoped they worked really good after that much time invested.
An air driven die grinder and two bits and 10 hours of my time on a Saturday and I was done with two DOOE heads. I hadn't ported heads for over 20 years prior to that. Another couple of hours on Sunday to port match the intake and that was that.