Hey guys. I've had this issue on my car since 1994. It's street legal but only hits the road a couple of times a year. It's usually just trailered to the track. Anyway, my brake lights rarely come on together. It's usually just one or the other. It all depends on how you move the turn signal wand. If you wiggle the turn signal wand around while pressing on the brake, the brake lights will take turns blinking. If you find the sweet spot where both lights come on together and hold it perfectly still, the brake lights work correctly. If you are off a micron, it goes back to one light. I thought it was my old turnsignal switch wearing out so I put a brand new unit in there and it's the same story. Is my car wired wrong or is this a common problem?? ANY input is greatly appreciated!!!
Help solving a brake light problem I've had forver!!
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They would have to be good if the lights do light up, right? Otherwise I wouldn't get any illumination at all.
The initial thought IS the turn signal switch. Seeing as how you've replaced that, I'd be looking at the harness in the column or the connectors at each end. The switch wiggling having a direct effect on the turn signals suggests is up front. How about the turn signals? Is it only brakes? Have you replaced the light switch yet?
Checked the bulb socket grounds and they are good. I did put a new light switch in already. I haven't seen it effect the turn signals which is very odd. I'm baffled. I've had this issue forever and I can't figure it out. Does the turn signal switch have a ground to it? None of the wires down to the harness show a solid black.
-E
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I'd still say it is in the turn signal switch or that general area...Could be a loose connector pin, or an internal break in the wire itself from fatigue. Just because the switch is new doesn't mean it is good or installed right. Your description points to this. I would check installation, and check the grounds to the dash and column Inspect the wires around the turn signal flasher, too
I know of a couple og guys that have had this issue with the Repop switches on guy went through 4 to get one that worked right, look for a NOS ford switch. try
Green Sales Company - Obsolete Ford parts, Lincoln, Mercury parts Green Sales Company, supplier of obsolete Ford parts and Lincoln / Mercury parts. Our Ford parts inventory represents all Ford and Lincoln / Mercury products from 1950 to the present.
Green Sales Company - Obsolete Ford parts, Lincoln, Mercury parts Green Sales Company, supplier of obsolete Ford parts and Lincoln / Mercury parts. Our Ford parts inventory represents all Ford and Lincoln / Mercury products from 1950 to the present.
**BINGO!!!** Thanks for chiming in Chero!! I've been combing Google with a fine tooth comb (as I have done before a million times) but now someone in another forum was posting the exact same issues:
New Turn signal switch woes - Vintage Mustang Forums
My turn signal switch is loose as hell and flops around like crazy. Basically, it's $129.00 worth of repro CRAP!!! I'm hoping this other guy gets back to me to see if he was able to fabricate a fix. A N.O.S. part for this highly desired item would more than likely cost a grip. I might not have a choice and I'd do anything to finally put this issue to rest. =\
-E
Click on link in my first post their prices are normally fair
O.K. It looks like the first replacement turn signal switch was garbage. Overseas garbage with cheap components. There are some good quality reproduction units that are made by the original Ford parts supplier using original Ford tooling. They are surprisingly affordable. Stay AWAY from a lot of the Ebay junk out there!! Here's a picture of what a proper one looks like:
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If you notice the cam that holds the turn signal switch in place has a black circle on it. My cheap repro unit had a metal stamp there and had metal contacts everywhere. I'm pretty sure the good units use brass contacts. I'd like to say that "you get what you pay for" but I overpaid for that cheap knock off part. Anyway, when this new unit shows up, I will install and keep you posted. No doubt this thread will help someone in the future.
If you notice the cam that holds the turn signal switch in place has a black circle on it. My cheap repro unit had a metal stamp there and had metal contacts everywhere. I'm pretty sure the good units use brass contacts. I'd like to say that "you get what you pay for" but I overpaid for that cheap knock off part. Anyway, when this new unit shows up, I will install and keep you posted. No doubt this thread will help someone in the future.
FIXED!!!!!!! FINALLY!!!!! There are SOOO many pitfalls and 'harder ways' than 'smarter ways'!!! I hope people Google search this thread and then JOIN fordmuscleforums to aknowledge!! I've re-run this wiring at LEAST a dozen times. FYI I was an E6 in the Navy as an Electricians Warfare Technician at the young age of 24. Granted i had very little time to work on my Stang BUT!! A LOT of times you over-shoot the problem. My first fix was to replace the turn signal switch. THEN...I had a mess of troubleshooting faults. After a bunch of work, all of my testing went right back to my initial thoughts (sounds like an episode of 'The First 48', huh?) Anyway, long story shorter, here come my SAM KINESON RANT!!!!: FOR '67 MUSTANGS OR SIMILAR MAKE SURE YOU BUY SCOTT DRAKE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT RE-MANUFACTURER!! IF YOU DONT, YOU WILL PAY $100 FOR A P.O.S. MADE IN CHINA!!! THE SCOTT DRAKE O.E.M. PART NUMBER MATCHES FORD'S OEM PART NUMBER (same company) AND HERE IT IS: C7ZZ-13341-F!!! MAKE SURE IT IS 'SCOTT DRAKE' because they hired the same company that made the factory units back in 1967. I'm sorry if I'm repeating or getting obnoxious. I've had this problem for F$*&& EVER!! I got a good old "MADE IN THE USA" part and the problem is FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lastly (once again) if you have this problem and need some insight, PM me. There are times when you PM members and you get ZERO help and....there are MORE times than often where you get some solid advice!! I'm here to help. PM me if you need me.
-E
-E
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