HELP WHAT PISTONS WILL FIT on a 5.0 or 302 block with the longer 289 rods?

a lot of racers had good success using chevy 350 pistons in 302's using the 289 rods. the compression hieght(1.55&quot is as near perfect as you can get. as i recall the piston sticks up about .005". the only thing is you need to bore the small end of the ford rod to a .927" diameter for the chevy pins. and since you have to do that anyway, you may as well floa tthe pins, just remember to use double spiro locks on the pins.

_________________
64 falcon
66 mustang
80 fairmont

define irony:
a bunch of idiots on a plane
dancing to a song made famous by a band
who died in a plane crash

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: rbohm on 7/26/04 3:42pm ]</font>

On 2004-07-26 14:22, tonys10sec306 wrote:
Also it said the small end of the rod can be easily accept boring to required.927.

Click to expand...

Boring a 289 rod to .927 for a press fit is OK. Boring a 289 rod to accept a .927 bronze bushing for full floating is not recommended.

_________________
Tracy Blackford: Corona, Ca
'65 FB Mustang 331 with H-beam 289 rods, KB 322's, 282S cam, fully preped 351W heads. Built C4 and 3.50 9" posi


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: blkfrd on 7/27/04 8:12am ]</font>

Hi ther blkfrd (slick fastback!), born & raised in Y.L...I love it, there are so many hot rods + car people here!
-------
so it seems that the 350 piston is a common swap, but machine work is required(?) I found a possible? part # I have pasted the information below. Does this look okay?
-------
:: taken from http://www.racerwalsh.com/v8_pistons.htm ::
5.0 (302) ROD/PISTON combinations
Fitting longer than stock connecting rods to an engine increases horsepower and torque. They have become standard items in high output race engines. Advantages include a much lighter piston than is possible with the stock length rod, giving quicker acceleration and less reciprocating weight. Three rod lengths are available: 5.090" (stock 302), 5.155" (BOSS 302). and 5.315", or 5.4". They all come with 2.239" crank pin, and .912" rod pin (bushed).
-------
The pistons below match the rod lengths shown above
to give a 'zero deck' (top of piston even with the top of 302 block)
WISECO FORGED PISTONS (set of 8 $576)
8012 piston (5.090" rod) (ea.) $66
8014 piston (5.155" rod) (ea.) $66
8016 piston (5.315" rod) (ea.) $66
8017 piston (5.4"rod) (ea.) $66


(thanks tonys10sec306 + EVERYBODY for the great responses!)

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 67fastback on 7/27/04 5:43am ]</font>

tonys10sec306 when you said "long rod comb runs good or better then a lot of..." I agree with you. Here are some benefits as read:

Effects of Longer Rods

Provides longer piston dwell time at & near TDC, which maintains a longer state of compression by keeping the chamber volume small. This has obvious benefits: better combustion, higher cylinder pressure after the first few degrees of rotation past TDC, and higher temperatures within the combustion chamber. This type of rod will produce very good mid to upper RPM torque.
» The longer rod will reduce friction within the engine, due to the reduced angle which will place less stress at the thrust surface of the piston during combustion. These rods work well with numerically high gear ratios and lighter vehicles.

*Long rods move the piston pin location higher, towards the piston deck. This allows the skirt (and hence the entire piston) to be made shorter. Although long rods weigh slightly more than short rods, this is more than offset by the reduction in piston weight, because the piston's weight is effectively concentrated at the end of a "lever" (the rod). For the same total deck height, a longer rod will use a shorter (and therefore lighter) piston, and generally have a safer maximum RPM.

*Moving the pin up closer to the ring-pack reduces piston knock, enhancing piston ring sealing.

*The longer the rod (the greater the R/S ratio), the less intake runner volume the engine requires. This is significant if the engine is otherwise cylinder-head-limited.

*Long rods reduce the maximum rod angularity (the amount of deviation from a straight line drawn through the center of the crank journal, connecting rod, and piston axis) reached during the combustion cycle. This in turn reduces side loads on the piston and cuts bore friction, one of the largest friction contributors of any part within the engine.

*Less rod angularity also means the long rod maintains a straighter "push" on the connecting rod for a longer time period than a shorter rod. Pushing in a straighter line obviously transfers energy more efficiently.

*Compared to a short-rod engine, the long-rod engine dwells longer at, and decelerates and accelerates faster from, the vicinity of TDC. This has the effect of cutting both average and peak piston speeds, which permits the valves more time to fill and exhaust the cylinder.

I changed my post to be more specific on what I was quoting. Not a thing against what you said. Were they press fitting the pin or full floating the pin in the 289 rod 302?

Joe Jill at Superior Automotive in Fullerton, Ca told me specifically that he would not put a bronze bushing in a 289 rod...not enough material left over compromising small end strength. I asked him this question when I was in the process of building a 289 rod 331 stroker using a KB322 piston which had a .927 pin. I ended up finding a set of H beams 289 rods for less than $300 which I had honed out to accept the .927 pin.

Someone else who replied previously said why not go ahead and full float the .927 pin. I was commenting on his reply as well.

Just want to convey to the poster that I would recommend press fit a .927 and not advise doing full float in case he has any thoughts of doing so.

Now there is another case here and that is full floating without a bronze bushing, but I really have never heard of anyone full floating steel to steel so I don't know if it can be done or not. Ever hear of this being done?

I know this is an older post. I just put together a '85 H.O. block with 11:1 compression 30 over Chevy piston on a stock 302 rod and crank. I decked the block 15 thousandth also.
I bolted a set of GT40P's that were shaved 8 thousandth to that block. I also upgraded the valve springs to match my Crane 284-2 Cam.
I'm running a Typhoon dual plane intake with a little 600 cfm Carter/AFB carb. NOS is planned down the road.
I bolted this Frankenstein motor into a '97 Stang that use to be a V6 with a subframe swap. The torque converter, trans, 4r70w, and 273 rear is all left from V6. Yes the rear needs upgraded. I just put the car on road in Jan. It's a work in progress.

Mercury4me said:

Thanks. I was wondering because I have a 3.0 open and it seems like it could stand some more. I am just running a stock GT40P and 4R70W and it will torch the right rear if I tromp it.

Click to expand...

Do you have a 7.5 or a 8.8 rear? Unfortunately mine is only a 7.5. A good 8.8 will give you a limited slip advantage.
I can still turn the tires very easily. At a 60 mph kickdown I can get a chirp.