Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Where do you get these or make them??
The ones Ive seen look to be hardware store type stuff.
Also, any way to get ram air without hood mods or massive ductwork over the block????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,700 Posts
Hmmm ...

I'm not MikeB. ...

But, I have an engine tie down that isn't even visible from the top of the car and doesn't transfer any engine vibration to the car.

I also have a Ram Air setup (self designed), but it does include 3.5" ductwork running out and forward on the engine. It is 100% "car parts" ... no Home Depot parts. I have about 15 PICs if you (or anyone else) want to look.

If you are interested I can get the info to you

_________________

Larry Madsen
Las Vegas Nevada



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: monstermach on 3/13/02 10:19am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: monstermach on 3/13/02 11:55am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: monstermach on 3/13/02 11:56am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,129 Posts
I used a small turnbuckle and bolted one end to the drivers side head the other end to the bolt used for the sway bar.

I built a home made cold air intake/ramair using an old dual snorkel aircleaner from an 85 mustang GT, some aluminum dryer ducting, not real pretty but I picked up 3 tenths and 3 MPH at the dragstrip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
I also made one using a turnbuckle. Not too pretty, but cost less than $5 and is very effective. The turnbuckle came withb two eye bolts. I replaced one of those with a J bolt. Attached the J bolt to 3 links of chain that are bolted to the swaybar mount. The eyebolt is bolted to the head, but I also used a piece of alternator spacer to space it away fromt he head so that thhe turnbuckle is pulling straight onthe sway bar mount and not pulling it back at an angle. More pics at:
http://home.bellsouth.net/personalpages/scripts/community.dll?ep=331&folderid=13389&groupid=26404&folderview=thumbs&ck=&ver=3.0


Later,

David Cole
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey guys, thanks for the tips. these look great. I think I'll use the turnbuckle approach. I have p/s and a/c on that side... Is this going to be in the way????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,700 Posts
This is the paragraph from my Narratives on the engine tie down. This only one paragraph from a 20 page narrative, so it doesn't read like a normal "post"


An engine tie-down to keeps "The Beast" in place without risk of breaking motor mounts. This tie down is a custom made piece that connects to the block via the rear bolt on the (driver’s side) motor mount. I fabricated a bracket (three sides of a box sort of configuration) with five links of chain welded to it. I cut the head off a stock intake manifold bolt then after cutting the end off the last link of chain I welded the bolt into that last link. This assembly dangles from the motor mount bolt directly down to the cross-member below. I fabricated a tab that is welded to the cross-member. The tab is drilled to accept the bolt at the end of the chain. With the bolt through the tab I then installed a hard rubber "shock bushing and washer" and a nylock nut. I tighten the nut to just pull the chain tight and slightly squish the rubber bushing. What this assembly gives me is an adjustable tie-down, which does not transfer engine vibration to the car frame and body, but still gives the needed support to keep a 500 HP engine safely in it’s saddle. And from the top of the car you can’t tell it’s even there.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top