With the high/low beams on together will that make some of the wiring hotter or other parts?
No. You are acutally pulling less power with four 35W filaments than you did with 2x35W and 2x50W. However, if you're like me and can't have enough light - you'll upgrade to maybe an E-code H4 bulb setup with 35/90 or better bulbs. In that case, the headlight housing will get quite hot, but the glass E-code housings are designed to take that. I have not used Fleabay cheap-o plastic versions that way. Upgrade carefully. The relay kit will also be required at that point.
I do have one of those MAD headlight wiring relay kits laying around and just haven't installed it yet, wonder if that would be a good idea to add it to the changed headlight set up?
I would on general principle, however it's not required with stock bulbs at this level. Use what you have jsut to try it out and go from there.
Have you got any special way to jump those two posts together, wiring isn't really something I like and I want to make sure I do this right the first time and not set my car on fire. How do I jump it without cutting some wiring if that's possible?
There are several methods. You can solder a 1/2" jumper between the switch connector rivets. You can use a crimp splice connector (see pic). You can use a fuse block spade jumper (see pic) and a short little jumper wire. I suppose there are 10 other ways, but that should get you thinking.
:tup:
David
These are slick and quick. Some versions must have one slot opened with a knife or drill bit to pass two wires in-parallel. Just place it over the tow wires and crush it with pliers. This is the better double-blade version:
Fuse block accessory connector. I couldn't find a pic of the type I prefer, but it's similar to this but folds-over into a V-shape to come back the other way. Of course, you could just bend this type into a V to get the same thing. then just jump teh two connectors with a short jumper wire. Available at automotive and electronics stores: