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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys, I've got halogen headlights in my 66 Fairlane and want to make the top headlights into high/low beam combined. Do they make a high/low bulb that'll fit into the headlight? I was thinking maybe a 70 Mustang bulb might fit but not sure.

I want to make the bottom headlight openings into cold air ducts but still want my high/low beams if possible.

I don't have a clue what to do for the wiring but I need to find the right bulb first.......has anyone out there done this?
 

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Your stock ones are already 3-terminal HI/LO. The difference is that you want to bridge your dimmer switch so both elements light at the same time when HI is on (instead of LO off when HI is on). After that, if you still want more light, just upgrade to a higher wattage system with better wiring.
:tup:
David
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hiya PSIG, so if I'm understanding you correctly your saying all I have to do is hook up the wiring so that it's like later headlight systems with only 2 headlights. How do I bridge my dimmer switch to achieve that?

Then I can get rid of the lower headlights altogether with no problems.....what do I do with the lower headlight sockets then? I don't want to cut them off incase I want to go back to original.
 

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Hiya PSIG, so if I'm understanding you correctly your saying all I have to do is hook up the wiring so that it's like later headlight systems with only 2 headlights. How do I bridge my dimmer switch to achieve that?
The dimmer has 3 terminals. The center one is power from the headlight switch. Join the center one at the dimmer with the LO beam wire to the headlights. That's it. Now you get LO, and when you hit the dimmer, you get HI and LO instead of just HI. You can use a wiring diagram, but it's probably easier to just probe the wires to see what's hot on LO and jump those two together. I've done this mod to my cars just because you can see better with both beams than just HI.
Then I can get rid of the lower headlights altogether with no problems.....what do I do with the lower headlight sockets then? I don't want to cut them off incase I want to go back to original.
Just tuck them out of the way. No need to cut. To preserve the contacts from corroding if water wants to splash in them, just goop the socket full of silicone dielectric grease. Wrap in tape if you like.

David

You should have a switch like this. IIRC, it's the center and left terminals. I could be wrong - but I have a 50/50 chance of being right. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
That's it?!!!! That's way to easy and that's nice for a change. With the high/low beams on together will that make some of the wiring hotter or other parts?

I do have one of those MAD headlight wiring relay kits laying around and just haven't installed it yet, wonder if that would be a good idea to add it to the changed headlight set up?

Have you got any special way to jump those two posts together, wiring isn't really something I like and I want to make sure I do this right the first time and not set my car on fire. How do I jump it without cutting some wiring if that's possible?
 

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With the high/low beams on together will that make some of the wiring hotter or other parts?
No. You are acutally pulling less power with four 35W filaments than you did with 2x35W and 2x50W. However, if you're like me and can't have enough light - you'll upgrade to maybe an E-code H4 bulb setup with 35/90 or better bulbs. In that case, the headlight housing will get quite hot, but the glass E-code housings are designed to take that. I have not used Fleabay cheap-o plastic versions that way. Upgrade carefully. The relay kit will also be required at that point.
I do have one of those MAD headlight wiring relay kits laying around and just haven't installed it yet, wonder if that would be a good idea to add it to the changed headlight set up?
I would on general principle, however it's not required with stock bulbs at this level. Use what you have jsut to try it out and go from there.
Have you got any special way to jump those two posts together, wiring isn't really something I like and I want to make sure I do this right the first time and not set my car on fire. How do I jump it without cutting some wiring if that's possible?
There are several methods. You can solder a 1/2" jumper between the switch connector rivets. You can use a crimp splice connector (see pic). You can use a fuse block spade jumper (see pic) and a short little jumper wire. I suppose there are 10 other ways, but that should get you thinking.
:tup:
David

These are slick and quick. Some versions must have one slot opened with a knife or drill bit to pass two wires in-parallel. Just place it over the tow wires and crush it with pliers. This is the better double-blade version:


Fuse block accessory connector. I couldn't find a pic of the type I prefer, but it's similar to this but folds-over into a V-shape to come back the other way. Of course, you could just bend this type into a V to get the same thing. then just jump teh two connectors with a short jumper wire. Available at automotive and electronics stores:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks David! I've got a better idea what to do now and how to do it. I need to check and see just what bulb I've got in there now but I think there H4's if I remember right. I also want to check to see what the housings are made of, I think they're all metal.

Can't wait to try this out.
 
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