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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

Well i finally ran her last night. My best slip was a 14.6 @ 95. 60ft was 2.49. 1/8th mile was 9.59 @ 77. This is significantly better than last year, but i was hoping to be going faster. If anyone could suggest areas to focus on for improvement(besides the driver, i already know abou tthat one), i would be indebted. Here is my setup:

1963 Fairlane 3200lbs give or take
mid eighties rebuilt 5.0 .030 over
Trick Flow twisted wedge heads 2.02/1.6
Motorsport Alum. roller rockers
Trick Flow Hydraulic roller cam
Advertised Duration 275 intake/279 exhaust
Duration at .050 221 intake/225 exhaust
Camshaft Lift: .312 intake/.319 in. exhaust
Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arms: .499 intake/.510 exhaust
Lobe Seperation (Degrees): 112
Performer RPM intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb w/ mechanical second
MSD probillet dist. w/ 6AL and blaster2 coil
March underdrive pulleys (crank,alt,wpump)
17in flex fan
Tremec 3550 trans
11in sacs clutch
8in w/ powertrax lockright diff w/ 3.55
225/35 radials on 15x7 cragar s/s @28 psi
base timing 12 degrees

Unfortunately i didnt have my tach wired up, but i had a 6000 chip in, and i imagine i was shifting pretty near it. Sorry for the long post, but i was hoping you guys could give me a few suggestions to lower these ETs! thanks -joe
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

60ft seems pretty high. Did it spin? About what rpm did you leave? Did it seem stronger on the top end or did it seem to lay down?

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: fxcomet on 6/9/02 1:26am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

it spun like a son of a gun if i left at anything other than idle. the only way i could get it not spin was to come off the clutch slow and lay it into it gradually. It pulled strong straight through, although when i pulled fourth just before the traps it may have fell of a bit, im not sure.

Also i forgot to say that i have stock manifolds with 2.25 pipes through 3 chamber flowmasters. thanks -joe
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

Well-
Nice combo in a cool car, BUT horrible 60 ft. 1. Try to lower the pressure in your street tradials to about 22psi, migh thelp a little. 2. Sticky tires!!!!!! All the power in the world is useless without traction. If you can drop your 60 ft.'s to 2.0 then you could see a .6 sec reduction in your ET in the 1/4. You can try a small burnout and then a long burnout on your radials to see if that improves traction. Don't let anyone tell you that radials don't like burouts (ie- get slippery)- it depnds on the tire! I have seen a 5.0 Mustang hit 1.89 60 ft's on BFGoodrich Potenzas after a serious burnout. Traction is THE ANSWER!!!!

JL


edit- How about traction bars?

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Jim Langley

Technical Editor

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'65 Mustang GT, 289 (Warp 65)

'92 Mustang, 5.0 T5Z (Green Machine II)



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FasterDamnit! on 6/9/02 1:58am ]</font>
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

A 650 double pumper (Bigs would be nice) would be perfect. The 600 E-Bok is a bit on the small size for that engine.

Be sure not to do any burnouts in the water. Treaded tires fling water all over the wheelwells, which drips all over the place and you end up launching on wet tires in a puddle of water. If possible, you want to drive completely around the water so the front tires don't get wet either. They will track plenty of water to the line as well.

Get some REAL drag tires for that thing if you're serious about hitting the track very often. MT 26x8.5 ET-Drags or Hoosier 26x8 or 26x9's would be perfect.

Good Luck!
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

Throw the edelbrock carb in the can and get a 650dp , with a manual you definatly should run a dp, i run a 700.

lowside
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

While I have no numbers to back it up, I went from the the same Edelbrock carb you
have to a Bigs 650dp. The difference was simply amazing. Went from a sedate cruiser
to tire burning animal.
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

Tire=traction, tires=traction....I think everyone else said it pretty well. It's hard to tell what areas you can step up for more power until you start putting what you have to the ground.
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

These guys are right, it's in the tires, BUT, practice, practice, practice!!! I can run within .30 seconds with a street tire on my Cyclone Spoiler(429SCJ 4:30 drag-pak) I just ran about 25-30 passes a weekend until I got the right feel for the clutch & tires. Slicks do make one grab though!!!
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

I just happened to be looking at my time slips a while ago and I over looked my best 60' which happens to be a 1.93, I say that to confirm what Fasterdamnit was saying. Altough slicks would be the way to go you can still get decent 60' with street tires. BTW I am using BFG`s 245-50-16, and I run a T-5 with 4:11`s so starts from a dead stop are challenging for me also. So you know I do get the rear tires wet, what I do is back into the burn out box and roll the rear tires into the water then pull forward out of the water ( only because I start the burnouts in 2nd gear, it is easier on the tranny ), I put the tranny in 2nd gear and let her rip, I only hold it for a few seconds but at 5500 in second gear that is all I need, they heat up fast.

If it helps what I do off the line is pretty simple, I hold the brake after stageing at the same time I am loading the clutch, brakeing keeps me from rolling thru the lights, when the last amber flashes I just let out the clutch the rest of the way and almost simultaneously pounding the throttle, but with enough delay that the rpm`s dont come up, effectively bogging the engine but not killing it, when the throttle plates open it just squats and takes off with out smoeking the tires off the line, this is how I have produced my best 60' with my car, the more I do it the more consistant I am, in seattle I had 4 60' times in the 2.0 something range, at Woodburn I have two 60' under 2.0 a 1.99 and a 1.93. Hope that helps you out.
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

This really helps the new racers w/ the 60 ft. concept.

www.smokemup.com/auto_math/60_foot.php

A calculator showing average g-force and MPH! for a given 60ft.

If you input your 2.49 60ft. you get .6 G and 32.9mph.

Try 2.0 60 ft. and you get .94 G and 40.9mph
Try 1.9 60ft. and you get 1 G and 43.1mph-
That's over a 10mph difference on the first 60 ft!

While this is an estimation, it does show the importance of the launch in lowering ET's.





JL
 

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Hit the track for the 1st time last night, hoping you guys could help me interpret these numbers

As everyone else said, you need to work on the traction bit. maybe some drag radials and as wide a rim/tire combo as you can go. then to help out a lot more:
1. go with a 650 double pumper as mentioned
2. 2.5 inch dual exhaust would be a good upgrade, but ATLEAST get a set of 1 5/8" headers (full lenghts preferably)
3. If its in your budget go for a steeper gear, like 4.11
 
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