Today was some wiring. I ran a fish tape through the bed to pull the fuel pump power internally. I also ran a stretch of wire for fuel sender. My sender wire was crunchy with insulation falling off. I ran both wires through the existing grommet for the fuel sender wire. It was tight and hard so I drilled it out a bit.
My car already had a gm style distributor so I got a new plug at the auto parts store and soldered the wires together. This is where the sniper pulls rpm from in this case. Before and after wrapping the wires with electrical tape to mimick factory wrapping
I installed the new fuel filler line with return line fitting in place. I went to attach the return line. I was going to use the original supply line but knew it was a compromise. Instructions say max of 3 psi back pressure or it can affect the system. I ended up finding a kink in one metal line so decided to abandon. Picked up a bit over 14 feet of 3/8 line and installed that. I think it’s basically ready to go. When I get around to firing it up I’m going to cycle the ignition a couple times and have the fuel into a gas can to flush the line. Then I’ll install and see how it goes. Using a universal fuel filler. I’ve been unable to find an air cleaner wing nut at auto part stores. I found this at ace hardware
My car is rough all around. It’s been wrecked a number of ways and crawling under it I’ve found some fiberglass in the floor. So I’m not too worried about putting holes in it. For the fuel line I just drilled into the underside of the car and riveted the fuel line retainer clips to the car. If I get around to doing the Galaxie I expect to take more time and do more prep work. I’ll probably want to run hard lines and make it look more factory. But they joy with the beat up ranchero is the freedom.
I ran outside today to see if I could get it to fire. Went through setup wizard. Everything looked good. All sensors working properly. Fuel pump runs as it should. No start. I noticed that the rpm stays at stall and doesn’t sync and read crank rpm. So I clearly have an issue with the rpm signal. I pulled cap and looked at all wires. Everything with the distributor looked fine. Then my lunch ended. That is where we sit. Big disappointment for now. When I get more time I’ll have to do some troubleshooting. Pic before fuel supply connected
I’m at a standstill. I went out today and checked with an ohm meter to make sure the signal was getting from the tach output on the gm style hei to the junction. Everything reads good on the handheld but it still shows no tach signal on the handheld while cranking. I’ve been researching how to test the tach output and I have not found anything hard and fast. Mostly start car and let it idle….. I do have variability in volts from rest to cranking. I had no issues with the output previously when I had a tach in the car. I did find it strange that I got 12v at the tach output with ignition on but no crank. I have been unable to find anything online regarding what it should be. If anyone has any suggestions I’m open to it. I emailed Holley help today and got a message that it will take two days to respond. I’m a bit disheartened. Every other element of it is great and checks out perfect. The handheld is a great diagnostic tool. Sadly it can’t tell me why the computer is not reading a tach signal.
I called Holley support and they ran me through the installation wizard again and it fired right up. Very happy. I haven’t gotten it to run smooth yet, the throttle that I redesigned from what was there is hanging up a bit. Just dug in today a little. Ran out of time. I’m just happy it fired and will probably need to install a return spring. Just wanted to provide the update. I expect with the non stock elements I had that in did the setup wizard incorrectly
I’ve been on the phone with Holley several times now. They have mostly been very knowledgeable and helpful but I’m still stuck. I’ve added grounds directly from base of sniper unit to ground. Pulled and cleaned ground from engine to body. Added a ground from battery to body and still the same issue. Starts beautifully then struggles and dies. I’ve run with and without air cleaner at their suggestion for RFI and put foil all over the place at their suggestion. Now I’m questioning everything. Despite running great before pulling it apart and having no issue laying rubber I’m questioning everything. I’m down to replacing ignition components upping my grounds to battery leaf size everywhere doing a compression test. I’m disheartened. It’s just beyond my reach. I can taste how good it can be when it first fires up. It runs so sweetly for about 3 seconds.
I have a '79 C10 355 with a mild cam. I've installed a Holley Sniper with HyperSpark ignition. The truck cranks and fires, but will not stay running. Occasionally, it will start and idle very well for a few seconds, but then dies as if someone shut off the key. I have multiple datalogs, I have...
have you tried it without the air cleaner installed?
i've also seen mention of some alternators generating too much RFI - maybe pull the belt off?
After a few minutes of idling, I loose RPM, TPS & WBO2. The ECU then cuts on & off then it completely turns off. I'll leave it off for a hour, let it cool down, and the cycle continues. It only seems to happen when warm, but I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the problem though. My...
Thanks for the feedback and links. I spoke with Holley again yesterday. For testing purposes I ran the pink directly to battery with a connector so I can easily connect. They also suggested the yellow wire cannot be in parallel with any other wire in the engine bay, it needs to run it’s own route. I pulled apart all the loom I put together. With these two things done it is the same but the engine will struggle to stay running longer. Holley said I need to run grounds between everything. Head to block and each to frame. All I’m missing is a ground from head to block and block to frame. This seems to be grasping at straws. I spoke with my brother who has done numerous successful efi conversions with junk yard parts and he suggested back to basics and make sure fuel pressure is good and consistent. Today I’ll probably run out and pick up a fuel pressure gauge. I will try it without the alternator belt. That’s an interesting idea and would eliminate a system from the diagnostic process.
if Holley tech support is anything like the tech support at my work...it'll be very hit-or-miss with the people answering the phone. you may get someone knowledgeable - or you may get someone in their first week on the job.
don't give up - i would say that if re-routing the yellow wire made a difference, you're hopefully on the right track with the electrical interference.
Update! Broke down and picked up a fuel pressure gauge. Ignition on and it came right up. Fired it up and it will now run for about 30 seconds. Watched the gauge slowly drop to 10psi. Not good. Cycled ignition and it came up to 40. Cycled again and then to proper pressure. Fired it up and I’m getting variable noise out of the pump. And then it wouldn’t really create any pressure. I ran a direct from battery to pump and it didn’t change anything. Called Holley and they are sending me a new pump. Hope renewed!