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In the middle of putting together my first motor. As it seems is a common thing, my budget is spent on go fast parts and not tools. So when It came time to yank the caps off my rods I found myself in a pickle. Spend 300+ bucks or make my own.

I decided to make my own. I located a piece of nylon at work 2.5" OD. I didnt want to use anything besides a plastic just to avoid damaging any surface. Turned it down to 2.100. Now being a machinist I have ALOT of one time use tools and this will be one of them! Depending on the size of the big end with and without a bearing installed you will want to turn it down to a size that will allow you to fit the tool inside the rod end with a bearing in it. Next I drilled a 1/2" hole through the center, so I could use a tapered pin to push through the two halves. I cut the disc off at just over 1" long or the thickness of the rod. Once turned down to 2.100 and cut off I went to the high precision band saw and cut the disc half.

This picture shows the two halves with the 5/16 holes drilled and the dowl pins installed.

After its cut in half I went to a bridgeport to drill my dowl holes. I planned to use 5/16 dowls that are 3/4" long so I had to take into account my drill point and drill beyond .375. this will allow the tool to close completely when installed together, and slide when opened. Depending on how exact/ perfect you like to be depends on how you want to drill this sucker out. Im sure you could use a cordless drill and eyeball it if your in a rush but I like things a little better then that.

Now back to the bridgeport... I installed both halves into a machinist vise. With them being very close to equal halves I used a straight edge across both pieces to make them level/ perpindicular to the drill bit.


I used the drill as an edge finder and located my positions on the part. I eyeballed the center (thickness wise) since my bit would stay lined up on both pieces. The dowl holes are .562 in from the edge (length wise). i drilled the four holes .400 deep.


Dowl pin installed in a minor press fit (used a vise to push them in) you see how they line up. Now the other disc half has to have the holes slightly opened to avoid sticking from the interference fit. Here I used a cordless drill and the same 5/16 drill. I just moved the drill around the hole to open it up a bit when I had it in a bench vise.

So with the two halve put together I make sure they line up even and mark the halves with a marker so when they fall apart Id be able to put them together with ease. One of the last things to do is to deburr the part. I HATE sharp edges so I deburred the entire piece on a buffing wheel and with a file.


I didnt have a chance to make my tapered pin. So I used a small pry bar. I had enough room from the band saw cut that it allowed me to slide the bar inbetween the two pieces. With a slight tap of my home made brass hammer on the top of the bar the two pieces came apart with ease. I found it necessary to do this on top of a towel/ rag. this will stop the pieces from flying to the floor. My tapered pin will be 3 inches long (give me enough room to use my brass hammer) go from .490 to .625, which will allow me to use the tool for a bigger rod end if need be.
 
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