429 thunder jet sitting on engine stand, wire from battery to positive side of coil, pointless pertronix, coil to hot to touch why ?
it is not a stock coilUnless the coil is stock and does not have a ballast resistor built-in like aftermarket coils, there will be nothing to limit the current through the coil except the resistance of the coil wiring itself and it will get hot. Get a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor at the auto parts store and put it inline with the positive side of the coil if it is a stock coil.
You have it backward in-theory. The question is why are you powering the ignition system when not running the engine? Fortunately, there should be no damage to your parts (crossed fingers), as that version of module has current limiters in it.429 thunder jet sitting on engine stand, wire from battery to positive side of coil, pointless pertronix, coil to hot to touch why ?
PSIG, you may be reading my mind- i was hoping this would turn into a conversation about the differences between the Ignitors.Looking for a silver lining; hopefully some readers learned some differences and benefits between the versions.
I'd say that's a good snapshot, and I've added some qualifications to your outline for clarity. Thanks!Ignitor I - an electronic replacement for points (retaining original coil type and coil resistor)
Ignitor II - equivalent to GM's HEI (if used with proper new low-ohm coil type, e.g., 45011, and no coil resistor)
Ignitor III - equivalent to MSD's box with the rev limiter (if used with proper new coil type, e.g., 60103 or 44011, and no coil resistor)