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Discussion Starter #1
I lost my ability to run my old tailpipes after doing the mini-tub. I've collected some mandrel bends and am now preparing to build my own tailpipes. I've been playing around with the bends and came up with a plan on the tightest side of the car.

What I need to know is, how close to the body can I get without having heat issues on the underside, like burning off the paint?

Not talking about fuel lines, brake lines or the fuel tank--just things like the frame and the outer trunk panels.
 

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I lost my ability to run my old tailpipes after doing the mini-tub. I've collected some mandrel bends and am now preparing to build my own tailpipes. I've been playing around with the bends and came up with a plan on the tightest side of the car.

What I need to know is, how close to the body can I get without having heat issues on the underside, like burning off the paint?

Not talking about fuel lines, brake lines or the fuel tank--just things like the frame and the outer trunk panels.
I would think pretty close, .5" maybe little less? I did a truck years ago and ran the pipes thru the bed sides. didn't even have that and paint never got weird.
When we made the exhaust for son's first car a couple places were pretty close, less than 1 inch and again nothing. Tailpipes don't get as hot as headers/manifolds.

Lou

Just wanted to add. I also had a CJ with fenderwell headers/sidepipes. The sidepipes were close enough to rub when off roading or on a twist, paint never burnt.
 

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Speaking of closeness I got something I donot like at all. On a 66 fairlane big block with hooker headers one pipe is only 1/8th away from the oil filter near touching. That does not look safe at all. I have had many big blocks and just noticed it, stupid of me I guess or didnot remember from long ago. The motor fixing to go into fairlane the headers near rub. I got same headers and same motor in my 69 mustang so I looked. Same thing 1/8th away is all. I asked the shop and he stated he has a adaptor of some kind that off sets the oil filter. First I ever heard of that but I need one. Looks like a fire wishing somewhere to happen to me.......
 

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Dennis111, didnot mean to change the subject in ya thread, that just popped in my mind and my fingers typed. If the headers are that close on mine then on yours run the close and wrap the pipes. After a while that wrap I have seen will eat away at the pipe but my header problem I have no room to put a thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I would think pretty close, .5" maybe little less? I did a truck years ago and ran the pipes thru the bed sides. didn't even have that and paint never got weird.
When we made the exhaust for son's first car a couple places were pretty close, less than 1 inch and again nothing. Tailpipes don't get as hot as headers/manifolds.

Lou

Just wanted to add. I also had a CJ with fenderwell headers/sidepipes. The sidepipes were close enough to rub when off roading or on a twist, paint never burnt.
I hoped that .5" or so would be good after the mufflers and your experiences validate it. Thanks Lou.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No problem Rcode. You reminded me that my own headers are very close to the shock towers on both sides of this car. The engine compartment gets very hot during the summer and the Krylon semi-flat spray bomb paint has never blistered.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dennis, after the first 5 feet of pipe they don't get hot enough to damage any paint. So if you're past the back seat you can have it resting on the metal and it won't burn the paint.
The new piping will be after the rear axle so it sounds like I am good to go. Thanks Gary.
 

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Yep, I had a side exit exhaust running through a painted carbon fiber sidepod contacting the edge. The whole exhaust system was 3' long from valve to muffler tip, no paint problems. The Corvettes validated this pretty well with the side mounted exhaust.

Heck, I made a muffler out of regular carbon fiber and epoxy resin. It only melted in the resonating chamber section, where the packing was it was fine.
 
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