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Putting on my Scarebird disc brake kit. Question: how do you get the old inner wheel bearing out of the drum? I see it is pretty loose in there, held in by the wheel seal? Or do most folks just buy a new seal and bearing :confused: The rotors I'll be using are from a 68 Mustang.

Also there is a white paper type gasket around the spindle. Just reuse it?
 

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Seal is pretty much a one install use, most likely will damage it removing it, just pop it out with a large screwdriver or pry bar. The bearing is just loose behind it. Unless the bearings are new I would replace them, you will have to drive out the inner race.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seal is pretty much a one install use, most likely will damage it removing it, just pop it out with a large screwdriver or pry bar. The bearing is just loose behind it. Unless the bearings are new I would replace them, you will have to drive out the inner race.
Mike
Pry bar got it out, thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The FSM seems to say tighten the wheel nut 75-110 but I saw a youtube where the recommendation was tighten till the rotor will turn slowly, then back off 1/2 or enough to let it turn easily. What's the answer?
 

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That's the lug nut torque value. For the spindle nut I think my '67 manual says 17-25 ft-lbs while turning, back off a half turn and then 10-15 in-lbs while turning.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ahh good catch. OK, I put the caliper on, tightened it up but there is a 1/8" and 1/4" gap between the rotor and pads. Normal?
 

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Hey Puttster...hope all is going well with your install. How did you find the conversion was? I'm considering this for my 66. Did you need to buy everything from the master cylinder down? If you don't mind me asking, approx how much did it set you back? My master cylinder needs replacing as it's sticking on when applied (have to "under" tow the pedal to release) and it is SOOO touchy when you do apply it. I figure that if I'm going to replace the M/C, I may as well just do the front disc conversion. Thoughts?

Darren
 

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Also there is a white paper type gasket around the spindle. Just reuse it?
Actually, that's crushed thin foam that goes between your spindles and your backing plates to stop noise and rubbing. You can reuse them if they're in good shape, or cut new ones from the thin foam sometimes used to wrap delicate stuff like electronics or fine silverware in packaging. More spongy and flexible than meat packaging trays or foam dinner plates but about the same thickness originally.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Darren, so far, so good. I'll install the right side today and give it a test. A few weeks ago I swapped out the master cylinder. I got a 1988 Bronco II disc/drum MC, bled it, and it bolted right up to the booster using the same rod. I think the 65 is lucky because there is no clip holding the rod into the MC.

I got a 3/16 to 9/16 and a 3/16 to 7/16 adapter for the MC. Then used a 3/16 plug for the front port and a 12" 3/16 flared tube for the rear. I bent that around and connected it with the old tube using a 3/16 - 3/16 union. Bled the brakes using speed bleeders on the rears and gravity on the fronts and drove it around. Worked great, maybe a tad softer that what was on there before. The only tool I bought was a $5 brake wrench. here's a pic. That gave me some confidence so I decided to go ahead with the Scarebird conversion.
 

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