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I’m doing a stock’ish rebuild of my engine. I have my ‘62 260 heads and block at the machine shop. Block is being cleaned and honed. Valve job on the heads, and whatever else they need.
Question is the original heads have the pressed in studs. It looks like all the replacement camshafts available for my engine, even the “smallest” grinds, have a lot more lift than the original. So how high of lift can I go before I need screw in studs?
Thanks
 

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It's not as much lift as it is spring pressure. I'd be leery to go over 250-260 open, and to be honest with you, if the car is a keeper, the cost to go screw in and fully adjustable is cheap money, I'd urge you to do it, or go with an inexpensive aluminum head if prices start creeping up.

That being said, if it's a stocker, you can buy cams with .475-ish lift and calm valve action, you can even buy stock cams, and it may live forever.

I will say though, be sure to watch retainer to seal clearance when you add lift, as well as choose the proper coil spring for the cam choice. Don't cheat or guess on springs, it can get very ugly if you stack a coil and drop a valve. I'd also recommend cutting the guides to take a .530 Viton positively located seal.
 

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Great advice from My427stang . The good thing is the studs have been there for 57 years. I also agree that a cam like a hipo 289 ( .300 lobe lift) is a good choice. #250 open spring pressure is good too. If you are really worried you could drill into the stud bosses ( through the stud too) and insert a roll pin to keep the stud from pulling out. That eliminates any concerns .
Randy
 
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