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I’m doing a stock’ish rebuild of my engine. I have my ‘62 260 heads and block at the machine shop. Block is being cleaned and honed. Valve job on the heads, and whatever else they need.
Question is the original heads have the pressed in studs. It looks like all the replacement camshafts available for my engine, even the “smallest” grinds, have a lot more lift than the original. So how high of lift can I go before I need screw in studs?
Thanks
 

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It's not as much lift as it is spring pressure. I'd be leery to go over 250-260 open, and to be honest with you, if the car is a keeper, the cost to go screw in and fully adjustable is cheap money, I'd urge you to do it, or go with an inexpensive aluminum head if prices start creeping up.

That being said, if it's a stocker, you can buy cams with .475-ish lift and calm valve action, you can even buy stock cams, and it may live forever.

I will say though, be sure to watch retainer to seal clearance when you add lift, as well as choose the proper coil spring for the cam choice. Don't cheat or guess on springs, it can get very ugly if you stack a coil and drop a valve. I'd also recommend cutting the guides to take a .530 Viton positively located seal.
 

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Great advice from My427stang . The good thing is the studs have been there for 57 years. I also agree that a cam like a hipo 289 ( .300 lobe lift) is a good choice. #250 open spring pressure is good too. If you are really worried you could drill into the stud bosses ( through the stud too) and insert a roll pin to keep the stud from pulling out. That eliminates any concerns .
Randy
 

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I absolutely agree with 427stang, it is spring pressure. Usually spring pressure (seat and open are based more on duration than lift). I'm sure there is some 700 lift, 200 degree duratuion cam out there that would live just fine with press in studs but I still wouldn't risk it. Btw this assuming the proper springs with no coul bind. Coil bind will rip out pressed studs fast. Screw in studs are such a cheap upgrade. Intake and head gaskets and maybe a hundred bucks or so to a machine shop. Another 75 for polylock style nuts and you have something that ready for almost anything.
 

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Great advice from My427stang . The good thing is the studs have been there for 57 years. I also agree that a cam like a hipo 289 ( .300 lobe lift) is a good choice. #250 open spring pressure is good too. If you are really worried you could drill into the stud bosses ( through the stud too) and insert a roll pin to keep the stud from pulling out. That eliminates any concerns .
Randy
I don't like pinning the studs. I have had studs break, and pinning just makes them that much more of a pain to pull... especially in the car. Screw in studs are not that hard/expensive to do... and for the cost difference in pinning... are a very worthwhile upgrade. I've pulled the studs by stacking rocker arm balls, and using a nut to pull them out. You then mill the pad down the thickness of the hex on the stud, and tap it. There are tools used in a hand drill to mill the pads, but the tapping has to be done in a fixture that taps perfectly square to the head, or the studs will be pointing in all directions. (Don't ask out I learned that after porting my first set of heads at around 18 years old) lol

That being said, the studs have been in there for almost 60 years, so they're probably not coming out easily. Either leave them and be conservative with spring pressure/lift rate... or step up to screw-in studs/aftermarket heads.

For a 'stockish' 260, I'd install a Comp Cams 260 High Energy with the stock studs, and call it 'good'. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the 60 year old valve springs, but that cam won't need anything wild. What it will call for is well within the capabilities of the stock pressed in studs.

Good Luck
 

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n2omike is right. New springs and have threaded studs only installed, don't need guide plates. With the covers on, only you'll know.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys.
I ended up tracking down a stock cam anyway. So never followed up on this.
 
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