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Discussion Starter #1
I just got an electric water temp, oil pressure, voltmeter gauge panel for my car. I'm just curious, on my 289 with a RPM intake, after market aluminum water pump, and stock radiator, and 180 degree thermostat, how hot should the car run, and when should I start worrying? Thanks.
 

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I never worry unless it gets to 200, but it has not got that high yet, but it gets to 195 in a hurry on hot days in traffic, but I have never had an issue, just check your hose clamps regularly, make sure you dont have leeks and that your radiator cap is in good condition and you should be able to handle 200 plus untill you can get some fresh air. As a side note turn on your heater to help cool your engine if neccessary, also if you are creeping in freeway traffic pop the hood and let the fresh air in, these are just last resort hints but work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, after about five minutes of driving, my temp guage read 200. Could I need a new radiator? Also, I took out my fan shroud because I chopped it up once when my motor mounts broke. Could that be a contributing factor?

Also, after I put my intake back together, I started having doubts as to whether or not I put the thermostat in the right way. Would the engine be that cool with a backwards thermostat, with the only flow of water coming from the bypass hose?
 

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with small blocks, especially ones that've been bored .030 or .060, I get worried at 220. I had one of our 306's up to 280 and still made a pass at the drags, no problems. Also used to run a 460 in a pulling truck for an hour and a half at 230. After about 15 trips to the races pulling the race car, it finally broke the rings in 7 cylinders, but that's all that happened to it.
 

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I am not a big fan of shrouds ( figure that pun out LOL ) although it would be a good idea to get one back on your car. If your car heats up that fast and does not show signs of cooling down then you might have your thermostat in bassacwards, nothing is immpossible.
 

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I had my current 302 hit 260 once, (bad clogged radiator) but it seemed to run fine after that. Maybe thats why the thing is dead now? Hehehe. Ya, I think 210 is going to be the shutdown zone on my new engine...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, it's wierd. I drove it for half an hour about an hour ago, at night, (it's about 65 degrees), and it still ran a steady 200 degrees. It doesn't matter, traffic, 100 mph, day, night, it's all at 200 degrees. The needle on the stock gauge was at about 1o'clock steady, same conditions, so I put new gauge and sender thinking it was the gauge. Guess not.

If I DID put the thermostat in backwards, could the bypass hose and the heater hose provide enough cooling to keep the motor at 200 flat? Also, since it's summer (almost), what about running without a thermostat?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I almost forgot, I also replaced the fan clutch with one of those replacements from Summit. It was a Flex-a-lite.
 

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A crossflow radiator almost always needs a shroud. Be sure all the air is moving through the radiator, not around it or through other areas. I personally have never had an electric guage read correct. I use Auto-Meter mechanical guages. I was suprised when I found out how hot I had been running. Also see how lean your intake mixture is. That will make it go way up too. I borrow a friends infra-red temp gun to read mine, don't cost nuthin!
 

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Dont ever...ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever run a street car without a thermostat.All that accomplishes is making the fluid in your radiator the same temp as the fluid in your block with no chance of slowing down enough in the radiator to exchange the heat.
 

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I think it is a problem with the thermostat
I have a 1966 mustang with a 289 that I am running a electric fan on and it always stays on 180. I have the fan on a switch and the only time I turn it on is when I get stuck in traffic for a while. It does not have a shroud either.
I don't want to step on your toes bossman but engines run cooler without thermostats. You will have a greater temperature drop across the radiator running a thermostat, but less heat will be removed.
 

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NO engine should ever be regularly be driven without a T-stat. The stat is there for a reason. The reason is to keep the oil @ a useable temp. The oil has an operating range. Not running the T-stat does not allow the oil to reach its operational range. This means it does not lubricate properly. One look inside an engine that has run for any length of time without a stat will show you it is not good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, OK!!
I won't take out the thermostat! I'll try putting my chopped up shroud back on, and if it helps, I'll put one in better condition on. Going to the junk yard soon anyway. If that doesn't help, then I guess I'll check the thermostat installation. I did check the thermostat before I installed it in hot water, and it did open at around 180-185 degrees.

Should I maybe try putting in a 160 degree stat?
 

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A lower t-stat won't change anything, just open a little sooner. Just change 1 thing at a time so you'll know what it was. BTW, nice car!
 

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A cooler thermostat won't help any. If it won't keep cool after it opens at 180*, putting in a lower degree t-stat is moot. It might take a little longer to get hot, but it will still get hot.
Make sure the fins are all straight on your radiator. I'd try to find a better shroud and use your beat up one in the meantime. It might be worth spending a couple bills and getting a 4 core radiator. A new one is relatively cheap ($200+ or -) considering how important they are. Good luck.
 

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My 302 opens at 160 and sits on 180, on a raelly hot day itl go to 190-195, these are with Sport Comp Gauges, on an original gauge how much woul 195 be?: 3/4 or closer to hot

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: NITROMAN on 4/24/02 7:51am ]</font>
 

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Well If your T-stat opens at 180..then it doesnt become fully open until 200..The way they rate stats is by telling at what temp it begins to open..add 20 degrees and thats when its fully open..so if you are wanting to keep it around 180..then yeah, i would put a 160 stat in it..You say no matter what the condition it stays at 200..so everything sounds like its working they way its supposed to...
 

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Engines can safely be run much hotter than most people think. The key is preventing the coolant from boiling which creates pockets of vapor. Vapor will not absorb heat nearly as good as the liquid coolant does, therefore hot spots appear and engine damage results. However, with a good 25psi pressure cap and a 60%-40% or 70%-30% antifreeze/water ratio, the coolant temperatures can reach approx 270 degrees and still remain liquid, and can still adequately absorb enough engine heat to prevent damage.
 
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