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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, After a hard shift into second I bent the z-bar and lost the spring. I noticed that the clutch fork has some play in it now. I can move it back in forth 1/4 inch or so. Everything feels really lose down there. I put a new spring on and placed the clutch rod into the fork and it just dosent feel right... Like something is broken inside the lakewood scattersheild. In the mean time I'm going to strenghten the z-bar, But curious about the clutch fork. I don't really want to go inside the scattersheild cause thats a PITA. Thanks for any info/help.
 

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1/4" for and aft movement is the way my Mustang is. The play allows the throwout bearing to be pulled away from the clutch fingers when the clutch pedal is not being pushed. Helps prevent the bearing from riding on the fingers, especially at higher RPM's. Actually, mine has more as I have 1/4" fork play at the bearing (which in my case is the minimum recommended. 3/8" there is preferred.) With the return spring unhooked, I can (just barely) pull the z-bar rod out of the fork socket. I have a long style clutch. Diaphragm clutches are often run closer.

How much play do you have at the pedal? Is it an inch or so? Does the pedal itself feel the same as before?

Hopefully you now have your z-bar supported properly on the engine side or all this is nil.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Dennis - Ok so it seems that the play there is normal then/ As for the clutch pedal, I have to push it down quit abit before it grabs anything at all. Not sure exactly what the distance is but I have a feeling that it is more than normal. I have to replace the whole Z-BAR unit as mine is now bent and loose. It just has to be beefier than stock, As it wont last very long in stock form. It looks like I will have to make one though cause it dosent sound like the above one I posted for a 65 mustang will fit a 65 falcon. The ones I see for the 65 falcon are just stock peices that will bend/break very quickly. Thanks once again.
 

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If your pedal needs pushed much more than an inch from the top before you can feel any resistance from the PP (assuming it starts at a "normal" location) then the clutch is out of adjustment. Check the resistance by hand when the motor is off.

For all we can tell right now, the loose z-bar is the cause of this. Until its installed correctly, you are chasing something that you cannot fix with simple adjustments.

I wouldn't drive the car until I got the z-bar taken care of as driving it as it is now puts undo stress on the clutch assembly and the clip that holds the fork to the scattershield. As you said, you don't want to go into the can unless you have too.
 

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While reading this post I may have too much free play on my pedal . Do you check it physically from underneath or just I looked up the measurement for a 66 Mustang and believe it is done by measuring off the floor to the pedal. What is the preferred method.




Greg
 

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Greg, I've always "eyeball" measured the free play which is the gap at the pedal from when you first push it until the point when there is some resistance (which is when all the slack is taken up.) I have never done it from the floor up. Read the section entitled "Clutch Adjustment" in the following link that mimics how I adjust virtually every US stick vehicle I have ever own:

Ford Mustang Clutch Service - Mustang Monthly

More free play is OK as long as the gears are engaging clearly and a professional clutch builder I knew years ago preferred it for his clutches. If there is undue hesitation or grinding when shifting into any gear, then less free play (higher pedal engagement) may cure this. I am sure that professional transmission builders would probably recommend this approach instead.
 
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