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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,
I've not been on here for a while but I hope some of you guys will answer some question concerning my old 63 Galaxie engine. I've decided to build up another engine and I need some advice. Here's what I have:
C3AE Block with 2J14 forge date ( no 352 on front left side )
I've got a 4.04 bore and a 3.5" stroke. Someone put a 352 in it. The gap between my cylinder walls inside is .235". I can barely get a 15/64 allen wrench between the cylinders.
Jim Dove in his Tips on Building an FE engine provides a chart on how much you can bore these blocks depending on the gap between cylinders inside the block. With my particular engine he claims I can bore it out to 4.13" without having problems.
Have I got a particularlly heavy engine that can be bored this much without having heating problems or is his chart leaning toward a too optimistic approach to building a dependable engine for cruising 10K miles a year and occasional drag racing. Thanks, Jim
 

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In my opinion, the only real way to know how far you can bore out to is to get the cylinders sonic checked. That is about the only way to really know how thick the walls are to start with. By sonic checking, you know what the top, middle and bottom of the bore walls measure at 90* quadrants. I would think that by taking a block that started with a 4 inch bore and punching it out to 4.13" you are asking for problems.
 

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I replied on Jays site, but I agree, sonic check it

In addition, if you want cubes, go 4.25 stroke, there just is no downside. Even if you stay 4.08, it's 445 cid.

I have seen kits out there with all new parts for mid 1700s, hard to beat a 445 inch FE for that
 

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Some thoughts.

You can spend $ for a sonic and mag check and still waste your money.

If you bore 428 and the block does crack you may have a crank, balance, flexplate and a set of pistons that you can't use. If go with a 428 stroker kit (460 cu in) it will cost more initially but if the block breaks everything except the pistons could still be usable in a 390.

The increase in cubes from a 390+030 to a 428 is 33 cu in, which is probably feel-able. From a 428 to a 445, probably not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My427stang,
I ended up going a different way. I had a set of 4.05 Z381NP 410 pistons setting on the self along with a good set of C7AE 6.49 rods. Soooo, I ordered a Eagle Crank and I'll order a 428 Steel Flywheel from McLeod as soon as I find out if I need 24 oz or 28 oz counter weights. Along with .020 gaskets that'll give me 9.46 CR and 7.8 DCR. I cc'd the pistons today and got a 15cc dish. I should have about 369 hp @ 4500 rpm and 463 lbs of torque @ 3500 rpm to play with. The 75cc heads will just get the 1.65 exhausts and a 600 cfm Holley with Streetmaster intake.
$2300.00 seemed like a lot of money to put into a rotating system when it'll never see over 4500 rpm.
No more looking. Final answer. Thanks for your advice. Jim
 

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a lot of money to put into a rotating system when it'll never see over 4500 rpm.

Got to ask: why did you go with a $500 racing flywheel in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Puttster,
I've got to buy a 428 flywheel anyway and I've already got a Lakewood Bell housing. I'm running a cast flywheel now and don't think I'd have problems below 4500 except for what happened two weeks ago.
I go to the Kroozenationals in Huntington, In. That's the show for the late ED ROTH and his family. Anyway, they have this burnout contest and have bleacher seats inside of this covered building for people to set and watch. An old boy brings up his car and lights them up. He gets it going real good and hits second gear. About 15 seconds afterward theres a big bang and the crowd starts cheering thinking he had blown a tire. A woman sitting across from the car gets up and walks toward the ambulance parked outside with blood pouring from her chest. The guy driving the car gets out and is helped to the ambulance with his foot mangled.
I'm not going to be that guy. I have been known to "lite um up" myself. Jim
PS. By the way. You're advice about using parts that would be universally acceptable to any FE engine I would build was one of the determing factors of my decision. What would I do with a 6.7" rod or custom piston's if something happened to the engine. Off the shelf replacement parts seemed more appropriate for what I wanted in an engine.
 
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