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I should also add consistent to that for consistent good lights. I have found my spot on the tree that I can duplicate. I'm leaving when the third yellow just comes on. The problem is that it gives me a .583, .577 type of reaction time. This means I need to make up about another .06 somehow to be competitive. I tried launching from a lower rpm and the harder hit on my converter got a .495 red light. I wouldn't have thought it would make that big a difference but it did. I went back to a softer launch and tried bumping the car forward a bit once it was staged and got a .483 red light.

I'm wondering what other tricks are there for adjusting reaction time and how much time do they get you. Somebody at the track suggested I let the air down a little bit in my front tires. It apparently adds a small amount to the roll out and can help prevent a red light by a very small amount. I have non-adjustable strut rods so I have no help from my caster.


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If lowering the stage rpm got you a redlight then you need to find the middle ground between red light and the .57's you have been getting.
Footbraking takes a lot of work to be consistent.
I go to the lights at idle, just clear of the prestage I raise the rpm to about 1500 to load up the brakes a bit. I light the prestage and stop. I look at my tach and get it at 2700-3000 whatever is working that day. Then look up and get staged as shallow as possible. Staging and then rolling ahead is no way to be consistent, just cant be done. Once you have your pattern down front tire pressure adjustments can give the .01-.02 adjustment you need as the day progresses.
Good sunglasses will cut glare and make the lights seem more even as the sun comes in & out. They work at night too but running the finish line can be interesting as I found at Epping last year. I thought I had the dark blur in the other lane completely covered. I beat him by less than .001.
Seat time, seat time and more seat time if you want to get good at footbraking.
 
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