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No! There is nothing wrong with Duraspark....However....The aftermarket stuff that is sold "Now" is junk! Yea I know.....your 30yr old MSD runs great.
Duraspark has one major flaw - it still requires you to use a resistor to knock down the voltage to the coil.
less power into the coil = less power out of the coil.
Its no better than points, except for the magnetic trigger.

And yes, my 30-year-old MSD runs great. :)
i do trigger it with a Duraspark distributor.
 

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chrlsful said:
Holy-S**T

It took me over 10mins to read and figure the...post

just hit "Delete" button, dude...
Just hit the Delete" Button, Dude
Please explain where/how I can do that, Kid.

chrirsful
Nothing personal
Like I advise everyone I met, Step out of your shoes and look at what you think or say as tho you were in their shoes. Your actions and their actions will make a difference depending on what you will precede others think.

As a great person once said:
"A man is but the product of his thoughts; what he thinks, he becomes."
 

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Duraspark has one major flaw - it still requires you to use a resistor to knock down the voltage to the coil.
less power into the coil = less power out of the coil.
Its no better than points, except for the magnetic trigger.

And yes, my 30-year-old MSD runs great. :)
i do trigger it with a Duraspark distributor.
The first Duraspark system were install in 1972 and Duraspark II which starting in 1976. All Ford engines with the Duraspart system use the Magnetic system not Points. The Spark output should be around 45KV with the oil filled coil and not epoxy coil. If you replaced the Ford coil with new spark plugs and the MSD system including timing that maybe the reason you had better pickup.

I would suggest a reprogramming the C4 valve body as someone suggested.

There are two way Ford placed the Resistor:
1. Next to the Coil
2. In the wiring from the Ign switch to the coil.

The electronics of the Old System were to reduce the voltage to the points reduce damage of the Points but in-turn also reduce the voltage to the coil. The capacitor were design to charge and together with the resistor cushions the voltage to the point system. If I remember Ford started removing the Resistance in the Duraspark II system and replacing the oil fill to epoxy coils which output was about 60KV.
I
believe the wiring of the MSD requires you to directly connect to the 12v system which will bypass the resistor if wired correctly.
 

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the Duraspark-2 system (blue grommet) still used the ballast resistor.
The "California-only" Duraspark-1 (red grommet) didn't use a resistor, but i've never run across one.

yes, the wiring of the MSD allows you to bypass the resistor.
keeping everything else the same - replacing the DS2 with any module that allows you to bypass the resistor results in an immediate improvement.
more voltage in, more voltage out.
 

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the Duraspark-2 system (blue grommet) still used the ballast resistor.
The "California-only" Duraspark-1 (red grommet) didn't use a resistor, but i've never run across one.

yes, the wiring of the MSD allows you to bypass the resistor.
keeping everything else the same - replacing the DS2 with any module that allows you to bypass the resistor results in an immediate improvement.
more voltage in, more voltage out.
I think your getting defensive because I said "If I remember.." I stand corrected. If you would of read the entire posting I believe we both agree the resistor is a issue and on bypassing of the Resistor.

I don't understand why individuals like the kid get so upset when a honest opinion is mention but is to point out maybe others same understanding of want maybe unreadable. This and others Forums are to educate others which may or may not understand the subject and is asking for opinion's from others.

If I would take the same tech lingual as the kid by answering in electron theory or Moores Law I believe other readers would have the same problems trying to figure out what the hell I was saying.

What if I can also inject, By increasing the voltage using let say an adjustable DC-DC step up 20A, 30A or even 50A Module and capacitor. If the input of the coil voltage is a stable constant 15v or up to 18v DC?
 

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Actually a better analogy of my example concerning what the kid wrote if I would of answered in half English and half French or even half German.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Alright. Long story to follow..
The car is 79 Ford thunderbird Heritage with 302 and C4. Everything stock.
Suspension was done maybe about 5to10 years ago, frame is solid.
Engine is performing well and all compression at 130psi.
Carburetor is a reman one with 2 years on it.

Recent work i done on the car:
1. Reroute the fuel line with covered with heat wrap and 3 way filter to let the vapor back to tank.
2. Electrionic Fuel pump back next to tank, constant 6.5psi at engine bay.
3. All brake change, brake line change, brake fluid change.
4. Radiater new, 3 row aluminum radiator.
5. Recharged AC
6. Re adjust the choke
7. With the original distributor still working, changed router and cap.
8. Installed MSD 6A system, without replace the resistor wire, get signal directly from distributor, no duraspark.
9. New spark plug wire & spark.
10. Bring Transimission kick down feature back to work.
11. Check all vacuum line, vacuum leak proof.

Ok, so any suggestion?
I just got a set of aluminum cylinder head with 62cc combustion chamber and 175cc intake runner.
With 4bbl intake manifold. Dont want to mess with carburetor so plan keep using 2150,4bbl to 2bbl adatper in hand. New header aswell, and plan on do a EGR-AIR-CAT delete. No emission law here

Once again, the thunderbird is a heavy cruiser. Not a super performance car. The original 133hp is just so Unsafe when driving on road nowadays, it need 14 secs from 0-60. So what am looking is about 200hp, which The transmission can handle, and also the rest of the car.

Plus, That rear differential is so strange, really hard to do a oil change..
 

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1979 T-Bird is what we call a "Land Yacht". Get a 351W short block, even a bone stock one and use the heads you just got and put them on it. Get a 351W Pref manifold, dual exhaust, 600 CFM Carb. Rebuild the Trans for better shifting. Your diff is most likely a 9" with a 2.75 gearing. Cruise but no get-up-and go to it. You could change that to a 3.25 and still not kill MPG.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
1979 T-Bird is what we call a "Land Yacht". Get a 351W short block, even a bone stock one and use the heads you just got and put them on it. Get a 351W Pref manifold, dual exhaust, 600 CFM Carb. Rebuild the Trans for better shifting. Your diff is most likely a 9" with a 2.75 gearing. Cruise but no get-up-and go to it. You could change that to a 3.25 and still not kill MPG.
Besides that. Ive having a weired issue When shifting from 1 to 2, it will hesitate a bit. Which the RPM will drop and almost fill like engine going to stall. But if im accelerating or give it more throttle that wont happen. Vacuum line checked and vacuum module is new.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
1979 T-Bird is what we call a "Land Yacht". Get a 351W short block, even a bone stock one and use the heads you just got and put them on it. Get a 351W Pref manifold, dual exhaust, 600 CFM Carb. Rebuild the Trans for better shifting. Your diff is most likely a 9" with a 2.75 gearing. Cruise but no get-up-and go to it. You could change that to a 3.25 and still not kill MPG.
U really sure the cost to replace the whole engine to 351W worth the gain? I ve been heard somewhere 302 is a pretty solid engine that should be able to handle a lot of thing rather than 133hp.
I will sure rebuild the trans, but i am worry what will happen compare the intake runner between 130cc?? to the 175cc i have now. Am i not able to idle anymore?
 

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302 is a solid, but does have some bad weak points, rods bolts mainly but just to small an engine to move that heavy of a car.
351W is a much stronger engine and bolts up to everything you have, acc, motor mounts and trans. Your trans now is just old and is starting to have issues and it's programed for a nice soft "luxury" shift.
Your intake runner size is for Low or High RPM flow which will also effect engine response. 351W will work with that head. 302 will also but response will be a little bogey.
I owned a 2dr, 72 LTD Brougham. Started as a 429 4bbl and I rebuilt the engine and made it a 460, you know how to do that, right Gizmo? I also changed to DOVE heads for higher comp ratio, dual exhaust and Pref Intake with q 780 Holley, that's a carb Gizmo. It had a 9" with 2.75 gears and I changed them to 3.25 posi. I used it for towing a 18', 2,100#, dual axle auto trailer with a 3300# car on the auto trailer, didn't want Gizmo to assume it was on top of the LTD. Never had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
302 is a solid, but does have some bad weak points, rods bolts mainly but just to small an engine to move that heavy of a car.
351W is a much stronger engine and bolts up to everything you have, acc, motor mounts and trans. Your trans now is just old and is starting to have issues and it's programed for a nice soft "luxury" shift.
Your intake runner size is for Low or High RPM flow which will also effect engine response. 351W will work with that head. 302 will also but response will be a little bogey.
I owned a 2dr, 72 LTD Brougham. Started as a 429 4bbl and I rebuilt the engine and made it a 460, you know how to do that, right Gizmo? I also changed to DOVE heads for higher comp ratio, dual exhaust and Pref Intake with q 780 Holley, that's a carb Gizmo. It had a 9" with 2.75 gears and I changed them to 3.25 posi. I used it for towing a 18', 2,100#, dual axle auto trailer with a 3300# car on the auto trailer, didn't want Gizmo to assume it was on top of the LTD. Never had a problem.
wow, if that is a luxury shift. I really concern what people are thinking back that days....
So another question, the high speed cam screw and high speed cam, When they contact, they should be a little tight, or slide on is good enough?
 

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Check out this block on you tube
Richard Holdener he's got junk yard 302w and fitted all sorts of combos on dyno stock heads gt40 gt40 p alloys worth a look
 

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wow, if that is a luxury shift. I really concern what people are thinking back that days....
So another question, the high speed cam screw and high speed cam, When they contact, they should be a little tight, or slide on is good enough?
Not sure what you are talking about.
 

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Check out this block on you tube
Richard Holdener he's got junk yard 302w and fitted all sorts of combos on dyno stock heads gt40 gt40 p alloys worth a look
You can build a 1000 HP 302, not a problem, just bring money. But it's uses are very limited as is it's life span. Just saying with that heavy of car, more cubic inch is needed for what he's looking for. Besides, by the time you put enough money in the 302, a more cub 300HP 351W is easy to have. Plus the more TQ that goes with it. And he doesn't have to really change anything to put it in there.
Personally if it was mine, 460, C-6 3.50 posi, get rid of the 5MPH bumper garbage and have them rewelded to fit closer to the body. It would look much better. Those were the worse bumpers they ever made. When I want to haul ass, I don't make 2 trips.
 

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300/4.9 was in a 50,000 lb dump. It's not abt cubes - entirely.
I have an old "Super Ford" mag that Bill Elliott back in 95 took a 3,600lbs, up graded to 95 specs, 72 Gran Torino (Boss 429 engine) that David Pearson used in NASCAR (Grand National back then) for a little drive around Talladega one day. When Bill got done driving it, he got out of the car and he was shaking. He said "to have that kind of power. You don't spend a lap getting up to speed, you are up to speed by the 2nd turn". Touch the gas and it's gone.
The only substitute for cubic inches is more cubic inches.
 

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300/4.9 was in a 50,000 lb dump. It's not abt cubes - entirely.
Can someone please explain how the subject changed to the 300/4.9 Ford six cylinder weren't we discussing a 302/4.95L(5L) v8 Ford engine and what is "abt"? I try googling but American Ballet Theatre (ABT), ABT Electronics......
 
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