[bangingears]

I am in the process of building a C4 and was wondering how to remove the govenor set-up? I have a manuel trans-brake valve body so its no longer needed and would like to save some weight. Thanks

 

[daveg419]

REMOVE TAILSHAFT....REMOVE FOUR BOLTS THAT ARE ATTACHED TO GONENOR...WA LA...

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Not Wa La... Ka Blam!

There it is...

 

[PaulS1950]

Save weight? the governor weighs a few ounces, the tubes that go to it maybe 1/2 ounce. The vacuum modulator won't be needed either so you should remove it and just plug the hole - it weighs more than the governor. (you will probably do that anyway)
Seriously though, the spare change in your pocket weighs more than the governor.

 

[Mario428]

On my C-4 there is a snap ring holding the park gear in place so I removed the govenor transfer assembly( the 10 lb chuck of cast iron.

) from the tailshaft.
I then cut down the 5 lb cast iron housing that also transfers fluid to the govenor so it barely holds the park pawl pin and locates the tailshaft housing.
Took the governoe transfer tubes out and drilled and tapped the holes to block them off.
Several pounds of useless cast iron hit the floor and rotating weight went down as a bonus.

 

[PaulS1950]

Removing the governor support will take a couple of pounds and cutting the distribution sleeve down to 1/2 inch would save another pound so I can see where that is worth some hp. That all would require disassembly of the transmission and tail shaft. That is a bit more work than the six bolts that hold the extension housing and the four bolts that hold the governor. You did a lot of work to get rid of that weight - congrats! You could have left the park gear and pawl assembly out too if it was a race only car - no need for park as long as you have a good park brake. That would have given you the weight of the gear, a couple of pounds with the pawl and park linkage you might have left off a total of 3 pounds. That is like adding another .3 hp to the engine or a total of 6 pounds adding the governor parts and park parts which is like adding .6 hp. (every ten pounds is equal to 1 hp)

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PaulS1950 on 9/28/06 7:22pm ]</font>

 

[gregaust]

Here's one i did.I didn't plug tthe holes like Mario since they were blocked at the valvebody.Machined down the governor ring section to use as a spacer too.

 

[PaulS1950]

gregaust,
Why did you use the spacer? There is no thrust on the park gear and the snap ring will hold it. I notice you left the park assy intact - it must spend some time on the street.... That plug for the modulator; How is it made? Can't make out much detail - most of it is inside.
Nice machine work - do you do your own machining?

 

[Mario428]

On 2006-09-28 04:20, PaulS1950 wrote:
You could have left the park gear and pawl assembly out too if it was a race only car - no need for park as long as you have a good park brake.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PaulS1950 on 9/28/06 7:22pm ]</font>

The park brake peices hit the floor of the shop long before the govenor parts in the tranny did.

My output shaft has a retaining clip between the park pawl and the govenor spacer so the spacer got tossed completly.

Greg I will have to take a pic of my housing but I think you left far too much of it.

 

[clevelandstyle]

Yeah, I cut my G housing quite a bit more than that. I also use an aluminum park gear with roller bearings so it doesn't gald.

Now that's trick!

Who needs a stinking E brake?

 

[gregaust]

Ok then.This was the 1st one i left the governor off.Yes it is to be used on the street ,manual valve body obviously and fitted to a BA falcon turbo 6 cyl ,looking to make in the area of 500RWHP.
I left the sleeve on there just to make sure everything stays in place as per stock. It is for a customer so i just want to make sure everything stays in place but yes i do agree it could be left off. The sleeve is the original governor sleeve machined right down.
Paul i do all my own machining. Looking now i could cut a lot more off the sleeve..
That plug in the modulator is actually made from an old modulator,the can part cut off. The hole in the metal base left from modulator is welded up and machined back smooth. The stock o'ring fits up and all is retained by a little tab with thread tapped in case for allen bolt. There is no valve fitted in the modulator bore. I will see i think i have a better pic...

 

[gregaust]

 

[gregaust]

Here you go Paul.

 

[gregaust]

Paul here's that plug

 

[PaulS1950]

Good use for old modulators! I even have a few around - some screw-in and some push-in. Is that a panel clip holding it in place?
I wonder if that takes more or less time to make a plug that way or by turning one on the lathe from aluminum and sticking an o-ring on it like I do. I get the aluminum for scrap price at a local airplane manufacturer's surplus outlet (Boeing Surplus). I make plugs for the dipstick tube hole from the same stuff. Its real soft but machines easily - no idea what the alloy is.
Paul

 

[gregaust]

I was going to make an alloy plug too but tryed this.Was pretty easy..The clip was a little one i had did the job..

 

[PaulS1950]

If you left a tab on the modulator when you cut it you would have a built in clip or tab to bolt it down with.
Paul