Cerium Oxide looks a lot like Talcum Powder and all I did was cover EVERYTHING you don't want spattered with it then simply dribble or squirt water from a lab wash bottle onto your buffer pad then sprinkle on the Cerium Oxide!!
Start the buffer on S-L-O-W speed against the scratched glass and increase speed as splattering allows......you'll figger it out pretty fast!! Run the buffer much like you would buffing your car and over a large area to avoid a bad "wave" in the glass!!
Continue adding water as the polishing heat generated dries it out pretty fast......continue adding water and Cerium Oxide while polishing until the scratch is gone....that's about it but the cleanup can be a BEAR since the Cerium Oxide and fine glass slurry will be pretty tough to wipe/wash away and that is why you will need to cover everything you don't want spattered with towels.....you will see pretty fast!!:tup:
Please report how ya did and if you cannot find the Oxide I can send ya some...let me know!!
I did one many years ago after watching a pro do it. First is how deep. He said if you can only feel it with your fingernail, you can get it out OK, but if you fingernail can catch on it - take it to a pro. Second, never let the polisher stroke along the length of the scratch, or it will just make it deeper and take more to get it out. Third, drag the 'toe' of the pad toward you along the scratch, but then push it back on the heel. This makes it cut across the scratch one direction and then the opposite. Last, the larger area you do, the less it will warp your vision or be as noticeable, but it also takes longer.
While the pro used an inline air file and some kind of coarser compound to do the initial cut and area blending, I did not have cohones that large and so it took me about twice as long. Though only just over an hour on a 6" scratch, I blended most of that side. My hands ached the next day, and my back was complaining from leaning also. I've seen the compound at the body shops, but got mine from the local glass installer.